RoscoeM

Took in my rx8 for an oil change today and had a few questions, but also was advised on some services I should be getting done.
Basically I want to know what everyone thinks in terms of price on these services and whether or not they NEED to be done.

1. Transmission fluid flush/pan reseal. $100
The pan for the trans fluid apparently has a leak which is covered by warranty so its a $100 deductible, but the transmission fluid needs to be flushed anyhow I was told so they are giving me a "discount" and just using the warranty to cover that.

2. Coolant Flush $139.95

3. Brake Fluid Flush $109.95 apparently looked dirty?

4. Fuel System Flush/Injectors cleaned ect. $199.00

5. New Brake Pads $418.00
I asked them about putting ceramic pads on in order to get rid of the brake dust on my wheels and he said "Well, the pads on the RX8 are special so I would recommend using the stock part when replacing them."

6. Rear Differential Oil $139.95
Apparently needs to be flushed/replaced/W.E...

Anyhow would love to hear some recommendations.

Also if it helps, its an 04 AT 4 speed touring. I am located in Phoenix Metro Area.

RoscoeM

Don't all 35 of you page viewers respond at once now.

redline86

iTrader: (7)

I doubt there is many people here that would pay to have any of that done as they are all pretty easy to do yourself. I would love to hear what makes the RX8 pads "special" but hey if you have the money to pay someone to do easy work go for it. If you read the DIY section you fill find easy to follow instructions on how to do all of that yourself.

PJLyons

iTrader: (3)

All the prices seem reasonable except the brake pads imo, but changing the pads are a little time consuming so I think they're getting you for $200 labor on that one. Have you done any of the fluid changes previously? All should have been done around 60K miles, but if you haven't done any yet I would think they are needed most likely asap. The tranny, coolant, diff fluid change, and brake pad replacement can be done for significantly less and are on the very easy end of difficulty level. I'm not familiar with the tranny pan reseal or fuel system clean, but I wouldn't think these are that difficult either. You can also go the aftermarket route on parts and upgrade if you wish for less than what you'd pay in total for oem parts and labor. Check the DIY threads for more info, gauge you level of comfort, and see if there are any other owners in your area that can show you the ropes on this car.

RoscoeM

Thanks for your input sir, but you failed to be of any use whatsoever. I wasn't asking the difficulty of doing these things myself but rather if the prices I was quoted are fair for the work that is being done.

wahkupup

iTrader: (3)

"whether or not they NEED to be done", depends on when the last time you had it done. Check your owners manual for Mazdas "recommended" fluid interval changes. This is a good place to start.

redline86

iTrader: (7)

You missed my point so I will explain. Many people on here do not feel obligated to help people they view as ignorant and will just as well let them get dupped out of money by shady dealerships. I pointed you to the DIY section so that you could glace through the procedures yourself and see if the work involved justified the expense they quoted you. I showed you the door; many people are not even nice enough to do that. Did they tell you what they charge in labor cost?

Personally the fuel system clean is a way for the shop just to make money, aimed at people who do not know any better. You could just go to the store and buy a bottle of fuel system cleaner yourself at walmart.

There is your hand out.

RX8Soldier

iTrader: (24)

You're doing a great job winning the hearts and minds of this forum. Keep up the good work

RoscoeM

Im not trying to win anyones heart or mind... I dont see how this is any better then what I replied back to him with. I asked an easy question and instead he decides to more or less insult me. Also I have been a member of these forums for a decent amount of time I just cant seem to remember my login I had before.

Just an FYI to you as well, I came here in search of people that are more mechanically experienced than I, no where on this forum does it say "if you are not mechanically extra inclined GTFO".

Thats how I feel anyhow. Sorry if I hurt any feelings, its just that I see people reply to posts on this forums often that have nothing helpful to say so instead the troll or w/e you may consider it and cause conflict for no reason.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

1. what leak? where is the leak? if it's the pan, it's super easy to "reseal", just replace the freaking gasket. if it's the casing, then it's a big"ger" job. but what u mean by it's covered under warranty ?

