twistedwankel

iTrader: (6)

http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.html

Additional gasoline retailers are added to the TOP TIER list as they meet the standards. The retailers known to be on the TOP TIER list are shown below.
TOP TIER Gasoline Retailers:

76Petro-Canada,Aloha Petroleum,Phillips 66,ChevronQuikTrip,Chevron Canada,Rebel Oil,Conoco,Road Ranger,CountryMark,Severson Oil,Entec Stations,Shell,Esso,Shell Canada,Exxon,Sunoco Canada,Kwik Trip / Kwik Star,Texaco,MFA Oil Co.,The Somerset Refinery, Inc.,Mileage Stations,Tri-Par Oil Co.,Mobil,Turkey Hill, Minit Markets,U.S. Oil


If you're lucky you have a few of these to choose from. At least you can stop buying fuel cleaner additives!!

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

^ Seems like marketing BS.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

top tier blah blah blah.

more like they rather spend top dollars on commercials than actually put more actual "good" stuff into their formulation.

Cuz people love to "See" things, they can see the commercials. No one can see what's in their gas. right ?

Just like Apple's products, lots of bullshit Im a Mac/PC (now gone I know), people "see" it and "believe it" guess what happens next ? They "buy" it.

GeorgeH

iTrader: (2)

So, you'd put just any 'ol gas in your car? Don't think there is a difference in quality?

If not, then how do you decide which gasoline to buy?

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

I think the quality of the gas station is more important than the gas brand itself. We have a local grocery chain called HEB (similar to Publix, IGA, Alerbertsons, etc.) that sells gas. Well, for the most part that gas was considered by most to be cheap, low quality gas due to the low prices they charge. Well, one of our local members works there in the gas division and guess what truck comes to fill their tanks? Exxon. So the same exxon truck that fills the fancy Tigermart stations fill the "cheaper" HEB stations. The HEB stations (and stores in general) offer a low price but they are also typically very clean, well run, etc.

That said, I try to only use the relatively new Shell station near my house.

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

Sticking with the oil debate, its almost that time again for me to stock on some oil for my upcoming oil change. I was planning on grabbing some more of the PYB 5/30 that I used last time since it was my first oil change. This thread gives you a ton to consider though. After sifting through all of these pages looks like I am going to give some Redline 5/30 a shot. I dont put too many miles on my car at once (heck I bought the thing with 15 miles on it in May and only have 4100 on the clock right now) so I dont mind spending the extra for some good oil. One thing I didn't really see (be gentle) is what is the main difference (if any) between early usage of synthetic vs later use? Is there any sort of metallic break in that occurs through the use of non / semi synths that would get interfered through the use of a full synth? I dont know if that question really even makes sense but figured I would throw it out there

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

The Redline is good stuff and can't hurt but the PP is some good stuff from the UOA's I've seen. Cost difference is really a non issue. I was going cheap for a little while using the very good Rotella T6 but switched back to the Mobil1. I just feel better using the Mobil1. I know that is retarded, but it's my money and my car

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

Very true, my personal debate was between the Amsoil signature 5/30 and the Redline 5/30 mainly because of their ester content and the benefits of it and whatnot over on the BITOG forums. Then again, with the low mileage I put on the car maybe I wouldn't even reap those benefits since people use esters and driving hard in the same conversation

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Just get Redline. For around the same amount of money, Redline is the best.

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

^ Thanks for the tip

WTBRotary!

iTrader: (6)

Royal Purple Cough... lol

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

We have Shell,BP,Mobil&Gull to choose from .
Of these the only commonly available 98octane(93 in US) is BP Ultimate . It is advertised as "very clean burning" and costs 40cents more /us gal than 95(US 91)

I have used it (pretty much) exclusively since fitting the turbo and never use cleaning additives.

twistedwankel

iTrader: (6)

http://www.chevron.com/products/prod...s/supreme.aspx

Okay so how does this stack up? It isn't like there is another Mazda dealer to go to where I live.

They use Chevron Supreme 5W-20. Recommended for Ford (Mazda of old) and Honda.

