surfnlow

I have taken the switch off and reseated it without tension on it. I have the sohn on so space is real tight and the motor got a little warm on me. I have noticed now that it warmed up, it is having a bit of a hard time idling. I am thinking o2 sensor. I am going to unhook them to see if that helps.

logalinipoo

The o2 sensor wont cause the limp mode. Your maf and fuel trims will help determine a lot. Maf should be 5.5-7 and fuel trims under 10 at the most.

surfnlow

MAF is good. At idle it is at 6.2. I am pretty sure I just flooded it. I have an extra set of plugs, but I got dinner, homework and gotta get the kids down. I guess I will get back at it tomorrow after work. I can't find the fuel trims in the Torque app, so I am going to look for a different app that might work better. Is there one that is best for the 8?

surfnlow

just found my air pump fuse blown.

logalinipoo

There is a thread about the torque app. Ive never used it. The blown fuse will be the reason for your 0420 code i bet.

surfnlow

Agreed about the fuse. I will be getting a new one tomorrow. Still doesn't fix the limp mode problem, but it is a step in the right direction. I am also going to clean out the TB to see if that helps. I'll post with my results.

surfnlow

Still haven't found the correct position. I actually have 2 questions. The switch can go directly on with no pressure on the saw arm or I can put tension on the saw arm by turning the switch clockwise before sliding it on and then turning it counterclockwise after it is in place. Which is correct? My second question is do I need to do the 20 brake stomp after every reset, or is the batt disco enough?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

I think it had the spring tension on it....and the battery disconnect is enough



It has been so long since I played with this I am having a difficult time remembering

logalinipoo

Mine had very little tension in it. I can not put it directly on. I have to give line it up then give it about 1/8 turn.

I'm not sure if you can install it upside down but the plug should be pointing down.

surfnlow

Which way did you turn it? Clock-wise or Counter Clock-wise?

surfnlow

Ok, I think I have it set right because I have no more smoke coming out. It is still running rich and still goes into limp mode. Still have the same codes too which is weird since I replaced the fuse. p0410 and p0506. Symptoms say vacuum leak or TB in my opinion. It won't through codes if the OMP is the problem, right? If that is the case, I think we can rule out the OMP. It runs rich even before it goes into limp mode after a reset. Fuel trims are not reading on my app. Do I need to leave it running for a period of time for the trims to set? It is a little harder to start, but I haven't replaced the plugs yet. I did notice that if I rev it, it stalls after letting my foot off the gas.

logalinipoo

First off do you have a new engine with old plugs?

Im not trying to say its the omp. Actually my concern is it is now both and youll have hell getting them straightened out. Maybe buy a tb off ebay and then try it.

Rich or lean, or smoke does not indicate the omp switch. That just tells the car if your omp is working right or not. The new engine probably just got done burning off assembly lube and settled in a little.

Im guessing your engine is fairly cold when your talking about it being rich. That is by design it goes around 11 afr. Then the air pump blows and causes it to read lean. You probably blew your fuse again or the air pump is bad. But the gutted cat is the cause of the 0410. That will never go away unless you program the car or replace the cat.

logalinipoo

clockwise. When i put it on the plug points down and slightly forward. Then i roll the plug back to pointing mostly down. And put in screws. Then turn it all the way counter clockwies and adjust it about 1 mm at a time

surfnlow

I have 2 sets of plugs. I used the older ones for the fuel and oil priming and then switched them out after I was able to verify that the omp was pushing oil. I know it is because the reservoir has dropped since install and I have added more. The reason I mentioned the smoke is because the level has dropped again since then and I am going to have to add more soon. I am pretty sure that is fixed now mainly due to no blue smoke.

I can confirm that the engine ran fine when the apex seal failed. This meaning that the TB, omp and air pump were all working at the time it was disassembled and rebuilt. I used the 2 stroke amsoil oil I am using in the omp for the assembly, so it should be burnt off by now. I do have an extra air pump and I have tried to replace it, but that was before I noticed the fuse, so it could have been blown at that time.

For the first start, it idles high (around 1.5-2k) as should be expected, but I have gotten it to normal operating temp and it still smells rich. I pulled the hose off one of the lower ports of the intake and it did stall within a few secs, so I don't think it is a vacuum leak.

So that leads me to believe it is still the omp that I just can't seem to get right or it is the TB. I have verified the MAF runs at about 7afr at idle, so I am fairly sure it is working. I know it is a stupid question, but would the ess have anything to do with it? I only ask to make sure all the bases are covered. I did clean it while it was apart of course.

If the cat is the problem for the p0410, would it matter if the o2 sensor is connected? Mine is right now, but for the sake of troubleshooting and all.

