Fuel Pump or Resistor problem ?
07-07-2008, 11:30 AM
#1
Fuel Pump or Resistor problem ?
I have a question.
I was at dealership last week, I told them that I have lost of power issue and :
"CUS STATES CK INT NO POWER ON ACCELERATION
VERIFIED CHECKED CAT GOOD FUEL PRESSURE GOOD CHECKED IGINITION FOUND ALL PLUGS OLD STYLE FOUND COILS SENDING ERRATIC SPARK @ LOAD AND HIGHER RPM R+R COIL R+R PLUGS
RE ROAD TESTED VEHICLE STILL FOUND SMALL HESITATIONS THROUGH RPM BAND DECARB MOTOR REROAD TEST NO MORE HESITATION"
Notice : I replaced all my plugs myself less than 5K miles ago and coils 3 K miles ago.
hmm ... it was nice that they decarb, all 4 new plugs and 4 new coils without me fighting for it (Thx Wayne Mazda!)
but I really wonder did they checked the fuel pump pressure.
cuz now my car chokes even below 6K rpm. sometimes as early as 4K rpm. and it happens if I rapidly accelerate or full throttle with less than 1/2 tank of gas.
I have a new fuel pump in my garage, should I just order a new gasket and quick release connector and install the pump myself ? or bring it back and bug them to replace the fuel pump ? or maybe the resistor ?
I ask becuz Im kinda lazy to change the stuff back to stock(thats what they told me last time), is it worth it ?
I was at dealership last week, I told them that I have lost of power issue and :
"CUS STATES CK INT NO POWER ON ACCELERATION
VERIFIED CHECKED CAT GOOD FUEL PRESSURE GOOD CHECKED IGINITION FOUND ALL PLUGS OLD STYLE FOUND COILS SENDING ERRATIC SPARK @ LOAD AND HIGHER RPM R+R COIL R+R PLUGS
RE ROAD TESTED VEHICLE STILL FOUND SMALL HESITATIONS THROUGH RPM BAND DECARB MOTOR REROAD TEST NO MORE HESITATION"
Notice : I replaced all my plugs myself less than 5K miles ago and coils 3 K miles ago.
hmm ... it was nice that they decarb, all 4 new plugs and 4 new coils without me fighting for it (Thx Wayne Mazda!)
but I really wonder did they checked the fuel pump pressure.
cuz now my car chokes even below 6K rpm. sometimes as early as 4K rpm. and it happens if I rapidly accelerate or full throttle with less than 1/2 tank of gas.
I have a new fuel pump in my garage, should I just order a new gasket and quick release connector and install the pump myself ? or bring it back and bug them to replace the fuel pump ? or maybe the resistor ?
I ask becuz Im kinda lazy to change the stuff back to stock(thats what they told me last time), is it worth it ?
Last edited by nycgps; 07-07-2008 at 11:33 AM.
07-07-2008, 08:22 PM
#2
change the pump.
i dont recall a gasket to deal with.. the resistor made no change in my car.
beers
i dont recall a gasket to deal with.. the resistor made no change in my car.
beers
I have a question.
I was at dealership last week, I told them that I have lost of power issue and :
"CUS STATES CK INT NO POWER ON ACCELERATION
VERIFIED CHECKED CAT GOOD FUEL PRESSURE GOOD CHECKED IGINITION FOUND ALL PLUGS OLD STYLE FOUND COILS SENDING ERRATIC SPARK @ LOAD AND HIGHER RPM R+R COIL R+R PLUGS
RE ROAD TESTED VEHICLE STILL FOUND SMALL HESITATIONS THROUGH RPM BAND DECARB MOTOR REROAD TEST NO MORE HESITATION"
Notice : I replaced all my plugs myself less than 5K miles ago and coils 3 K miles ago.
hmm ... it was nice that they decarb, all 4 new plugs and 4 new coils without me fighting for it (Thx Wayne Mazda!)
but I really wonder did they checked the fuel pump pressure.
cuz now my car chokes even below 6K rpm. sometimes as early as 4K rpm. and it happens if I rapidly accelerate or full throttle with less than 1/2 tank of gas.
I have a new fuel pump in my garage, should I just order a new gasket and quick release connector and install the pump myself ? or bring it back and bug them to replace the fuel pump ? or maybe the resistor ?
I ask becuz Im kinda lazy to change the stuff back to stock(thats what they told me last time), is it worth it ?
I was at dealership last week, I told them that I have lost of power issue and :
"CUS STATES CK INT NO POWER ON ACCELERATION
VERIFIED CHECKED CAT GOOD FUEL PRESSURE GOOD CHECKED IGINITION FOUND ALL PLUGS OLD STYLE FOUND COILS SENDING ERRATIC SPARK @ LOAD AND HIGHER RPM R+R COIL R+R PLUGS
RE ROAD TESTED VEHICLE STILL FOUND SMALL HESITATIONS THROUGH RPM BAND DECARB MOTOR REROAD TEST NO MORE HESITATION"
Notice : I replaced all my plugs myself less than 5K miles ago and coils 3 K miles ago.
hmm ... it was nice that they decarb, all 4 new plugs and 4 new coils without me fighting for it (Thx Wayne Mazda!)
but I really wonder did they checked the fuel pump pressure.
cuz now my car chokes even below 6K rpm. sometimes as early as 4K rpm. and it happens if I rapidly accelerate or full throttle with less than 1/2 tank of gas.
I have a new fuel pump in my garage, should I just order a new gasket and quick release connector and install the pump myself ? or bring it back and bug them to replace the fuel pump ? or maybe the resistor ?
I ask becuz Im kinda lazy to change the stuff back to stock(thats what they told me last time), is it worth it ?
02-06-2018, 02:41 PM
#3
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I have a question pertaining to my fuel pump resistor. I took fuel pump from my 05 rx8 and put it in my 04 rx8. When I try to start the car you know the fuel pump will put on for two or three seconds then shut off in this case when I turn the ignition on the fuel pump keeps running and running and running and running I took the fuel pump back out and noticed some wires I’m assuming is the fuel pump resister parts of the wires are Bare. Could that be the problem why the fuel pump constantly runs when they ignition is on
02-24-2018, 01:28 PM
#6
Registered
The fuel pump is always running when the ignition is on.
The resistor (0.34 ohm?) is switched in by the PCM (ECU) to reduce the voltage at the fuel pump at low RPM, probably for noise rather than performance or longevity reasons. It is a finned aluminium block (order of magnitude: 2" x 2" x 3/4"?) with 2 wires and is secured at the RHS top rear of the engine bay.
There are 4 wires in the plug for the fuel pump basket:
White/Red for the pump +ve (not necessarily battery/alternator voltage, as there will be some voltage drop and the resistor should drop it by 2v or more)
Black for Earth/Ground
Red/Blue and Black/Orange for the LHS side of the saddle tank fuel level.
If you are still having problems, what do you mean by bare? The wires should all be insulated throughout.
The resistor (0.34 ohm?) is switched in by the PCM (ECU) to reduce the voltage at the fuel pump at low RPM, probably for noise rather than performance or longevity reasons. It is a finned aluminium block (order of magnitude: 2" x 2" x 3/4"?) with 2 wires and is secured at the RHS top rear of the engine bay.
There are 4 wires in the plug for the fuel pump basket:
White/Red for the pump +ve (not necessarily battery/alternator voltage, as there will be some voltage drop and the resistor should drop it by 2v or more)
Black for Earth/Ground
Red/Blue and Black/Orange for the LHS side of the saddle tank fuel level.
If you are still having problems, what do you mean by bare? The wires should all be insulated throughout.
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