40w8

^+1,

I put in the BHR at about the same miles, and plugs will go in when I get back to my car.

I never had any idea that it needed coils except by reading here since the car was very smooth, but my scanguage started reading 269 hp instead of 259 hp as the top number after the BHR.

Flashwing

There seems to be a few individuals who are insistent on going against the grain even when it means more risk, more money or more frustration. This is the single most scrutinized product for the RX8 and no doubt one of the most widely owned. Despite that, some refuse to see the merits of the product and will do anything to avoid using it.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Meh, the product speaks for itself as far as I am concerned. My kit has close to 30k on it. I had three sets of stock coils (all paid for by warranty and extended warranty) in 96,000 miles. I installed the kit on a fresh reman so I cannot speak of any power gains but I the kit does what it is supposed to do reliably (along with everything else I have purchased from BHR).

It is what it is, some products are good and some are bad. This one is superb.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

lol, been running the race plugs for so long I forgot what the OE plugs looked like, my bad

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Oh, the "beam" plugs?

Those don't really "gap" well since the beam will snap off if your move it - it is cast, not forged or cold-rolled.
The beam goes away pretty quickly in FI applications, so it isn't a good idea, anyway.
The trailings are in the same boat, but there are less options for an exit path for the beam.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

I must be the only person around here that thinks the OEM coils are fine with a decent set of leads on them ....

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

never had a problem setting the racing plug gap using the basic tool (generic pic for demonstration purposes only, not the plug being discussed) they have to be gapped, nowhere near the proper gap as delivered



rather peculiar that you are alone with not finding power or having issues with FI on them, they have been the professional rotary racing standard for forever and still are

Brettus you are only alone in not having read the thread before posting

CrazyJek

25% of my starts are somewhat hard. Some sound "free flowing" which im pretty sure is bad.

Anywayz.. i just hit 30k and the factory original plugs and coils are still on the car. Car is 7 years old. Idle can be a bit rough with a few low dips here and there. There is definitely a noticeable shortness of breath between 5.8k and 8k rpms. Threw a few misfires last year with some downshifts into third around 65-75mph.

I ordered the BHR kit as i have done so much reading on it over the years even before i owned this car. IM REALLY LOOKING FORWARD TO IT. Unfortunately, their supply chain screwed them and i gotta wait an extra week >.< lol oh well. No biggie really since i didnt get all my other mods in the mail yet that im gonna do at the same time for convenience. Bumper has to come off for fogs and AEM intake, and intake has to come out for ignition.

All these issues im having now started happening around 18k-20k miles anywayz. But the last 10k miles i put on the car i was low on funds and saving for blizzaks. Im pretty confident that this kit will make me a very happy customer. If it starts good, idles strong, and doesnt have a dead spot anymore... then im satisfied. If they last me a few years without issue then i will be forever satisfied.

Cheers.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

got me .

Serves me right for not keeping up with the normal forum day to day BS

PhillipM

The stock leads do break down from the heat pretty fast

Shiny set of Magnecors on there now, no problems ever since!

Leandrys

I had the magnecors when my kit failed in 1500 KMs... :'(

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Does the wires really matter that much? maybe I should put my RB set back in ?

<---- stock coils works fine for NYCGPS ... might still try BHR some day.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

I'd say the wires matter just as much as the coils. Greated coils in the world won't fire your plugs if there isn't a solid set of wires between them.

The stock wires aren't all that great. But having fantastic wires attached to a set of failing coils won't suddenly produce a better spark.


That being said, I'd suggest the theory that having upgraded wires on OEM coils allows the OEM coils to degrade much farther before "failing". Like if you call the "failure point" of the OEM coils where it can't transmit the current sufficiently, and it could be from excess wire resistance. Eliminate that problem and the coil can degrade much farther before it can't push the current through the wire.


It doesn't magically make the OEM coil better, just enables it to "last longer" before you have to replace it.


Just my theory.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

well I took my RB wires out cuz at one time I had some issue with "morons" at dealership, so I just swap it with a brand new set of OE wires (cheap anyway)

Its been I think 20-30K miles since. maybe I should swap it back to RB on my next oil change (the RB wires had less than 5K miles I remember)

Speedy400

Interesting discussion here on the coils.
I'm wondering if heat, age or both contributes to the premature failure of the coils?

If it is mostly heat, I'm wondering if heat is getting INTO the coils from the engine OR if the heat is internal to the coils and is not being conducted well enough to the 'cooler' mounting surface?

If the coils could benefit from having better heat transfer to the mounting, would a film of heat sink compound on the mounting surface keep the coils slightly cooler and therefore last longer?

The 'white spots' that occur on all coils apparently are the hot spots and are also the center of the mounting surface.

Any thoughts?

Here 2005, 20k miles. No problems.

Maries8

FWIW, my first OEM coils were replaced after about 45,000 miles, the second set (about to be) after 30,000 miles. But both were showing symptoms long before being replaced, probably after 20,000 or so.

PhillipM

Have to bear in mind they're getting a lot more stick on our buggy than in the standard car, more heat in the engine bay, more revs, wet mud and the occasional trek through a stream/riverbed, but we were killing a set every 5-6 months. Insulation was breaking down.

Had no problems since fitting the magnecors.

PhillipM

I've mounted ours on thermal paste just to help them out a little...uses little computer memory heatsinks on the top mounted with AS ceramique.


TBH, if I had the money spare, I'd buy a couple of sets of BHR's anyway 'cause I'm hoping to supercharge it soon, but I've got some gears and a LSD to save up for so it's tough

Easy_E1

iTrader: (2)

Mazda has cut holes in the new coil mount bracket from 2009 on. I assume they were trying to remove the heat from the coil by providing more air circulation under the coil itself.
So the issue that Mazda sees is the factory coil itself is overheating.

Speedy400

I haven't looked at the mounting surface under mine yet. Does it look like that's something that's possible to do on existing units?

That also suggests that the thermal paste wouldn't help and that Mazda's solution is to provide more air circulation around the coils.

Easy_E1

iTrader: (2)

I should have mentioned the holes are directly under the coil. 4 holes about 15mm round.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

This is the classic forum 1+1 = 3 thought process. Why not assume they are making the part lighter and using the hole slugs that were removed to economically make another part from them? You openly made an assumption then tried to label it as a fact from Mazda in the last sentence. Another assumption would be they did this so moisture would not condense between the bottom of the coil over time, resulting in a white residue buildup that then gets falsely labeled as a failed coil (yeah, that never happened) when in fact they are fine.

You really have no idea at all why they did or didn't do this.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

In the undeserved defense of the general mass of humanity, 1+1=3 is hardly restricted to just forums.


And no one is immune to it.

Easy_E1

iTrader: (2)

You really have no idea at all why they did or didn't do this either.

Oh Team I am so sorry for my incorrect wording making Mazda out to have done this specifically for heat dissipation. I made a logical guess as to why Mazda did this to the plate. Here let me correct my self.

So the issue that Mazda POSSIBLY sees is the factory coil itself is overheating.
Does that make you happy?

dynamho

Thanks for this info.
The forum should really have "Thanks" and "Groan" buttons.