Thanks for the help! This is my first rotary, but I am no stranger to mechanics. The wife is getting tired of it sitting in the garage and we are down to one vehicle now, so it is pretty important that I get it running soon!

logalinipoo

Ok thats a good idea with the plugs. If it was the ess it probably would not start. Do a brake stomp reset for the new engine also. It will not reset with the battery removal.

Im pretty sure the smoke has nothing to do with the switch at all. All the switch really does it tell the oil pump if it is working or not. It does not control the oil flow amount.

It could easily be a wiring issue that happened from removing and installing stuff. Something had to blow that fuse. Possibly doing work without disconnecting the battery? Or a short?

It will always smell rich without a cat. A tune will help some. The o2 sensor does not cause limp mode. It will just put you into open loop mode which means its not trying to hit a target afr its just going off of calculated.

surfnlow

I I think I enough to go on for now. I do have an extra temp sensor so I could give that a try I guess, but I have seen the temp gauge climb so I doubt it. I am trying not to spend any more money then I have to with x-mas coming and all so I want to make sure the part I replace is the issue. Is there a way to test the omp and TB? Should I leave it running for 15 mins or so to see if it will learn the fuel trims? I am going to pull the plugs today and blow out the chamber to see if I can get it running a little stronger. The weird part about it is that it starts a little slow, but once it is started, it will rev great for 10 secs and then off the limp mode again. Sometimes I have even turned it off and back on without reseting the batt and limp mode is deactivated again. Another 10 secs and it is back. It is driving me nuts, because none of the symptoms fit except the OMP or TB. Since I am popping the P0506, I am leaning more toward the TB.

surfnlow

P0506 seems to be gone now. I don't need to reset the batt to get it out of limp mode. all I have to do is turn the key all the way off. I am over it being the TB. It revs to good for the 10 secs and doesn't give me much trouble starting. if I don't rev it at all, it will stay at a constant idle. Once I start reving it a bit, it will stall. Seems like it is choking itself out, like to much air or something. I know it is the omp, but I am still trying to adjust it. I have gone from one end to the other a couple of times, but like I said, I know it was working before I did the rebuild. Is there any reason the sohn adapter would cause this? Any other suggestions?

logalinipoo

No the sohn would not affect it at all. Even if you removed the pump and ziptied it to the firewall it would not cause limp mode.

I don't have ant better ideas. Except remove the switch and test it like i described before.

surfnlow

I found a couple of other car forums mentioning something about airbags causing limp mode. Mine is a salvage and I have taken out the blown airbags. They were in when I had it running and blew the apex seal. that is the only real "change" I made, with the exception of the engine rebuild of course. I did have to replace one of the oil lines due to some breakage, but I made sure the diameter was the same. Just curious if anyone has had an issue with that while eliminating the airbags?

surfnlow

You both hit the nail on the head! I bought a used MOP and in worked! It is running smooth now. I want to say thanks for all the help everyone has given me over the past year. This is the first time I have gotten to drive her since Nov 2013. It is so great to finally have her running. I am still getting some stalling at stop signs, but I am sure it will get better over time. One last thing though; Is there anything I can do help it stop stalling quicker? Thanks again for the help, you guys are a life saver!

logalinipoo

Rev it to 4500 hold it for 30 seconds lower it to 3500 for 30, 2500 for 30, 1500 for 30, idle for 30.

Thats the best thing for my car after a ecu reset. And ill offer to buy your other omp. I think yours is still good and i need a switch. Mine is superglued togther.

surfnlow

Thanks for the info. I am still breaking in the engine, so I am going to have to give it a little time to break in. I have read it many times on here, so I am just hoping it takes as little time as possible. I am just looking for ways that might help the idle. Other than that, it runs great! If you want the MOP, you can have it for $50+shipping. Not looking to profit, since I am not sure if it works or not. once I pulled it off, I sprayed a little CRC on the paint, and the white line on the adapter was about 1-2 mm off the line on the pump. Up to you if you want it, but I can't say it works or not. I can tell you that the oil level dropped in my canister while it was connected and being tested.

logalinipoo

Well theres different point of views on break in. My preference will get flamed so i wont even say it. Ill take the omp. Ill pm you my info when i can get my computer online.

reni04

2004 rx8 .Limp mode came on and had to replace coil pac s and did the wires and plugs while i was there and problem solved on that one. The culprit was the OMP as well.Replaced OMP(expensive) plugs,wires and coil pacs runs great.

surfnlow

Yeah, it was the OMP. I have not had a problem driving it since. I am however having an issue with the idle. It will start up every time with no problem, but after it warms up, the idle will surge between 1500 to 700 a few times before finally dying. I can start it right back up and it is the ssame situation. If I am driving it, I have to keep my foot on the gas a little while shifting into neutral when stopping. It is a pain in the ***. I am thinking SSV or #1 O2. MAF has been cleaned. Scrubbing out the TB next. I happen to have an extra O2 so I am going to try that also.