He didn't say that is what was wrong on these two specific engines. The thread is still relevant. Please try to get off your pedestal, its hard to read from way up there.

 

both engines obviously had an oil related issue.

while no one knows for sure what happened to the first exactly ~~~ on the 2nd one, if whoever built the engine forgot to tighten the oil pressure regulator, the oil wil just drop straight back to the oil pan = BOOM.

he kept saying it can't be his buddies cuz they built so many engines --- well?

 

Mod Edit:
Please start your own help thread. This one is completely unrelated to your question and is currently still in progress.

You will only have permission to start a thread in the New Member forum, so I recommend you head over there.

-RIWWP

 

looks like an improperly set front thrust stack.

if you have 10 years of experience building these engines and have to ask on a rotary forum what happened, and are rude about suggestions i'm thinking you aren't all that. i also suggest not relying on the stock oil pressure gauge, it won't read anything of importance until it's too late.

 

ok then how do you explain that its spun two rotor bearings, fried all of the main bearing journals? in the first pic, 1040893, you can clearly see that the rear main is in really bad condition, in addition to the front main, on BOTH shafts.

the bearing spinning is a symptom.

 

Agreed. The only thing I can't quite figure out is the uneven wear on the e-shaft. But, after looking at it all as a whole, I think that is just consequential to the original oil problem.

 

Karack we have experience but I didn`t say that we are mega turbo hiper pro mechanics who know every thing. For all this time we do every thing by us self but now we stuck in one place so I decided to ask here. In our country live 40 000 000 of people and there is only one workshop witch rebuild rotary engines. There are about 10 to 20 people who rebuild engines by them selfs so every thing on witch we can base our experience is our own experiences and I don`t say that we had seen all posiable disasters in rotary engines. In our comunity knowlage about rotary engines is based on legends that he drink two times mor petrol than piston engines that every 5-10 000km when U replace air filter u mast replace engine also like in first rotary Lada`s Once when I was studied (biggest tech uniwersity) one of the teachers sugest that rotary engine has valves !! In all Europe there is very little rotary cars and rotary shops and knowlage about rotary engines. He had few customes form Norway/Russia/Germany all came because heard about us and told us that in their countries only way is to replace engine in ASO to the new one...
All parts we must buy in US / JAP pay taxes wait 3-6 weeks sometimes. U propobly go to near part shop order and have them next day or buy on ebay and the same. Our parts sometimes lay in customs for 2 weeks... That is why I decided to ask here.
Other thing is that in our region engines in rx8 live 60-80000km 100 000 is max of maximum. I saw some guys in US forums witch had 200 000 witch is abstract in our conditions... Why? Because most of rx8 drivers buy rx8 because its nice not rotary... Many times people ask us could we swap 1,9TDI or something like this ...

Once we buy RX7 FC Turbo with 2,0D from Mercedes W124 under the bonet!! If I find pics I`ll show U. Owner of this car says that it is unimaginable that car can use so much petrol so he trow out 13B turbo and put it to junk just to have 2,0diesel and fuel only 5liters of ON every 100km insted 20liters of petrol. That is how rotary world look like in our region ;/

End of OT.

It`s a good sugestion can I was allway wondering what will happened if the shaft "free play"? Will be to big. There is posibility that mechanic who rebuild that engine put all the stuf on the front of the engine from old engine. That would be all logic
About gauges I know that because temp gauge from 60-105C is in the same position.

Have U got any pics of broken engine of this cause?

j9fd3s I don`t won`t to discus about oil any more. It`s simple something broke one bearing and pieces of this bearing **** up all lubrication system. U don`t believe in my knowlege and don`t want tu understand what I`m talking about. I don`t give about it. For me every time when U`ll se broken bearing or shaft U can blame lubrication system. That`s your opinion. My opinion is that U don`t bring anything to this thread.

MikeTyson8MyKids did U saw all new pics?? What do U think about Karack theory??

 

i don't, but it resembles some i have found similarly that lost oil cooler lines and spun bearings as a result, however those lost ALL oil pressure to the point that the rotors began fusing to the irons. in this case it seems to be either:

oil contamination
extremely low oil pressure, but not 0
or improper thrust on the e-shaft

oil pressure issues are usually the most common, due to the many places oil pressure can bleed off in these engines: the poor oil galley seal in the front cover, a stuck bypass port in the front cover, a worn oil pump or a stuck main oil pressure regulator. those will result in extremely low oil pressure that usually won't kill an engine immediately but will slowly hammer it into the ground over several thousand km of driving.

 

I'll check them out when I get a chance tomorrow. When I do inspections like this, I make sure to take pictures and record all bolt torques, observations, etc as I disassemble. This is really important for a thorough investigation.

Gotta say, this is not an easy one without all those observations, but you are going down the right path thinking that some oil was present, but it definitely was not enough to support the eshaft in the journals.

 

Throw away the coolers on the next build.

Professional sonic cleaning is the only possible way to deal with oil coolers with metal debris and we prefer to take 0 risks. We replace the coolers if there was bearing failure.

Paul.