DTC P0139 - And rough idle
12-31-2006, 04:43 AM
#29
Update, and then I am done here and the original author can have his thread back; after driving my car for most of the day I can say that it is running very well. It drives, shifts, and sounds as smooth and powerful as it ever has. Last night I put my catless midpipe back on and picked up the power that I normally would have expected. As a matter of fact, my car is back to being the beast it was back in August of 2004 and I now cannot wait to get back to my pursuit of a 150 h.p. shot of nitrous. A few simple things to tackle and I'll be back on track to those 11 second 1/4 mile times I have been aiming for. Consider this thread "unhijacked".
12-31-2006, 07:14 AM
#30
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Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
Update, and then I am done here and the original author can have his thread back; after driving my car for most of the day I can say that it is running very well. It drives, shifts, and sounds as smooth and powerful as it ever has. Last night I put my catless midpipe back on and picked up the power that I normally would have expected. As a matter of fact, my car is back to being the beast it was back in August of 2004 and I now cannot wait to get back to my pursuit of a 150 h.p. shot of nitrous. A few simple things to tackle and I'll be back on track to those 11 second 1/4 mile times I have been aiming for. Consider this thread "unhijacked".
Very glad to hear your car's back to normal, Charles. Do you still think you have a compression problem, or was it just a matter of resetting your e-shaft and PCM to get your performance back?
I'm thinking about taking mine in for the emissions recall, to get the latest flash, but just a little concerned after hearing about the oil in the intake and stuff after the flash. I know how to reset the PCM if the dealer doesn't do it, and I'm sure there's a thread out there that explains how to do the e-shaft, right?
12-31-2006, 10:48 AM
#31
Not trying to hijack the thread anymore.....
After conferring with MM about my compression values he and I both suspect the measurement process was done improperly, to some degree at least, which would have brought the numbers down. Most likely it was failure to warm the car up for at least 10 minutes prior to testing. That's one of the things I will be re-checking before continuing the nitrous project. As far as performance goes, what I can tell you, for sure, is that I had the 4206f reflash done and the car didn't run any better and maybe even became a little rougher. Once I had reset the e-shaft profile(that's the 20 brake pedal taps within 8 seconds deal and there is a thread about it) the engine started running much smoother and stronger. To have a poor e-shaft setting in the first place could be a possible cause of high rpm misfires and maybe poor cat performance because the PCM doesn't know exactly where the crank is. As for oil in the intake, that may be just a coincidence but I am keeping my eye on things and if it goes away that would be weird but certainly welcome. What should you do? I am not sure what to suggest, but only to ask which flash you are on now so as to be sure you are getting enough MOP oil in the first place, especially with nitrous use.
After conferring with MM about my compression values he and I both suspect the measurement process was done improperly, to some degree at least, which would have brought the numbers down. Most likely it was failure to warm the car up for at least 10 minutes prior to testing. That's one of the things I will be re-checking before continuing the nitrous project. As far as performance goes, what I can tell you, for sure, is that I had the 4206f reflash done and the car didn't run any better and maybe even became a little rougher. Once I had reset the e-shaft profile(that's the 20 brake pedal taps within 8 seconds deal and there is a thread about it) the engine started running much smoother and stronger. To have a poor e-shaft setting in the first place could be a possible cause of high rpm misfires and maybe poor cat performance because the PCM doesn't know exactly where the crank is. As for oil in the intake, that may be just a coincidence but I am keeping my eye on things and if it goes away that would be weird but certainly welcome. What should you do? I am not sure what to suggest, but only to ask which flash you are on now so as to be sure you are getting enough MOP oil in the first place, especially with nitrous use.
12-31-2006, 11:49 AM
#32
Go Texas Longhorns!
Thread Starter
Ok, ran the BG-44K through the car, really had fun burning that tank of gas as I was hard on the car to make sure all the fuel injectors got some love. Its to early to tell if my idle is better, I’ll watch it this week and see how stable it is vs. before. The car pulls smooth and generally feels better, but that could be all in my head. As far as gas mileage goes
My trip home from San Antonio today was interesting, the first leg, which was 115mi, I got 25.11mpg doing 70 with no A/C. This was with a little premix and temps in the low 50’s.
