Well, that didn't do it.
But now I have reason to read the electrical diagram for a minute before I go through the trouble of pulling the alternator belt.

 

sorry...

wow though... i've learned more in the last hour in the fsm than i have in weeks here....

i know how i'm gonna spend time in honduras

 

The FSM gives remarkable insight - if you have the patience.

I've read it like a novel.

 

Yeah - EVAP, MOP and JAB are all on valves, but the flow positively.
I blocked the EVAP entirely at one point, but that did nothing.

 

Y. Sry.
I txt w/ acro.

(Yeah. Sorry.
I speak in acronyms.)

 

That's for sure.
Actually, that is probably part of the problem here.
I haven't really been able to think linearly on this one - I get side-tracked.

I am going to go try running the car with the alternator wire disconnected and then the battery disconnected and see what happens.

 

Is it the Fourth of July already?

 

So, you want to celebrate by setting my car on fire?

 

take the tps off and crank the car and take a vacuum reading. if your vacuum is in the normal range then you have eliminated one system.
olddragger

 

my car has a vacuum reading of 15hg at idle too so I will be paying attention to this thread.

 

TPS? Throttle Position Sensor?
We don't have one.
You mean disconnect the throttle completely? What will that do?

 

It might (I suppose in theory), except no one else that is running this setup has lowered idle vacuum.
Really, if the turbine was restricting exhaust flow at only 6 g/sec, the car would stop running at WOT before I got to 4000 RPM.

 

I'm wondering about rotor sealing. Ultimately it is the movement of the rotors that is creating the vacuum. Iirc, the test for engine recall involved some type of vacuum measurement. It seemed curious at the time that it wasn't a compression test. I guess a seal might still be good for compression but have some wear that would show up as lower vacuum? I dunno how to verify. Throw some heavy premix at it? Intake ports with some carbon blockage? Seafoam time?

 

The motor read this way out-of-the box with only 47 miles on it.
I already did the OMP jacking to maximum (the Mazda check for compression/vacuum loss) and it made no difference.

 

throttle not closing right

 

Plus, the idle speed would go up.

 

Something sucks under your hood.

 

But, I am Captain Obvious!

 

 

 

Small hole in your wastegate actuator?? Solenoid?

Are your fuel trims normal at idle?

Something that transferred with 2 different engines right....

Did you figure out the High amperage draw?

 

WG actuator is cut off from its vacuum/boost source at idle by the solenoid.
The problem followed two motors.
I didn't discover where the draw was.
It started raining before I got a chance to play.
Fuel trims are rock-steady 0/0.

 

Brake booster??

 

Plugged it. No difference.
Same with EVAP, OMP and JAB.

 

Okay, maybe Cpt. Obvious here, but...

Doesn't this suggest there is no leak, otherwise trim would be stepping in? If so...

You've sort of ruled out engine seals. New engine rules out port problem.

What's left?