When I got home I let the car sit 5 minutes the oil was 1/4" over the top mark on the dipstick. Let it sit for a few hours and it's right on the top mark.

I thought this was a bad thing? Thought it was supposed to be 1/8" below the top mark when full and hot?

Apparently they do what we all do and instead of 3.7qts use 4?

They DO specify an oil change at 3k miles.

I had them change the trans/diff oil too (60k)and the car shifts much smoother.

ASH8

If it is only a 1/4", I would not worry, you will soon burn it off.

You cant really do any damage by a small overfill like that it is only about a cup or 200ml extra, I would not worry in the slightest.

As for a 5W20..not for me, IMO wont go the distance, by the time it has been used for a few thousand miles and fuel wash, it would be down to a 3W10..lol

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

So I am going to be feeding her some RP 5w30 either today or tomorrow after coming off PYB5w30. I have about 4300 on the odo. Is there any special tests anyone wants me to do before switching over? I have oil psi gauge recently installed .... temp wont be installed till during oil change. I can't really send my old oil to BSL this time around because I use an oil pump and I have pumped out different oils from different cars so that would F up the results. By my next oil change I will clean out my pump so i can send BSL a sample of my RP oil

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

Something rather interesting,.... my oil pressure band is a LOT better with RP than it was with Pennzoil. For example, on fully warmed idle i am getting about 30psi which is similar to my PYB psi, however, on highway driving I am getting a solid 90-100 and during aggressive driving I am getting 130+. The psi sweeps are a lot smoother whereas with the PYB the needle would kind of "hiccup" at points. I am not sure if this really means much at all, or if it is just due to a fresh oil change.

rx8t20046sp

This is from their site...i think its very informative so I thought I would pass it on.

If this has been posted already im sorry..I just didnt want to take the time to read 1,500 posts

Rotary Engine FAQs:

Can Royal Purple Motor Oil be used in a rotary engine?

Yes. A rotary engine is a modified four-cycle engine that recommends the use of an API-licensed motor oil for street applications.

More information and FAQs on lubrication of rotary engines.

In a rotary engine, the oil lubricates the eccentric shaft bearings, thrust needle bearings and rotor bearings (similar to a crank and rod bearing of a piston engine). It also is injected into the combustion chambers to lubricate the apex seals, corner seals, and side seals, all of which helps to create the sealing mechanism (the equivalent job of the piston rings).

Royal Purple provides outstanding protection for the e-shaft, rotor bearings and thrust bearings and is suitable for the oil injection system as it has proven to run cleaner than other oils and is an excellent choice for rotary apex seals, corner seals and side seals.

Mazda makes a statement in the Owner’s Manual not to use synthetic oils in a rotary engine, why do you say that it is OK?

Royal Purple has performed seal compatibility testing on the components used in a rotary with excellent results — including older rotary engine seals dating back to the Cosmo. Royal Purple’s Technical Services Manager David Canitz (who has been an owner and racer of rotary engine cars using synthetic motor oils since 1985 with excellent results) has been trying to find an answer to this Mazda statement for the last 18 years.

In the early development of synthetic oils decades ago, there were purportedly some seal compatibility issues. Today’s synthetic oils do not have the compatibility issues of the old oils. There is no substantiated evidence of seal compatibility issues with Royal Purple.

Here are some facts:

•The Mazda Factory racing departments recommend and use ‘synthetic’ oils including the winning 1991 Leman’s 20-G 4 rotor Mazda 787B.
•MazdaComp USA printed manual (now Mazdaspeed) recommends the use of synthetic oils for racing conditions.
•Royal Purple Motor Oils have been used in rotary engines (both race and street) for 10+ years with excellent results.
•Royal Purple Motor Oil is compatible with the bearing material, sealing elastomers and combustion seals used in a rotary engine.
I heard that synthetic oil doesn’t burn like mineral based oils and will coat the inside of the engine with deposits. Is this true?

If this was a problem with synthetic motor oils in general, then all internal combustion engines using a ‘synthetic’ would experience increased deposits on internal surfaces. The opposite is actually the norm.