The last 65 miles I decided to drop down to 65mph just for testing, as I have gotten almost 27mpg at 65mph once coming home in bad weather conditions. I ended up getting only 23.59mpg going slower! HTF does that work? This is actually the second time that has happened to me. I got about 24mpg with the A/C doing 70mph, and then tried testing the 65mph and also got about 23.5mpg.
(in case your wondering why I care about 65mph, its because the Mazmart 4.11 rear end would have you cruising at the same RPM doing 70mph as our cars do stock cruising at 65mph) - Note: I do not have this mod, but am pondering it.
Was it a fluke? Is 65mi not enough to test mileage? I feel good about the 25.11mpg number b/c I’ve gotten around that a couple of times, but why the hell would it get worse with less load?
My trip home from San Antonio today was interesting, the first leg, which was 115mi, I got 25.11mpg doing 70 with no A/C. This was with a little premix and temps in the low 50’s.
The last 65 miles I decided to drop down to 65mph just for testing, as I have gotten almost 27mpg at 65mph once coming home in bad weather conditions. I ended up getting only 23.59mpg going slower! HTF does that work? This is actually the second time that has happened to me. I got about 24mpg with the A/C doing 70mph, and then tried testing the 65mph and also got about 23.5mpg.
(in case your wondering why I care about 65mph, its because the Mazmart 4.11 rear end would have you cruising at the same RPM doing 70mph as our cars do stock cruising at 65mph) - Note: I do not have this mod, but am pondering it.
Was it a fluke? Is 65mi not enough to test mileage? I feel good about the 25.11mpg number b/c I’ve gotten around that a couple of times, but why the hell would it get worse with less load?
Last edited by brillo; 12-31-2006 at 03:55 PM.
12-31-2006, 03:18 PM
#33
Because the Renesis has differing efficiencies and A/F ratios depending on rpm's and lower is not always better. BTW, brillo, do you have an on-going discussion/thread regarding your 4.11 swap and the differences you have noticed with it?
12-31-2006, 03:56 PM
#34
Go Texas Longhorns!
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
Because the Renesis has differing efficiencies and A/F ratios depending on rpm's and lower is not always better. BTW, brillo, do you have an on-going discussion/thread regarding your 4.11 swap and the differences you have noticed with it?
the AFR's looked the same to me on my wideband, but it is possible there are spots in the power band that are more efficient than others.
12-31-2006, 08:13 PM
#36
Peak torque (and, therefore, peak VE) is at 5500 RPM.
The best fuel economy for the engine (without respect to gearing) happens at that point.
Now, as far as how the PCM decides to inject fuel, there may be an over-rich condition there for EPA concerns.
With the Int-X, you can run the motor at 15:1 or so at that RPM and you will see maximum MPG.
IIRC, 5500 RPM in 6th is probably 70 MPH or so.
The best fuel economy for the engine (without respect to gearing) happens at that point.
Now, as far as how the PCM decides to inject fuel, there may be an over-rich condition there for EPA concerns.
With the Int-X, you can run the motor at 15:1 or so at that RPM and you will see maximum MPG.
IIRC, 5500 RPM in 6th is probably 70 MPH or so.
Last edited by MazdaManiac; 12-31-2006 at 08:16 PM.
01-01-2007, 01:06 AM
#37
Go Texas Longhorns!
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=
IIRC, 5500 RPM in 6th is probably 70 MPH or so.[/QUOTE]
not sure what you mean by this as 6th gear at 70mpg is a hair under 3400rpm
IIRC, 5500 RPM in 6th is probably 70 MPH or so.[/QUOTE]
not sure what you mean by this as 6th gear at 70mpg is a hair under 3400rpm
01-01-2007, 03:13 AM
#39
Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
Once I had reset the e-shaft profile(that's the 20 brake pedal taps within 8 seconds deal and there is a thread about it) the engine started running much smoother and stronger. .
