crossbow

Actually sue, this is a mazda6 forum. Were talking about synthetics in piston engines.

OMCWankel

Sue should be immediatly sent to BITOG and told to return in about a week.

I was actually a die-hard synthetic only user until I became BITOG educated. The current mineral/hydrocracked/synthetic blend oils are outsanding values, and do a great job of protecting the engine.

The type of oil you use is important, but so is proper maintanance and tracking UOA's.

runningnorthRX-8

I'm using Royal Purple synthetic in my 8-the stories of over-heated cars in the Las Vegas area concerned me alittle-my racing friends says this brand withstands far more heat than the regular mineral oils. We'll see in a few years what happens to my engine. The worst would be an engine replacement at $5600.00 according to my dealer....

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Quaker State Advance Q Full Synthentic Oil 5w-20 here.

Sue, Synthentic Oil is a Yes Yes For my Rotary.

bxb40

OK, I received a DVD from MNAO today. It says it contains updated procedures specific for the RX-8. Goes through the oil consumption, preventing flooding, starting if flooding does occur, and... synthetic oil recommendation.

According to MNAO, the seals of the Renesis are resistant to synthetic oils. But, they don't recommend it because they do not know the long term effects (maybe deposits? they don't mention details). So it is not forbiden (as in, voiding your warranty), just not recommended (so if after your warranty is over, you can have some gluey surprizes... so short term, during warranty, they know it is OK to run synthetic - after that, it's hit and miss but on your money).

All clear now

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Then we'll have to wait and see.

Im going to have my oil change either today OR tomorrow.

Of course, Im still using Full Synthentic, But this time, Im going to switch from Quaker State, to Royal Purple.

ayrton012

Maybe it's only a business thing. Mazda is the only (big)manufacturer who has rotary engined car. They can say they are the only one who knows which is the best oil for rotaries, and by this reason they can sell a lot of oil with profit to their dealers. Oil is a big business, and it's a money minded world!

They prefer Mazda Dexelia 5w-30 which is synthetic! Maybe it's hydrocracked mineral oil, but usually a truly synthetic motor oil contains 50%PAO, and 50% esters, so it has no effect on the seals, and more: as we all know the rx8's engine seals doesn't contain rubber material like earlier the rx-7s, so who cares about effect on "iron" seal?
Now I use Mobil-1 0w-30 Super Syn. (in Europe)

slavearm

30K miles of Royal Purple here... dealer flipped out on me once though. His "Tech" (IE MORON) said my warranty is now void.... so I had a long discussion with the Service Manager and Mazda DM, I then gave him a copy of the DVD as well as the documentation from Mazda saying it was ok to run synthetic in the 13B-MSP. I even went so far as to bring in pics of the Mazda Sythetic Oil for Rotaries. I told the "Tech" to read a book...

Meh... I hate stupid people.

Bart!

I've been using Valvoline SW-20 and it feels like it improved a few noises in my engine.

Bad_Karma_RX8

I have been using AMSOIL XL 5W-20 since my first oil change after I bought car.

CYRX8

hi guys.
i use Castrol GTX Magnatec 10w-40 .It might sound strange but the rough idle problem seems to be smoother with that oil!

PoLaK

iTrader: (1)

I didn't see if this was posted before frankly im tired of the debate.
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...2&postcount=74

rotarygod

Just to follow up on my own post and learnings from Sevenstock, I ran some experiments with various oils including Mobil 1 as to how well they mix with fuel. Every single oil I tested, synthetic or not, regardless of namebrand mixed equally well with fuel and never separated back out. Not quite sure as to why I was told some do mix well and some don't. Maybe some of the oils available in Japan don't have the same formulations as ours do but from testing I can tell you that there wasn't a single oil that I see an oil metering issue with.

PoLaK

iTrader: (1)

You say at the end of the post that you can mix dino with synthetic, or synthetic with another synthetic, why would this have been an issue in the first place?

rotarygod

I have no idea why there would be any issues. Every experiment I have run has shown everything to mix with everything else just fine.