Conventional four-cycle motor oils will typically leave deposits of carbon and ash when injected into the rotary apex seal, corner seal and side seal areas. Royal Purple’s motor oil burns cleaner due to its synthetic base stock being free of contamination and the fact that many of its additives are ‘ashless’. This may not be true for all synthetics but Royal Purple has been proven to work extremely well in rotary engines.

Royal Purple’s formulation of synthetic hydrocarbon motor oil burns at the nominal combustion temperatures experienced in both street and racing applications, whether normally aspirated, turbocharged or supercharged. (500 – 1700%°F idle to race rpms typical combustion temps)

Will the synthetic oil affect the oil seals?

No. Royal Purple’s motor oil is fully compatible with the elastomers found in rotary engines as well as more conventional piston engines. The oil seals, housing seals and other elastomers used in rotary engines typically consist of Buna N, Nitriles, Neoprene or Viton materials, which are also commonly found in piston engine cars.

I hear that synthetic is ‘thinner or lighter’ oil. Is there a greater possibility that the oil will leak between the seals?

No. If an engine’s sealing surfaces are in good condition, synthetic oil should not cause any leakage. However, if an engine has marginal seals, there is a 50/50 chance the seals will leak. A synthetic motor oil is going to have similar viscosity to that of a conventional motor oil – except at extreme temperatures. Due to a flatter viscosity curve, at low temperatures it will not thicken as much (easier winter cranking) and will not thin out as quickly at higher operating temperatures (better oil film at higher rpm).

Should I go longer or shorter between oil changes?

Royal Purple recommends that the maximum oil drain / filter change interval listed in the Owner’s Manual be followed while under warranty (new RX8). For FA, FB, FC, FC Turbos and FD rotaries, extending drain intervals from two- to five-fold is possible if desired. Since the rotary engine injects oil through the use of a metered oil pump, either adding oil into the carb base plate air / fuel mixture or directly injecting oil into the rotor housing, rotary engines will consume oil of one quart per 1000 – 3000 miles. It is important to maintain the proper crankcase oil level in your rotary engine if you decide to extend oil drain intervals.

If I pre-mix my fuel for the rotary engine, do I use the same ratio as with mineral based oils? Does it burn at the same rate?

In an ideal world, the rotary engine metered oil pump should inject an ashless oil designed to burn in the combustion chamber and use a four-cycle oil in the crankcase for the eccentric shaft, rotor bearings and thrust bearings. For the street, Mazda simplified the OE system to use just one oil, that being a typical four-cycle oil for both the e-shaft as well as the combustion chamber. Royal Purple recommends using our standard 2-Cycle TCW III if the metered oil pump is still enabled. The two-cycle oil being added to the fuel tank is in addition to what Mazda designed to inject and acts as a supplement or insurance. Depending upon which engine, the level of modifications (street port, Bridgeport, peripheral port, nitrous turbocharged) and application, the typical mix ratio could vary from 200:1 to 800:1.

For a pure racing application where the metered oil pump has been disabled or removed, again based on the actual engine and modification level, the ratio could vary from 150:1 to 600:1. For this application, we recommend our 2-Cycle TCW III Racing or the standard 2-Cycle TCW III.

A stock FD twin turbo 13B with the MOP oil injection system can typically use about one quart per 1500 miles under hard street driving. If this vehicle is getting 15 mpg, the gasoline to oil ratio is 400:1. If the oil consumption on this vehicle reduces to 1 quart per 2500 miles and fuel efficiency increases to 20 mpg, the gasoline to oil ratio increases to 600:1. The stock metering oil pump is a great system as it varies with throttle position (load on the engine). Pre-mixing has to be calculated for the ‘worst case’ that will be seen by the engine for that fuel load. Under racing conditions, that’s wide open throttle at racing rpms. This means that at idle, the ratio may be slightly fat (rich).

Nubo

So you cut and pasted the gigantic text as post 1543!

Lol.

Well, after 1500 posts here is are my conclusions:

1 - Do NOT use synthetic oil in the RX-8!!

2 - Use SYNTHETIC oil in the RX-8!!

Long live the debate!

