Mazda Oem Coils are crap! BHR Ignition I guess.....
05-17-2011, 01:08 PM
#103
There are some flaws in your assumption too.
1. Making the bracket lighter.
Why would you go through a retooling (expensive) to remove weight? About an ounce total weight savings. For better performance and improved gas mileage? What would you use the removed metal for? Pachinko slugs?
I think, assume, the bean counters would not go for that.
2. Moisture build up.
Why would you make a hole that could possibly allow moisture to enter under the base of the coil. And pool on the underside of the coil where it is not open. Remember the coil is rectangular and the hole is round.
If there is a stain on the bottom of the coil in the shape of the area where the coil is not exposed due to the hole. A negative image of what is currently happening. Then your assumption would be correct.
But the only logical conclusion is that the hole is there for heat dissipation.
1. Making the bracket lighter.
Why would you go through a retooling (expensive) to remove weight? About an ounce total weight savings. For better performance and improved gas mileage? What would you use the removed metal for? Pachinko slugs?
I think, assume, the bean counters would not go for that.
2. Moisture build up.
Why would you make a hole that could possibly allow moisture to enter under the base of the coil. And pool on the underside of the coil where it is not open. Remember the coil is rectangular and the hole is round.
If there is a stain on the bottom of the coil in the shape of the area where the coil is not exposed due to the hole. A negative image of what is currently happening. Then your assumption would be correct.
But the only logical conclusion is that the hole is there for heat dissipation.
05-17-2011, 01:40 PM
#104
Have to bear in mind they're getting a lot more stick on our buggy than in the standard car, more heat in the engine bay, more revs, wet mud and the occasional trek through a stream/riverbed, but we were killing a set every 5-6 months. Insulation was breaking down.
Had no problems since fitting the magnecors.
Had no problems since fitting the magnecors.
05-17-2011, 02:42 PM
#105
They are too expensive and I already change my plugs monthly.
If someone were to suggest that I would make more power with a set, I'd try it out, but no one is making that claim.
The OE "beam" style plugs have ALWAYS (in my experience, and I've seen hundreds of them) been correctly gapped right out of the box.
05-17-2011, 02:47 PM
#106
Wow this goes on for a while. Bottom line is really, if you like what you got, keep it. What one likes depends on what one thinks is important.
#1 for me is reliability. This perhaps comes from my aviation days where bad things happen when the engine quits. But my own use of the RX includes late-night driving in Detroit, often with a sweet young model/actress person with. Bad things can happen if my car engine quits in the wrong place too. It continues to amaze me that some in these pages show up and neg the group experience that they are a part of. The group experience wrt the stock coils is not a positive one. Some, perhaps most, have no grips with the OEM's and that's fine. However if the group experience is practically devoid of BHR coil failures, and if one's goal is to maximize reliability, is not the implied conclusion obvious?
It also continues to amaze me that somehow "racing" (which seems to include 45 second autocross runs), is thought of as some kind of ultimate test. While in some ways it undoubtedly is, overall, that's utter nonsense. In an environment of prolonged idling, air-conditioning, traffic jams, extremes of heat/cold, salt, rain, sand, potholes, and perhaps most importantly, a very low ratio of maintenence hours to running hours, the street car is in a more challanging environment. The word from the street is, BHR is more reliable on the street, so I do BHR.
As far as the cost, I certainly empathized with any lack-of-funds argument as I have lived that game for long periods before. Good, Fast, Cheap: pick any two. Cheap can be good but often takes a disproportionate amount of time and the results can be no better than with what one started in the first place. I'm lucky enough at the moment to be able to spend a little extra here and there to buy both time savings (maybe I'll never have to do another coil replacement) and peace of mind. Having once owned 3 $1500 vehicles just to have one available in decent running order, I understand that a $500 price tag may be too high for many. HP gains? I don't care as long as I'm not losing any.
That's why I roll with not only the BHR coils + wires, but BHR fuel pump, Mazmart water pump and oil pressure kit, stock air filter, D-specs, spare tire, and a bunch of other little things. I don't want the hassle of unexpected component failure or having to dig into the car any more than necessary. And I certainly don't want a dead or dying engine in downtown Detroit at 2 am.
