dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Kevin .....I can send you larger ones...but they aren't great....they are camera phone pics

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

It's definitly condensation mixed with oil.......There is a perfect "still" in the area under the intake that this sits....the engine is warm...and the cooler ambient air is around the outside. Any condensation seems to sit in the flat area. I was shocked at how much crap came out.......the pictures show only what was stick to the walls.....I dumpted out considerable free water/goop mixture as well.

The area of the inside of the filler tube.....coupled with what I dumped out..there is over a cup of that crap in there...

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Dang dude--i may get sick doing this. That tube is easy to remove isn't it?
OD

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Look at the TSB for "dipstick frothaccino" and it willl show you. You need to remove black plastic part of the intake..and a few hoses..... The o-ring gaskets on the intake might need to be replaced if you pull it....but they should be OK.

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

I have pulled my UIM many times and I have it down to less than 30 minutes to R+R it now, and I have been able to re-use the o-rings over and over. Just don't get any oil or other chemicals on them or they might swell up. The tool to have to get the most difficult "screws"(as they are called) off is a 3/8" drive u-joint to use with the 10mm socket. The rest is easy.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

The only hard ones are between the manifold and the firewall. Like Charles said...A u-joint on a long extension will get at them.

The seals should be OK they are like oval shaped -o-rings and are quite substantial......

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

I forgot to mention the extension but another important point is the torque value of the screws. I cannot remember what the service manual says, and I haven't looked the value up either, but the screws don't require much torque when re-installing the UIM. The screws thread into the aluminum so make sure not to cross-thread them by hand-threading them as far as you can, them gradually bring them all up to torque evenly. With o-rings sealing both pieces of the manifold and the oil filler pipe it doesn't take much.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

well dont gross out but i sucked some out toniight. small vinyl tube --rammed it down there and got a good bit out. now when i insert (approx 18" or so) it comes back clean. let the jokes begin.
olddragger

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

Southern hospitality?

rxeightr

OD --
Tell me you did not learn how to do the tube thingy from your profession.....

Nemesis8

iTrader: (3)

So, should we officially call this stuff, "tube cheese"? LOL

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Gives me a whole new respect for my coronary arteries ....gotta get off the couch and increase the revs ........

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

switch to synthetic oil for your fried foods

Philip_SA

Wont a catch can inbetween the pipe from oil fill tube and the intake help to prevent some of this, catching a bit more of the snotty stuff, or condensation?

it cant be bad, it should help according to me

Philip

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

I think the crud happens because the venting is inadequate...a catch can won't help that. The condensation forms in that area cause the fill tube is the highest point of the "crankcase" system that is poorly vented. I think the fix that they have done...ie: using engine Vac to vent the area and burn it off makes sense.....it won't allow buildup of vapors in that area like the old system. As I mentioned before....it was like a big still.....a nice cool outside chanber with hot warm gasses on the inside. No wonder that it condensed water like it did

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

Good points, both Phil and Dan...