Bindon

So I have all the bolts undone, and the shock unbolted at the top and bottom

But for the life of me, I cant figure out how to walk the shock and spring out of the wheel well!
I pull the bottom of the shock towards the rotor and it slides down a bit into a lower area of the lower A arm, then the threads on the top pop out of the holes, and its free from all braces. This is where it gets wierd. youd think you could pull the shock right out, but no! the seat of the shock (where the spring sits) is hitting the upper control arm... so am I doing this completely wrong?? Im using a diy, but im thinking that because I have S-TECHS it may be harder to walk it out because the spring is harder.


SO maybe ill get a spring compressor and do it that way?

Please help, my cars sitting on jackstands

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

You need to remove the upper A-arm bolts on the front to get it out..you also need to have both sides removed and drooping...or remove the sway end-link on one side.

Then you can get it out

Bindon

so unbolt the entire A arm??/

How does unbolting the sway end link help?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Sway bar will keep the lower control arm from drooping as far as possible.......If you are careful you don't need to...let both sides droop and it will come out. If you do 1 side at a time...loosen the end link

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

you unbolt the upper A-arm from the two sets suspension bushing tabs on the inner sidewall, this lets you swing the top of the shock assembly outside the wheelwell where you can then extract it out, it's pretty easy once you see how it's done, you don't have to pull the end link if you have the shocks unbolted on both sides

wait until you get to the rear ...

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Also....undo the headlight adjuster switch...if you break it they are expensive

( front and rear drivers side)

When you do the rears undo the top rear trailing arm and not the rear.....then it won't be as hard on your alignment settings...ie//you can at least drive it to get an alignment

he part I found difficult was adjusting the coilovers themselves to get the proper preload and ride height. They came setup too low for what i wanted. When you set them...leave the preload the same and adjust the ride height only.

Bindon

for sure.

So right now, the car is completely jacked up (it was only on one side before) and both wheels are off.

Im waiting for the liquid wrench to work on the bottom bolt for the shock assembly on the other side.

It seems that the shock wont slide down as far now, because the upper A arm is lower.

So do you suggest remove the end links? will this make it easier ot play with?

Or should I unbolt the upper A arm, although, i cant see how this would help all that much.

Maybe im moving the shock in the wrong direction? do you guys slide the shock off the side of where its sitting (towards the front of the car) or do you pull it towards the disk to get it to slide into that groove??

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

You don't follow directions very well

Bindon

so ill undo the upper control arm, swing iit up, then slide the **** out, got it., will try it

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Undo the 2 bolts on the INSIDE of the A-arm Not the outboard Ball joint end

Read the above again....and if you follow our directions it will work...if not......

Well good luck! :D

Bindon

Phew those bolts are a ***** to get at. I loaded some more liquid wrench on, and im gonna go out and get a better set of metrics, I left my good set back at home.

While im out, any suggestions on a tool that would make it easier to get at those nuts?

Maybe a speed socket?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Use 6Pt 17MM socket...then you won't strip the nut/bolt. U can use 12 pt after you crack it to get better angles on the ratchet. U need a good length bar to loosen them the first time....esp cause of the salt corrosion in the winter

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

umm, the nuts on the inside for the upper control arm bushings are welded to the brackets, you have to undo the bolt heads on the outside ends of the bushings ... I just use a 1/2" ratchet, an 18" or 24" long one will give you a lot more leverage, and by all means only use 6-point sockets

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Nut/bolt on the shock...bolt on the A-arm Team...you must be a teacher

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

they say a picture is worth a thousand words, forgive me for being so wordy









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