YMMV
#1 for me is reliability. This perhaps comes from my aviation days where bad things happen when the engine quits. But my own use of the RX includes late-night driving in Detroit, often with a sweet young model/actress person with. Bad things can happen if my car engine quits in the wrong place too. It continues to amaze me that some in these pages show up and neg the group experience that they are a part of. The group experience wrt the stock coils is not a positive one. Some, perhaps most, have no grips with the OEM's and that's fine. However if the group experience is practically devoid of BHR coil failures, and if one's goal is to maximize reliability, is not the implied conclusion obvious?
It also continues to amaze me that somehow "racing" (which seems to include 45 second autocross runs), is thought of as some kind of ultimate test. While in some ways it undoubtedly is, overall, that's utter nonsense. In an environment of prolonged idling, air-conditioning, traffic jams, extremes of heat/cold, salt, rain, sand, potholes, and perhaps most importantly, a very low ratio of maintenence hours to running hours, the street car is in a more challanging environment. The word from the street is, BHR is more reliable on the street, so I do BHR.
As far as the cost, I certainly empathized with any lack-of-funds argument as I have lived that game for long periods before. Good, Fast, Cheap: pick any two. Cheap can be good but often takes a disproportionate amount of time and the results can be no better than with what one started in the first place. I'm lucky enough at the moment to be able to spend a little extra here and there to buy both time savings (maybe I'll never have to do another coil replacement) and peace of mind. Having once owned 3 $1500 vehicles just to have one available in decent running order, I understand that a $500 price tag may be too high for many. HP gains? I don't care as long as I'm not losing any.
That's why I roll with not only the BHR coils + wires, but BHR fuel pump, Mazmart water pump and oil pressure kit, stock air filter, D-specs, spare tire, and a bunch of other little things. I don't want the hassle of unexpected component failure or having to dig into the car any more than necessary. And I certainly don't want a dead or dying engine in downtown Detroit at 2 am.
YMMV
Last edited by HiFlite999; 05-17-2011 at 02:53 PM.
05-17-2011, 04:21 PM
#107
It is the ignitor that fails.
It is virtually impossible to "overheat" the coil portion of the coil pack. You could put a MAP gas torch on it and it would continue to operate normally until you melted it.
The ignitor is on top of the coil pack, so lets start a new round of guessing.
05-17-2011, 04:29 PM
#108
There are some flaws in your assumption too.
1. Making the bracket lighter.
Why would you go through a retooling (expensive) to remove weight? About an ounce total weight savings. For better performance and improved gas mileage? What would you use the removed metal for? Pachinko slugs?
I think, assume, the bean counters would not go for that.
2. Moisture build up.
Why would you make a hole that could possibly allow moisture to enter under the base of the coil. And pool on the underside of the coil where it is not open. Remember the coil is rectangular and the hole is round.
If there is a stain on the bottom of the coil in the shape of the area where the coil is not exposed due to the hole. A negative image of what is currently happening. Then your assumption would be correct.
But the only logical conclusion is that the hole is there for heat dissipation.
1. Making the bracket lighter.
Why would you go through a retooling (expensive) to remove weight? About an ounce total weight savings. For better performance and improved gas mileage? What would you use the removed metal for? Pachinko slugs?
I think, assume, the bean counters would not go for that.
2. Moisture build up.
Why would you make a hole that could possibly allow moisture to enter under the base of the coil. And pool on the underside of the coil where it is not open. Remember the coil is rectangular and the hole is round.
If there is a stain on the bottom of the coil in the shape of the area where the coil is not exposed due to the hole. A negative image of what is currently happening. Then your assumption would be correct.
But the only logical conclusion is that the hole is there for heat dissipation.
05-19-2011, 04:45 AM
#113
Central Valley RX8
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^ very true.
BigBacon - I'm not sure who produces the coils for Mazda, but the advance auto ones are made by BWD where as Autozone sells coil made by Duralast. Whether or not they are the same item is not clear. IMHO all because one look and functions the same, doesn't make it equal.
BigBacon - I'm not sure who produces the coils for Mazda, but the advance auto ones are made by BWD where as Autozone sells coil made by Duralast. Whether or not they are the same item is not clear. IMHO all because one look and functions the same, doesn't make it equal.
05-19-2011, 06:45 AM
#114
^ very true.
