seriously

 

Well, I don't know that it isn't a problem.
Its a symptom of something and I want to know what.

 

Considering many 13B owners would be happy to see your vacuum numbers, it's not a problem. It's easy to see what it is anyways but I'll let you get to that point on your own as you really do enjoy playing with things. That's a good thing though!

 

Yeah, but my motor is not bridge-ported.

PLEASE enlighten me!
I've given up at this point.
Its just not worth ripping any more of the vehicle up looking for it and I've already wasted enough time.

 

Way to leave me hanging, Fred!

 

what a c^*k tease.

 

hey jeff on your first post you where looking for leaks with propane? how is that process done? the only way i know to check for leaks is to fill the intercooler pipes with air, seal the pipe and listen for leaks...

 

STIG Obama?

Stupid Tourist In Government?

 

Don't start!

 

i was pulling your leg Jeff--unplugging the throttle body/(tps), the engine will shut off.
Maybe the dang thing just aint spinning fast enough to seal. Just like the oem oil pressure with 5/20w and oil temps of over 200 is supposed to be approx 52! Yea right.
where is our voltage regulator? i hate electrical stuff.
does your 2K vacuum go to the normal range and no fluctuations?
you are doing right --step by step.
olddragger

 

Actually, unplugging the TB will start and idle (poorly) on my vehicle.
Maybe that should be telling me something?
I dunno.
What is the "normal" vacuum at 2k RPM? In load or free-revving?

If it weren't sealing, the compression would be low.

The voltage regulator is actually software in the PCM. The hardware in the alternator is controlled by feedback.

I've tried 3 alternators.

 

foo77 had an issue with the maf connector wiring.. not that you have removed and reconnected the maf often.

where is that damn easy button?

beers

 

Its not a tuning/sensor issue.

 

 

did not say it was. check the wiring to the connector that attaches to the maf..

if it was tuning or sensor you would have found it by now.

beers

 

I'm at a rock steady 17" @ 870 ft elevation

wondering what the chances are that you get a good compression reading at lower cranking rpm, but have a dynamic sealing issues at the higher idle rpm

 

i dont really know what the normal 2k reading is with a rotary, but for a recip at a no load 2K its approx the same as at idle. what any fluctuations.
my car pre fi and after fi will not idle with the throttle body unconnected.--interesting.
maybe we need a 16 volt system?
olddragger

 

Unlikely that there is enough change in 500 RPM to negate 130+ PSI of compression.
Plus, it goes like a raped ape. It should be soggy as the RPMs rise if dynamic sealing were an issue.
Additionally, its been in tow engines, one of which had 47 miles on it when it was started and had the identical "problem" immediately.

No, this is something peripheral to the motor.

 

psh, you should be happy with 16 mm HG vaccuuum

if I got 16 I'd be so happy, but noooooo

 

try a different vacuum gauge?

idle is controlled by a stepper motor, it won't operate with the TB electrical disconnected

 

You running with, or without a cat?

 

Tried three. I guess I could try a fourth?

Yes, but the TB on the '8 is stopped 2% open when it is unpowered, so the car will idle, even if it is disconnected.

No CAT.

 

Have you tried swapping alternators?

 

Three of them.

 

- All of your engine's have done it.
- You have swapped alternators, etc - to test for various draw on the engine.

Things that have not changed on your car:
- Car PC
- Weather and Altitude
- Turbo?
- Water pump?
- PCM?


Add to the list; and see if we can narrow it down some.