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Peanut oil, or nothing

Hmm actually, sometimes I put lard into the tank and sump. Hmmmm smells like roast pork

Flashwing

Amazing that newcomers to this thread look at the 1,500+ posts and instead of taking the time to read the thread history is repeated.

It would be an interesting study to see at what point do threads begin to repeat history because people stop reading them through.

There is a lot of great information in this thread contributed by lots of individuals over the years. Read it!

azzuro

I'd say that point is about 1 post in.

It blows me away how little reading comprehension most members have to any online forum (although there's seems to a concentration on here some days).

Element81

I'll sum up this whole thread after having read it in the last few weeks. I knew nothing about rotarys prior to the last week in January when I started reading this site. This is just my interpretation.

Mazda hasnt fully tested synthetic oil so they do not endorse it for the rotary engine. They built and tested the engine with dino oil, 5w-20, so that's what they recommend. They didnt want to spend extra time and money to re-test it all over again and certify it for use with synthetic.

It would seem to me that there isnt a MAJOR difference between the two. Synthetic oil is probably the better choice for the long run because it's higher quality. Using something with a little more weight than the stock stuff isnt a bad idea either. 5w-30 or even 5w-40 if you do some really hard driving, especially in hot weather.

I'd say that you'll see a larger difference in how well you adhere to the maintenance schedule of your car. If you dont want to risk running synthetic, then dont. It's your car. Just make sure you stick to the proper maint schedule and check your oil levels frequently to keep it topped off AND make sure that the engine is actually consuming oil.

If you notice that your car isnt consuming oil then get it checked out. No matter what oil you are using, if the oil injectors are not working properly (system can get clogged) then your engine is not getting the proper lubrication for the seals.

Premixing is probably a good idea. Switching to the SOHN oil pump mod is probaby a better idea. This way you can bypass using engine oil altogether and use a synthetic 2 stoke engine oil that was MEANT to be burned in combustion.

But generally speaking, I didnt see any overwhelming evidence that modern synthetic oil harms the rotary in any way. So naturally, if its higher quality, more resistant to breaking down at higher engine temps, lubricates better... and doesnt appear to cause harm, then I'm going to use synthetic.

Lastly, a redline a day... dont forget to give the engine a bit of a workout periodically. These engines were made to rev, and it helps keep carbon buildup from becoming excessive.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

interpretation? you shouldn't made this post then.

bullshit, only tested with 5w20? then explain me why they recommend other countries to use 5w30 ?

They recommend something because people are lazy and stupid as %$#@ these days, if you show them a chart with a list of oil they will be like "WTF?"

Not to mention, 5w20 is the best thing to meet CAFE standard. That's exactly why they do it.

there IS a major difference, Sounds like you don't even know what they are.

Mazda's "recommended" maintenance schedule is 7500 miles every oil change. so you telling me that's "ok" ? Get some oil report before you spill more bullshit.

Thanks. Mr. Obvious.

Mr. Obvious #2.

But not everybody can install the SOHN adapter, or some people might be lazy(like me), so premix is a lot easier.

Mr. Obvious #3

Mr. Obvious #4

Rudolph

Quote:
Mazda hasnt fully tested synthetic oil so they do not endorse it for the rotary engine. They built and tested the engine with dino oil, 5w-20, so that's what they recommend. They didnt want to spend extra time and money to re-test it all over again and certify it for use with synthetic.




MAZDA SYNTHE-RENESIS RX-8 Special, 4L
Category: Gasoline Engine Oil.
Product Name: MAZDA SYNTHE-RENESIS RX-8 Special
Type: Full-Synthetic Motor Oil.
Part No: K004-W0-031
SAE: 0W-30
(MAZDA MOTOR CORPORATION began marketing licensed motor oil products on June 03, 1997 under a license issued by the American Petroleum Institute. Licenses are renewed anually if all requirements for renewal are met. This License and Agreement will terminate on June 03, 2011 unless extended by mutual agreement.)

http://jaytec-lubricants.com/index.p...roducts_id=177

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Yeah, that does not mean they approve all synthetics though. While I think Synthetic oil is fine, I understand why they do not recommend it. There are so many different brands and formulas. Synthetics such as Royal Purple do not meet certain industry standards.