BigBacon - I'm not sure who produces the coils for Mazda, but the advance auto ones are made by BWD where as Autozone sells coil made by Duralast. Whether or not they are the same item is not clear. IMHO all because one look and functions the same, doesn't make it equal.
BigBacon - I'm not sure who produces the coils for Mazda, but the advance auto ones are made by BWD where as Autozone sells coil made by Duralast. Whether or not they are the same item is not clear. IMHO all because one look and functions the same, doesn't make it equal.
Duralast is Autozone's "brand", same idea as BWD/Intermotor. they buy(import) stuff from other bigger OEM, pack it with their own box to sell them.
One thing interesting is that, the coils from BWD came from Japan, while Duralast(just online reports) coils came from Taiwan.
)
05-19-2011, 07:35 PM
#116
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"Mazda has cut holes in the new coil mount bracket from 2009 on. I assume they were trying to remove the heat from the coil by providing more air circulation under the coil itself.
So the issue that Mazda sees is the factory coil itself is overheating."
and
"I should have mentioned the holes are directly under the coil. 4 holes about 15mm round."
I'm missing the 4 holes?
05-19-2011, 07:44 PM
#117
Thanks nycgps, but if this is for an 09+ why does Easy_E1 say:
"Mazda has cut holes in the new coil mount bracket from 2009 on. I assume they were trying to remove the heat from the coil by providing more air circulation under the coil itself.
So the issue that Mazda sees is the factory coil itself is overheating."
and
"I should have mentioned the holes are directly under the coil. 4 holes about 15mm round."
I'm missing the 4 holes?
"Mazda has cut holes in the new coil mount bracket from 2009 on. I assume they were trying to remove the heat from the coil by providing more air circulation under the coil itself.
So the issue that Mazda sees is the factory coil itself is overheating."
and
"I should have mentioned the holes are directly under the coil. 4 holes about 15mm round."
I'm missing the 4 holes?
See part number - this is the description :
Electrical - Ignition system - Ignition coil - Bracket Bracket - 2009-11 2009 - 2011
05-20-2011, 08:19 AM
#120
One more thing to note is that.
If you buy BWD/Intermotor coils from Advance Auto Parts, you get a Lifetime warranty. So you can just "swap it" whenever you feel like it. Sounds like abusing the system but hey, thats what "LIFETIME" warranty is for anyway
BUT if you get it at other places say, RockAuto, its only 1 year and 12K miles.
As for Autozone/Duralast, its 2 years warranty, still not bad.
If you buy BWD/Intermotor coils from Advance Auto Parts, you get a Lifetime warranty. So you can just "swap it" whenever you feel like it. Sounds like abusing the system but hey, thats what "LIFETIME" warranty is for anyway
BUT if you get it at other places say, RockAuto, its only 1 year and 12K miles.
As for Autozone/Duralast, its 2 years warranty, still not bad.
05-20-2011, 07:03 PM
#121
Rotary Power!
Thread Starter
Jesus, didn't kno my thread would cause a huge argument. I wasnt asking for help with my car besides asking for opinions if the BHR kit is the best kit. And i found out it's ls2 Yukon coils, and everything i searched pretty much summed up getting a BHR ignition kit. Well, I actually am not getting a BHR kit, I'm getting a custom bracket, plug n play harness, msd wires, and utilizing the same ls2 coils. Everything should be on the way and I'll let u guys kno the results. I never dynod the car as I jus recently bought it, but I been calculating mileage and I've been getting 15/21. I hope to see 18/24 after the swap.
05-20-2011, 09:21 PM
#123
Rotary Power!
Thread Starter
13?! Damn that's worse than my FD. U must have a foot made out of lead. :/ I get 15/21 on my Fd with boltons. I was pretty shocked with my rx8 making the same fuel economy as my Fd. But things should change with new wires, ls2 coils and new Ngk plugs.
05-20-2011, 10:14 PM
#124
I was getting 8mpg on the track a few years ago, then last year it went to 5-6 on the track.
After BHR I couldn't get less than 10-11 on the track, but I've always gotten 23 mpg @ 80 mph on the HWY.
After BHR I couldn't get less than 10-11 on the track, but I've always gotten 23 mpg @ 80 mph on the HWY.