PoLaK

iTrader: (1)

did you happen to test idemitsu and see any difference with them? They supposedly have different formulations for cars that run on methonal etc etc.

auzoom

I have heard People say its to do with the chemicals/polymers they use in different oils that shouldnt be mixed. I think its all a crock of crap personally. I think its just scaremongering to get that little bit more out of you. Thats why they lock in garages and dealers to their oil. Then you are stuck with topping up with their oil until your next full oil change.

Andrew

rotarygod

I haven't played with every oil out there. Just what I had lying around and a few others that I bought a quart of. I can't say that there are no oils out there that would have issues as I haven't tested them all. Everything I have tested including Mobil 1 has been fine as to how well it mixes with other oils and fuels. Talking to David at Royal Purple, even he can't see why any other oils out there would have any potential issues.

I have never used Idemitsu but I have seen an oil analysis of what it's made of. It's actually nothing special. I see nothing in it that would make it made for a rotary as opposed to one that isn't. It's got the same additives as most other oils. It does stand out in one way though. It contains unusually high levels of molybdenum which is a lubricant. The thing that concerns me about this is that this is a substance that can settle out over time. It's fantastic lubricating abilities are definitely why it was used. Since it was intended to be used in race cars, it isn't just sitting around long enough to settle out anyways.

This is one thing that I have seen in some of my oil tests over time but not in others. I have a couple of vials that have sediment at the bottom. They have just been sitting around for a couple of months with no movement. Unfortunately I need to do this as a separate test as I no longer know which vials are which oils and what types. From what I can tell though, it isn't a direct correllation between synthetic and conventional. When I have time, I'll investigate this further.

PoLaK

iTrader: (1)

perhaps you should get more then a vial that way after you've done you evaluation you can send it out to a testing company and we could get the %'s of various metals and compounds. not past ur bed time yet?

Send me an IM i have an idea for getting it done for free

rotarygod

The vials aren't just little test tubes. It's hard to describe what they are but I have alot of them. If I showed one to you and told you that Coke bottles start life as these, you'd be pretty surprised. They even still have the screw caps.

I have a few tests that I intend to run over time whenever I get around to it. One is going to be a controlled test with a heated pan to see which oils break down and coke and at what temperature. This will tell us which ones are more tolerable to heat. I do want to try the settling out test. That is more of a set it and wait type of thing. I am still going to try another fuel/oil mixture test but from what I can tell so far, they all seem to be fine. That was the original point of the test. It was to verify what I learned about Mazda's position on synthetics and unfortunately my results to this point have not been consistent with their statements. I'm sure they have tried more oils than I have though so I can't say they are wrong. Just that at this time my findings don't support theirs but tests are continuing. I may even try different oils with some engine o-rings sitting in them to see what the effects are. I'm really more concerned with that, fuel solubility, and breakdown temperature. Those alone will really effect what I like and don't like.

Gord96BRG

Perhaps you could try igniting a few, to dispell those stupid rumours that "synthetics don't burn as clean as mineral oils"?

rotarygod

If I completely burn the samples off in the pan, we'll see which ones leave more deposits.

ayrton012

Waiting for the results of your tests!

Now I use Mobil-1 0w-30 for about 4000 miles. It's OK, maybe it's not depend on the kind of oil ( OMP sensors?), but I have lower oil consumption with this oil.

PJ Yukiyu

I use syntec 5w20 and no problem. bearly oil consumption. I would like to know if I'm using the right formula. Since is a tropical Island, temp is hotter, therefore oil viscossity has to be different from manufacture's spec (based on american weather) 5w20.

Any ane can tell me which is the right oil for Puerto Rico? I not sure if I'm right or wrong.

Flop

Quite a few people are using 'thicker' oils in the warmer climates for additional protection. There is a page that one of our aussie friends published from their manual showing the different oil grades recommended by Mazda for different temps. I'd say you are in the 10W30 range?