How to remove E-Shaft Bolt!
11-07-2009, 01:33 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
How to remove E-Shaft Bolt!
Can anyone help me find the way to remove the e-shaft bolt. I have oil leak and trying to replace the front main seal myself. I am stuck at the E-shaft bolt couldn't get it off. I have heated it up with the blow torch, make sure to secure the clutch with the 2x4. Just don't know how to get the bolt off without the e-shaft for turning. Anyone have done this before please help me out the some tips. Thanks
11-07-2009, 02:42 PM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Pitfall??? I follow madzatrix tip on anchor down the clutch. As far as big *** impact gun, the engine is in the car so i don't have enought room for the big gun.
11-07-2009, 07:51 PM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
No. the 2x4 is to wedge the clutch padle so all the stuff behind the pulley hub will stay in place and not fall off of it position. If this step is not perform, things can go wrong and that I may have to take the front cover off.
11-07-2009, 07:57 PM
#6
i have done this with the engine in the car . I jammed a crowbar into the holes in my act flywheel - not sure if you can do similar to std flywheel but if you got someone to jam the ring gear teeth with something it may work . There is actually a special tool for this but I have a feeling the gearbox needs to be removed to use it .
Then get a 1/2" drive socket and bar on the nut . Attach a long length of pipe to the bar and swing like f**k on it
Then get a 1/2" drive socket and bar on the nut . Attach a long length of pipe to the bar and swing like f**k on it
11-07-2009, 08:14 PM
#7
That is pretty much what I was thinking about Brettus.
I use a flywheel stopper to prevent the e-shaft from spinning when removing the flywheel nut.
Don't see why you couldn't do the same thing for the e-shaft nut.
Sucks to remove the transmission just to do this, but its a sure way to prevent the e-shaft from spinning.
You can buy the flywheel stopper here (bottom of page):
http://www.mazdatrix.com/8clutch.htm
I use a flywheel stopper to prevent the e-shaft from spinning when removing the flywheel nut.
Don't see why you couldn't do the same thing for the e-shaft nut.
Sucks to remove the transmission just to do this, but its a sure way to prevent the e-shaft from spinning.
You can buy the flywheel stopper here (bottom of page):
http://www.mazdatrix.com/8clutch.htm
usually works for me
11-08-2009, 03:34 AM
#9
Ayrton Senna Forever
Can anyone help me find the way to remove the e-shaft bolt. I have oil leak and trying to replace the front main seal myself. I am stuck at the E-shaft bolt couldn't get it off. I have heated it up with the blow torch, make sure to secure the clutch with the 2x4. Just don't know how to get the bolt off without the e-shaft for turning. Anyone have done this before please help me out the some tips. Thanks
I think it is better to throw away the pellet, and plug in the e-shaft's oil bypass holes.
11-08-2009, 04:43 AM
#11
RX-Heaven
iTrader: (6)
why not take the time and poull the engine and set it on the flywheel and do the front cover seal as well? mazdatrix sells a flywheel stopper that will hold the flywheel in place if need be. a 3/4 drive impact gun is your best bet to removing that bolt.
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Firecracker_exhaust (09-12-2023)
05-21-2013, 03:44 PM
#18
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Yeah, my jack handle doubles as a breaker bar extension quite often. We actually tweaked the flywheel stop trying to remove a flywheel nut recently. Pretty scary with the engine on the stand.
The 5lb sledge is a very versatile tool,
The 5lb sledge is a very versatile tool,
05-21-2013, 03:48 PM
#20
Registered
You guys are all trying to do this the hard way.
Get your socket and bar and place the socket on the bolt and rest the bar on a chassis rail or something solid so it can't move.
Then put your ignition key in the ignition and turn the key so the starter motor is just starting to turn the motor and then turn the key off.
Job done.
I've used this method when doing cranks seal on Subaru's, works every time.
Simply and easy.
Your impact driver is the starter motor, it has more torque than any impact driver.
Rotaman
Get your socket and bar and place the socket on the bolt and rest the bar on a chassis rail or something solid so it can't move.
Then put your ignition key in the ignition and turn the key so the starter motor is just starting to turn the motor and then turn the key off.
Job done.
I've used this method when doing cranks seal on Subaru's, works every time.
Simply and easy.
Your impact driver is the starter motor, it has more torque than any impact driver.
Rotaman
Last edited by Rotaman; 05-21-2013 at 03:50 PM.
05-21-2013, 03:50 PM
#21
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Yeah, my compressor just died and I am searching for a big replacement now so I can run proper shop tools like a blast cabinet. etc. I bought my father a 900FT/lb 1/2" IR impact and that thing is awesome. I see now they have 1200ft/lb 1/2" impacts 
It's all about the tools man!
It's all about the tools man!
05-21-2013, 03:59 PM
#22
You guys are all trying to do this the hard way.
Get your socket and bar and place the socket on the bolt and rest the bar on a chassis rail or something solid so it can't move.
Then put your ignition key in the ignition and turn the key so the starter motor is just starting to turn the motor and then turn the key off.
Job done.
I've used this method when doing cranks seal on Subaru's, works every time.
Simply and easy.
Your impact driver is the starter motor, it has more torque than any impact driver.
Rotaman
Get your socket and bar and place the socket on the bolt and rest the bar on a chassis rail or something solid so it can't move.
Then put your ignition key in the ignition and turn the key so the starter motor is just starting to turn the motor and then turn the key off.
Job done.
I've used this method when doing cranks seal on Subaru's, works every time.
Simply and easy.
Your impact driver is the starter motor, it has more torque than any impact driver.
Rotaman
05-21-2013, 04:10 PM
#23
Registered
Brett
Maybe your starter motor was a bit tired. I'm sure you aren't going to tell me you have more torque in your arms then a starter motor.
Anyway this is a very simple and effective way to do it, if your starter motor is not stuffed as well.
Rotaman
Maybe your starter motor was a bit tired. I'm sure you aren't going to tell me you have more torque in your arms then a starter motor.
Anyway this is a very simple and effective way to do it, if your starter motor is not stuffed as well.
Rotaman
Only just got this - 4 years too late .