2. hell no, Go get yourself 2 gallons of 100% coolant, 2 Gallons of pure distilled water at ur local super market, and another 50/50 coolant mix. get a big bucket or oil drain pan, Drain the radiator and the block (search for my DIY), close it, Pour First gallon of coolant first, then water, then coolant, if it seems "full", go into the car and start it, coolant will be "gone" right away, add more water. it should be full already, if not, use the last 50/50 to top it off. close the cap, Rev the car to 2K for 5 minutes, then 2.5K for another 5 minutes. Let the car sit for 1-2 hr. open cap, top off, do the same thing again. top off, done. Whole thing should cost u less than 40 bux.

3. u need a friend to do this urself (faster), don't trust speed bleeders, good old fashion way works well, u need a 8mm wrench, a clear plastic tube, an old bottle to dump old fluid. Search for instructions on google, go get couple 2-3 quarts of DOT3 or DOT4 Brake fluid, cost less than 30 bux

4. F- This "SERVICE", the ONLY way to properly clean injectors is to REMOVE it out of the car and have it service at professional place. all dealership do is pour a bottle of 5 dollar lucas(or whatever crap brand) injector cleaner into ur gas tank that does nothing.

5. Stock Brake pad does stop better than most Ceramic Pads out there. Stock Pads are Semi-Metalic. so u will get more dust. but it's worth it. Ceramic pads are cheap, I got mine for hmm 60 bux for front AND rear ? I have it on my 8 now but the stopping performance is so whack *** that when the summer is over I am going to throw those **** away and get either stock, Mazdaspeed, or something better. Oh 400 bux to change ? come to my place I change it for u for 200 bux. stock pads. no joke. and you will be out with new pads in about an hour.

6. Another "F" that bullshit, special my ***, just regular GL-5 LSD oil will work fine. Mobil1, Royal Purple, just about anything that's GL-5 for LSD will work. cost can go from 8 bux to 30. I just get Mobil1 75w90 LSD, works completely fine.

if u don't live so far I can probably do all the stuff they mention for less than 1/2 the price they quote you. jesus.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I do everything myself but there are people out there who can't do it themselves.

Rx-8 pads are Semi-Metalic so they stop better, but will have more noise and dust. It's always like that.

Stock pads are actually fine for stock even slightly modify 8. Anything more than that should go for higher drag pads. EBC sells good stuff. Mazdaspeed Bspec pads are rated much better than stock, etc etc.

RX8Soldier

iTrader: (24)

It's all in how you "read" the text. redline86 responded to you far more patiently than many others, and you toss it back in his face.

The question you asked is "opinion based". My opinion is: learn to do the work yourself by following redline86's sound advice, or else pay the pro's to do it (also, as redline86 implied).

Next time, don't read too much into what you get in a reply. You could find that it's not the door hitting you on the way out, that makes your butt so sore...

redline86

iTrader: (7)

If you have been on here a while then you should have known better than to start this thread in the first place. You have been a member of a car forum a long time and you don't know a good price for simple fluid changes? What I gave you was actually damn good advice. I did not insult you in any way.

RoscoeM

TY nycgps that was very insightful and I will take a look into your recommendations.

To the others, I am not saying I am mechanically dumb but when your not made of money like myself you cannot afford to **** something up therefore I just wanted insight into some of these points.

Thank you!

pistonhater

The only thing that seems incredibly unreasonable is the fuel system cleaning thing. that's just a joke. All other prices seem pretty 'standard' for what a dealer might usually charge for those services.

Keep in mind that none of the things you mentioned are 'rotary specific.' Any auto shop that can be trusted in your area could perform all those services for significantly less money than the dealer.

If you do that, then save even more money by bringing your own stuff to them: oils, pads, etc. You can probably get those cheaper online. They shop might just charge you a flat fee for labor since you are bringing all the materials.

Although these 'regular' maintenance items are not difficult to do, don't feel bad if you need to pay somebody to do it for you whether because you don't have the skills or the time to do it.