Have you run any cleaning products through the tank yet ?
Cheers
Brett
01-01-2007, 03:21 AM
#40
Heard this story from an ex rotary mechanic the other day . He says they used to get a lot of RX7s come in running poorly - low on power & generally rough .
What they did was put the car on a dyno & run it up to max revs under load . They would then pour a cleaner product (can't remember what it was) down the carb for about 2 minutes smoking out the whole neighbourhood in the process. Once complete the cars would be back to normal power - No engine rebuild required .
What they did was put the car on a dyno & run it up to max revs under load . They would then pour a cleaner product (can't remember what it was) down the carb for about 2 minutes smoking out the whole neighbourhood in the process. Once complete the cars would be back to normal power - No engine rebuild required .
01-01-2007, 07:54 AM
#41
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Sorry, I was a little confused about the terminology of what was actually being reset. Here's the official doc, in case anyone's interested:
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...30-05-1544.pdf
25MPG?? That sounds great. The best I have EVER seen was 23 on a tankfull. Lately I've been averaging 17-18, but that's mostly city driving with some high speed highway thrown in. What is the premix you're talking about?
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...30-05-1544.pdf
Originally Posted by brillo
Ok, ran the BG-44K through the car, really had fun burning that tank of gas as I was hard on the car to make sure all the fuel injectors got some love. Its to early to tell if my idle is better, I’ll watch it this week and see how stable it is vs. before. The car pulls smooth and generally feels better, but that could be all in my head. As far as gas mileage goes
My trip home from San Antonio today was interesting, the first leg, which was 115mi, I got 25.11mpg doing 70 with no A/C. This was with a little premix and temps in the low 50’s.
My trip home from San Antonio today was interesting, the first leg, which was 115mi, I got 25.11mpg doing 70 with no A/C. This was with a little premix and temps in the low 50’s.
01-01-2007, 09:06 AM
#42
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Originally Posted by wankelrx8
Sorry, I was a little confused about the terminology of what was actually being reset. Here's the official doc, in case anyone's interested:
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...30-05-1544.pdf
25MPG?? That sounds great. The best I have EVER seen was 23 on a tankfull. Lately I've been averaging 17-18, but that's mostly city driving with some high speed highway thrown in. What is the premix you're talking about?
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...30-05-1544.pdf
25MPG?? That sounds great. The best I have EVER seen was 23 on a tankfull. Lately I've been averaging 17-18, but that's mostly city driving with some high speed highway thrown in. What is the premix you're talking about?
01-01-2007, 09:46 AM
#43
Got Another Rotary
Originally Posted by Brettus
Heard this story from an ex rotary mechanic the other day . He says they used to get a lot of RX7s come in running poorly - low on power & generally rough .
What they did was put the car on a dyno & run it up to max revs under load . They would then pour a cleaner product (can't remember what it was) down the carb for about 2 minutes smoking out the whole neighbourhood in the process. Once complete the cars would be back to normal power - No engine rebuild required .
What they did was put the car on a dyno & run it up to max revs under load . They would then pour a cleaner product (can't remember what it was) down the carb for about 2 minutes smoking out the whole neighbourhood in the process. Once complete the cars would be back to normal power - No engine rebuild required .
01-01-2007, 10:07 AM
#44
I am not really sure what happened with my car, nor do I know if the e-shaft reset was the cure all along, but I am currently quite pleased with the way the car runs and performs and took it out Saturday night for a little fun. My current girlfriend has been my "co-pilot" for the past 6 months and she not only noticed the difference since the reset, but also became intimidated when I did a couple of full-throttle punches here and there. We also managed to get in a full "pass" on the way home and it was STRONG. She was speechless. Rather than get into it all here, I have decided to post my plans over on the "Direct-Port" thread.
01-01-2007, 11:53 AM
#45
Originally Posted by Jax_RX8
Was it "Seafoam"? Seafoam is poured directly into carbs or sucked into the combustion chamber via a vacuum line for cleaning - it is known for its HUGE smoke trails while cleaning.
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