LPCOKIE

my thought was it was the pre mix but if you all are concerned, and if you are i am, what should i look at?

LPCOKIE

i went to pre mix and synthetic because of other on this site ash you were the main reason. i really didnt expect any change.

ASH8

Your Metering Oil System does not know what type (mineral or syth) of engine oil you are using, you may think you are not using any engine oil, but what I have found after an oil change you generally fill it up sometimes slightly over the full mark and it can seem to take longer for it to do down.

Just keep an eye on your Engine Oil level, view it at the same time, 5 minutes after you turn off your car (Hot Engine) is the recommended time here in Australia, I think it is the same in the US?, they say never to check your oil on a cold engine....your readings will always be lower, so you could add too much oil to take it to the full mark on your dip stick and in this example when your engine is hot you will have too much oil in the sump.

csl

I'm wondering if go kart grade 2 cycle oil, which rated for up to 20k rpm is good for Sohn's solution. Or just stick with generic fully syntactic 2T.

jsjjr

iTrader: (1)

I've been using Lucas Oil UCL just by itself since I got my car a couple in Feb. (13,359 miles on it). I'm thinking of switching to the MMO. Do I use this by itself like I did with the UCL or can I mix the MMO with Pennzoil Full Synthetic TCW3 as a pre-mix? I believe in several of his postings, Jax8 indicated that the MMO is a better cleaner than lubricator..

ferg

all this stuff dont help much if you have a low mile car

StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

all this stuff dont help much if you have a low mile car


Inside the housing is shiny, old housings with not enough lube get rough, premixing keeps insides shiny - long time.

So yes, don't premix until the damage is done......

S

jsjjr

iTrader: (1)

Nice, so, to answer the question about MMO and Pennzoil? Good mix or no?

ferg

i understand where your coming from but its really the drivers decision. i seen guys who never did it and there engine is up to 80k miles already, runs ok i guess lol

TheBurkeMan

why dont people just use idemitsu... it is made to be premixed in rotary engines
then all of these questions wouldn't need to be asked

ferg

i dont know what to get, i was goin to try http://www.bluemarbleoil.com/Products/reverup.htm

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Why not have the option to buy locally instead of ordering online (and pay more)?
Some of us can simply drive to a gas station or auto parts store and purchase Castrol Marine instead of ordering Idemitsu online.
Why do you feel that Idemitsu is the only one to use?

jsjjr

iTrader: (1)

QFT! I'm not trying to stir up a hornets nest, just trying to get some clarifying info..

SpIcEz

Thing is castrol marine is a wrong choice...

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

OK.. I'll bite.
Why is Castrol Marine a wrong choice.

jsjjr

iTrader: (1)

I might be wrong, but I think he only used that as an example.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

No I didn't.
Many RX7 users use Castrol Marine.

jsjjr

iTrader: (1)

As I stated earlier, I've just been using the Lucas UCL since I got the car...actually, I started using it before I even read anything on this forum about pre-mixing. I have a brother that is a mechanic and also manages an AutoZone store part-time..he uses Lucas products a lot..he suggested it to me.. So, that's what I've always used. I don't have to change, but I do want to use the right product as beneficially possible for my car. The MMO 'seems' to be the right choice...

jsjjr

iTrader: (1)

Cool. I was wrong. I just read it differently.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

As long as its TC-W3 you should be fine.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

That's fine.
And I'm not here to preach to anyone or force you to use a certain brand.
But take what you read here, do your own homework, and decide for yourself.

I actually talked with people who have been around RX7s and RX8s longer than I, spoke with people like Charles R Hill and teknics, and did my own research before coming to a conclusion.

If you feel better using Idemitsu... that is perfectly fine.
I just don't like people saying that you should ONLY use Idemitsu.

I'll get off my soap box now

SpIcEz

It is my understanding that TCW-3 is not really the right thing to look for.

ISO-EGD or JASO-FC is.

I wont pretend to be an expert, but its my understanding that TCW-3 is more of a marine standard and marine oils (boat oils) are really NOT what you would want. They have dies and such that aren't meant for engines with Catalytic converters.

Quote from someone who IS an expert (StealthTL):

"I would avoid TCW-3 oil unless it is also rated ISO-EGD or JASO-FC or better."

I think ISO-EGD oils are much better and burning and mixing in with gasoline.

Now this doesnt mean TCW-3 oils will scrap your engine. Some oils are both or all 3 standards.

Just look for ISO-EGD or JASO-FC, those are your best bets.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

I'm not pretending to be an expert either when it comes to this oil debate, that's why I rely on more experienced people for information and do my own research outside this forum.
I too have read that TC-W3 should be avoided while others say its what you look for.

Its worse when you have two very knowledgeable people saying two different things.
The way I looked at it, if many people who have been running rotary engines for many years agree that a certain brand or type is bad, then I'll stay away.
But if many use X brand and others swear by Y brand, then it is probably OK to use either.
When something doesn't work, people tend to speak up loudly and agree collectively.

But like I said before, read up for yourself and decide from that.

StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

I said on page one, "don't use boat oil", and I'm still saying it five years and 35 pages of this thread later......

Please check the specs for JASO or ISO, it's childsplay these days with a google search - we run a two cylinder engine, equipped with two carbs for two separate fuel supplies. We run the oil lean and it must protect at 150:1, then richen up the pre-mix to 10:1 and any smoke is a fail!
Let's see boat slime meet that spec - it can't, it's too heavy, burns too smoky and leaves huge deposits if it does burn, because it's not designed to.

Boat oil is designed to slobber out with the exhaust, that's why bio-degradability is the prime focus of the specs. Unless your car discharges it's exhaust below the water level of a freshwater lake, it's not the right oil for you.

This is actually the last time I'm going to type this, I'm done with this thread.

All this has been stated irrefutably several times, but the specs are ignored and we go for another round of "I found this barge oil slime on sale down at the Cabelas, and I'm very happy with it," based on zero information; "my motor likes it...." "I get 14% better mileage..." " the engine response is incredible....".........bullshit.

So if your Pappy used Auto Tranny Fluid, Mystery Milk or Cat Diesel Fuel Enricher in his '47 DeSoto, then you should use it, just don't ask me what I recommend cos I'm out of here, done and finished. (Don't let thirty plus years in refining and chemicals hit me in the ***?.....)


S

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

^^post like this is why these oil debate threads aren't worth getting into anymore.
You have very knowledgeable people from different sides saying to use what they recommend, then when you choose a side, the other becomes frustrated and attempts to make you feel dumb.
Post like this is why I tell people to do your own research and decide for yourself.