Cumulative Synthetic Oil Discussion
10-30-2009, 12:01 AM
#1077
went back to srsly broke
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Ok! Good! Great! Follow the manual!
Stop bothering us non-manual following people. Until you develop a sense of logic, reasoning, and understanding of the differences between synthetic oils and non-synthetics, along with an understanding of how engine oils work, then you can come back and preach to us. So far you've shown none of the above, as you point to the manual for all answers.
Stop bothering us non-manual following people. Until you develop a sense of logic, reasoning, and understanding of the differences between synthetic oils and non-synthetics, along with an understanding of how engine oils work, then you can come back and preach to us. So far you've shown none of the above, as you point to the manual for all answers.
10-30-2009, 02:04 PM
#1078
Actually it's not, just the second sentence of that one paragraph you quoted. Stick with the details.
10-31-2009, 12:33 PM
#1081
Power!!
Secondly, the only known issue in the past from using syn was the apex seals on the rotors possibly deteriorating and losing seal. This was an issue (on 04-05 models I believe but was fixed afterward) and can easily be deterred with the Sohn OMP adapter which a lot of us use so we can give the engine syn oil which protects it a lot better as research has shown even with rotaries as well as feeding your apex seals proper oil that is meant for it such as, 2-stroke oil that was meant to be burned. 5w-20 oil or rather any oil not compatible for being burned does nothing helpful but rather can contribute to more carbon deposits.
04-08 only has two oil injection ports at the corners of the rotors. There is evidence of wearing in the middle of the apex seal. The '09 model and above have a third oil injection port at the middle of the apex seal. This has nothing to do with synthetic or the weight of the oil. It has to do with not getting enough oil on the wear surfaces of the rotor housings. The only current solution for this is premixing. You can search on this term to get more information.
The evidence we have that the 5-20 is not sufficient is based on few tear downs of some of the rx8s that showed pre-mature bearing surface wear for the e-shaft bearings. From this we're extrapolating that heavier weight oil or synthetic oil will protect the bearing surfaces better than the recommended dino 5-20. Whether or not this is true has yet to be proven out. But it's clear the 5-20 oil is not creating the film strength needed to protect the e-shaft bearings.
Dino vs. synth has nothing to do with the seals wearing prematurely though.
11-10-2009, 12:09 AM
#1083
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Similar topic and probably been asked on numerous occasions before but just to clarify.
I live in Thailand and own a RX8 09 import from Japan. Just had a oil change at 5K km which the garage used Mobil 1 10W/40 is this a recommended oil?
I live in Thailand and own a RX8 09 import from Japan. Just had a oil change at 5K km which the garage used Mobil 1 10W/40 is this a recommended oil?
11-10-2009, 09:25 PM
#1087
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Okay, so when a 2-stroke bottle lists a ratio on the bottle, like Amsoil Pro, is that the recommendation for how to mix with gas based on the density or viscosity of the premix; i.e. - a 50:1 contains more (or thicker) oil in the same amount of solution as a 100:1 premix? Sorry, I know it's drifting OT.
11-10-2009, 10:49 PM
#1089
Okay, so when a 2-stroke bottle lists a ratio on the bottle, like Amsoil Pro, is that the recommendation for how to mix with gas based on the density or viscosity of the premix; i.e. - a 50:1 contains more (or thicker) oil in the same amount of solution as a 100:1 premix? Sorry, I know it's drifting OT.
dont start when you dont know what you're talking about.
11-10-2009, 11:40 PM
#1090
Lubricious
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Last edited by Nubo; 11-10-2009 at 11:42 PM.
11-11-2009, 12:12 AM
#1092
Metatron
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Spirograph - the ratio (50:1 for instance) means fifty parts gasoline to one part oil.
So for 100:1 you would mix 50 liters of gas (≈one tankful) with 500 cc's of oil (≈one pint)
Most recommendations for a healthy RX-8 dose, is between 100:1 and 200:1
S
So for 100:1 you would mix 50 liters of gas (≈one tankful) with 500 cc's of oil (≈one pint)
Most recommendations for a healthy RX-8 dose, is between 100:1 and 200:1
S
11-11-2009, 07:33 AM
#1093
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However, that ratio on the bottle is for a 2-stroke engine that needs oil to lubricate the bottom end bearings as well as the piston/rings, etc, so as above you'll be OK with a lower mix, I use 125:1
11-11-2009, 07:57 AM
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Okay, so when a 2-stroke bottle lists a ratio on the bottle, like Amsoil Pro, is that the recommendation for how to mix with gas based on the density or viscosity of the premix; i.e. - a 50:1 contains more (or thicker) oil in the same amount of solution as a 100:1 premix? Sorry, I know it's drifting OT.
11-11-2009, 08:03 AM
#1095
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Just to clarify - 2 cycle oil label reads:
"Amsoil Saber Professional 100:1 Pre-Mix"
This is the oil recommended for small 2 cycle engines used in chain saws, blowers, snowmobiles, etc. This is NOT outboard motor oil!
"Amsoil Saber Professional 100:1 Pre-Mix"
This is the oil recommended for small 2 cycle engines used in chain saws, blowers, snowmobiles, etc. This is NOT outboard motor oil!
