Red_Rotor

This will be my first oil change and I really want to get all the old oil out on my first change. If I drain the oil cooler when I change my oil what is the reccomended way to start up the engine after adding oil back in. How do I oli back in the oil cooler. Im sorry if this question sounds a little dumb, but this is my first car with an oil cooler.

Go48

First question: How do you plan to drain the oil from the oil cooler(s) [and the oil lines I presume]? There is no provision for doing that easily and as far as I know, you will need to disconnect a bunch of oil lines and drain the oil into areas of the car not particularly accessible for a drain pan.

But, assuming you have a come up with a reasonable techinque for doing that, I think you would just add oil to the engine to the top mark on the dipstick, run the car for a few minutes, check and add oil to bring the level to the top mark, and do that several times until you are confident that the oil cooler(s) and lines are full of oil. As long as there is oil in the engine during this procedure you should be OK.

IMO a simpler, but less effective, approach would be to occasionally do a kind of flush. Specifically, drain the oil from the pan, add enough oil to bring the level up to mid-mark on the dipstick, run the engine for several minutes, drain the oil from the pan, fill to the top mark on the dipstick. You will dilute the old oil substantially and it will only cost you 3 or so qts of oil. I'm thinking about doing that at my next oil change interval.

BTW, I had my oil from the last 2 oil changes analyzed at Blackstone and everything looked fine. I change mine at 3K intervals or less

cgrx

jack up the drvers side of the car as high as you can to drain more. You could also do the same to the assengers side, then lift the drivers side again.

RX-8 friend

There is a clip on each oil cooler hose. Just pull the clip and the hose will pull off. The cooler will then -mostly- drain.

I don't really think this is necessary though. There will still be oil in the engine, in the rotors, some in the pan, some in the lines. You can't get it all out. There is so much oil in a renesis that it isn't really that much of a problem. It's the filter that really needs changing - it's the first thing in the oil system that "gets dirty" and needs to be changed. The filter test found the oil filter in most cars gets dirty enough to be changed after only around 500 mi.

SilverEIGHT

I do this ever 3K. Oil is cheep.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

There appears to be anti-drainback valves in the oil coolers...you would need to remove the connectors at the coolers and remove the valve/spring to drain the coolers completely. An easier solution is the dilution method...You will never get rid of all of the old oil...but after a while it will be so small it won't matter

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

why not disconnect the supply line and put compressed air to it? I know people who have done it this way with other vehicles

PhantomRX-8

iTrader: (1)

Im in the process of doing my turbo install and will convert the oil to Royal Purple 5w-30. I have the bumper and junk off and want to drain the oil coolers so I can most of the oil out instead of doing the "flush" method. I know it wont get ALL of it out, but most is good enough for me. I took pics of what I think will drain the cooler, will this drain it???



or should I use this???

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

if u're going turbo and want your turbo and motor to live longer, use heavier than 5w-30.

and you live in Texas, IMO, 20w50 is what you should use.

I live in NYC and I use 20w50. and Im NA. go figure.

PhantomRX-8

iTrader: (1)

Really?? I saw MM uses RP 5w-30 and hes in Az. I lived in AZ for 26 years and always ran 5w-30 in my other cars. Is it really that different for a Rotary?

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

does he? I dunno about that

I think mysql use 20w50, and he is turbo.

my motor died not long ago, i dont think it has anything to do with motor oil weight since all I got was low compression. Mazda's OMP probably messed it up. Now Reman motor in, Premix since day 1 and 20w50 all the way (winter I use 10w40 )

PhantomRX-8

iTrader: (1)

Eh, thats what he said as of 7/07 in the "Greddy owners fill this out" thread in the Major horsepower section. I wonder if I could take the oil back and just do a swap??

ASH8

Mate, forget about it...really..

It is such a time waster, messy, and you still won't get all the oil out, there is a total of around 7 litres for memory the most you will get out is about 5, 4 if you do a normal dump.

Just change your oil every 3000 miles and you will do fine.

In other words you do all this mucking around for an extra litre of oil...

swoope

iTrader: (5)

very old but good.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-max-oil-out-oil-change-90879/

if you take some time you would be surprised how much comes out..

ash, pm!

beers

delhi

that explains why your engine went KABOOM. NYC winter and 20w50 sludge?

tunerwannab

iTrader: (1)

One thing i like to do is get the car nice and hot before you do it. The oil drains out much faster. I dont jack up my car at all and I have gotten about 4.5qts out if I just let it drain for a while. If you have the rime just let it drain for 45min or so. Of coarse you will have th jack up the car if you are going to do it at home though. Also I change the filter first, then the oil. Wich usually lets a little oil out of those lines, and keep your oil cap off while it drains.

PhantomRX-8

iTrader: (1)

I dont have the luxury of running the engine right now as it is spread out into every corner of my garage right now! I was just hoping to crack the coolers open and let them drain!

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

He has switched since. I run Castrol GTX 20W-50 in the spring/summer time and 10W-40 in the fall/winter. 20W-50 is THICK but once it's up to temp it thins out considerably.


And about getting oil out of the coolers, the easiest way to drain oil out of the pan, top off with your new oil, run the engine for 2-3 minuets, drain oil again, top off, run engine, drain, then top off one last time. It's the only way to get the most "old" oil out, but you will never get it all out, so change your filter frequently.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I start using 20w50 AFTER my engine went kaboom.

On the odometer, in miles :

15 to 5 K miles - 5w20

5 K to maybe 35K miles - 5w30

35K - 48903 which the engine went kaboom - 5w30, 5w40, and 10w40

not to metion, 20w50 is used by zillions of rotary owners in the old days. their engine didnt go kaboom. some did switch to 10w40 for winter, it really depends on your location. I know I will go back to 5 or 10w40 for NYC winter. Just no more thin oil for my rotary.

more and more engine goes kaboom ever since thinner and thinner owner came out. check.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Its almost 2 yrs ago, he changed.

use 20w50 in spring/summer/fall, switch to 5 or 10w40 for winter months.

Nubo

You get about 4 quarts out with normal methods, plus you will consume oil in-between changes, which is replaced with fresh oil. With 3000-mile changes, the "age" of the oil in your engine will be fine.