I just got my plugs and wires in the mail today. I also picked up bhr ignition kit. I have my inspection on wednesday and wanted to throw everything on this weekend.

 

I would install them and see how it looks/runs.
If you still have grayish smoke, then we'll go from there.

 

I just received my plugs and wires today. I also got my bhr ignition kit today. I was going to throw on the bhr and plugs this weekend. My inspection is wednesday and I didn't feel like explaining my upgrade to anyone.

 

1. Take vehicle to someone with proper tool who knows what they're doing

 

Does anyone happen to know how much a compression test is from the dealership. I realize that prices may vary but id just like to have an idea. I cant really bring myself to buy a compression tester as i don't have any idea how to rebuild an engine. However i would like to know if/when its time for Mazda to give me a new motor.

 

I've heard between $100 and $175 around here.
I would just call the dealer and ask to be certain.

 

Okay! I have another thread on this but this one seems real good. I had mine done this weekend at the dealership and this is what the reading they got and said were good. Now i see the ones posted eariler are in the 90's and 100's. Is there 2 ways to show the readings? Am I running 6.0 out of 100? I hope not the stealership said this was good. I get maybe 200miles to a full tank. Thats babying the car no speeding at all. If I run it hard I get 160ish or less. Please help. Thanks

@ 261 rpm

#1 5.4, 5.8, 6.0
#2 6.1, 5.8, 5.7


*EDIT*
Aftersearching the forum i found this.

It was from a manual.
The standard is 8.5kgf.cm2 120 psi @ 250 RPM's
Minimal is 6.9kgf.cmw 98.6psi @ 250RPM's


What do I do now? Did they do it at a higher RPM to get higher results? ***** F@#kers

 

Five months later i know, but the fact that it was at a higher RPM means that you have a kickass starter. The way they get the readings is by cranking the car with the tester attached. They disconnect i think its the crank sensor relay so the car will not actually start so the RPM's are determined by how fast you starter will turn.

 

There is no "crank sensor" relay... because there is no crank sensor
And they disconnect the Eccentric Shaft Positioning Sensor to disable the ignition.
The fuel pump fuse is also removed so it doesn't inject fuel during this time also.
RPM is determined by the number of compression pulses in a certain amount of time.
You have much to learn...

 

Which one did you buy? The rotary diagnostics one is $650.00

 

I have the ReCT-MMT unit from Rotary Diagnostics:
http://rotarydiagnostics.com/pricing%20combined.htm

It only comes with one transducer (so one rotor test at a time), but the unit supports up to 4-rotors so I can buy more transducers later if I want to test both rotors together.

 

Thanks, I may just wait for the twisted rotors one. But I'd like to get one soon.