Condensation Scum in intake
12-28-2006, 12:36 AM
#1
Condensation Scum in intake + bonus!
Thought that I'd post pictures of my oil fill chamber on my air intake. This is the tube the oil runs down when you add oil........It is also where the condensation will form with the old style 04/05 breather system. The TSB for foam on the dipstick replaces this part and some of the Vac lines and solenoids that control the intake tract valves.
These pictures are after i had turned it upside down and tapped it and got about 2oz of water and "scum" out already...this is what was stuck in there
Enjoy
These pictures are after i had turned it upside down and tapped it and got about 2oz of water and "scum" out already...this is what was stuck in there
Enjoy
Last edited by dannobre; 12-28-2006 at 10:31 PM.
12-28-2006, 01:12 AM
#4
Thread Pirate, Ahhrrrrr
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Are you using synthetic oil? 
I had that scum on my dipstick. Took it in, the dealer fixied.
I now decree that all posts in this thread must start with, "Are you using synthetic oil?"
I had that scum on my dipstick. Took it in, the dealer fixied.
I now decree that all posts in this thread must start with, "Are you using synthetic oil?"
12-28-2006, 07:20 AM
#5
Maybe I ought to tell my dealer to perform that TSB too since they have my car. BTW, when I took my intake off to install the dual nozzles I saw that same condensation in my pipe. That was a while back and I was unaware that Mazda had changed their opinion on what was "normal".
12-28-2006, 04:00 PM
#10
That would be "implement", but you're right anyway. BTW, Dan, isn't it kinda senseless how Mazda located the oil filler neck over the center of the engine when the end-point was on the driver's side of the engine? Therefore, they had to design an extension tube for the filler neck? Why didn't they just take the shorter route and design a neck on the driver's side?
BTW, Dan, isn't it kinda senseless how Mazda located the oil filler neck over the center of the engine when the end-point was on the driver's side of the engine? Therefore, they had to design an extension tube for the filler neck? Why didn't they just take the shorter route and design a neck on the driver's side?
Last edited by Charles R. Hill; 12-28-2006 at 04:03 PM.
12-28-2006, 04:05 PM
#13
You guys are both valued members just the same! OD, and the rest of the ATL gang, treated me to some southern hospitality a couple years ago and I can't wait to get back to Road Atlanta to hang with all of those guys for a weekend.
12-28-2006, 05:40 PM
#14
Was this a symptom on your lose of power?
I quizzed "W" at the dealer, and he has only replaced one intake to date. Had to drop the engine to do it, but still only one. He said the APV's are getting all gunked up. His last engine swap, which he has done 5 to date, took him 7 hours from start to finish. Pretty fast swap!
I quizzed "W" at the dealer, and he has only replaced one intake to date. Had to drop the engine to do it, but still only one. He said the APV's are getting all gunked up. His last engine swap, which he has done 5 to date, took him 7 hours from start to finish. Pretty fast swap!
12-28-2006, 05:50 PM
#15
It's just the top of the oil filler tube to the engine....it sits under the plastic part of the intake.
For everyones info....the VDI that sits in the metal part of the intake...just below where the plastic intake attaches was perfectly clean. There doesn't appear to be any problem with this area getting carboned up.....
I wonder why they made such a convoluted oil fill tube?
I haven't noticed any changes in the engine since it was replaced
For everyones info....the VDI that sits in the metal part of the intake...just below where the plastic intake attaches was perfectly clean. There doesn't appear to be any problem with this area getting carboned up.....
I wonder why they made such a convoluted oil fill tube?
I haven't noticed any changes in the engine since it was replaced
12-28-2006, 06:22 PM
#16
On a different thread we were talking about how easy the wiring harness and small size of the engine make it an easy swap. Plus, in a conversation with JaxRX8, it was suggested that I use LC20 to clean the engine and see if my current issues aren't caused merely by stuck seals and use FP in the future, as well. The more I think about what I have put my car through and what is going on with it the more I am thinking that it really does need an "engine enema" to flush out a lot of things. There was a period where I didn't drive it for 6 months, except for a weekend around August 29, of last year and that is all part of these troubles. Just far too many changes in too short of a time for me to remember what the Hell has been happening. Maybe sitting for that stretch caused something to happen. Tomorrow I'll be ordering the LC and FP and see what it does for me. Let's cross our fingers.....
12-28-2006, 10:27 PM
#18
I have something new to report.
For the last 2+ years my car has been making a noise at 3700ish depending on load. It's kind of a rattle/squeel.... when the SSV opened. I had it in the dealer..and was told that it was normal. Even though it didn't do it when the car was new. I always thought that the SSV wasn't opening properly........
Since the replacement of the oil clogged oil filler tube and the SOLENOIDS that control the intake valves.............the noise has gone away.
I think the solenoid was full of crud...and it was making the SSV open slowly....an it would " squeel" when it stayed slightly open for longer than it should.
I hope this will turn into a better power curve on the next dyno...mine has always been a little off.
For the last 2+ years my car has been making a noise at 3700ish depending on load. It's kind of a rattle/squeel.... when the SSV opened. I had it in the dealer..and was told that it was normal. Even though it didn't do it when the car was new. I always thought that the SSV wasn't opening properly........
Since the replacement of the oil clogged oil filler tube and the SOLENOIDS that control the intake valves.............the noise has gone away.
I think the solenoid was full of crud...and it was making the SSV open slowly....an it would " squeel" when it stayed slightly open for longer than it should.
I hope this will turn into a better power curve on the next dyno...mine has always been a little off.
12-29-2006, 10:42 AM
#20
Registered
It's normal for the intake runners to be all black and varnished up. That's from fuel. Fuel actually gets to the entire intake manifold, even upstream of the injectors. The pulses from each rotor as the intake ports close is so straong that it moves fuel back and forth. It's this strong pulse on a rotary that makes intake tuning so effective. Any thick gummy material is not what you want to see.
12-29-2006, 11:39 AM
#22
Registered
I guess anything is possible. The thing is that all of your oil injectors are in the rotor housings. The RX-7's had 2 of them in the intake runners as well as even they never had an issue from this.
12-29-2006, 12:38 PM
#23
Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
Is it possible for the MOP oil to travel back up the intake in the same fashion without it coming from the filler neck vent tube?
It would be all over the throtle body then....and mine never was.
Swoope....neither
Not sure what you mean by the first one....but the second are the APV's...they are servo motor controlled
12-29-2006, 04:32 PM
#25
Well it seems as I too am infected with the gummy stuff. I dont know how much is in the neck but a quick diagnostic plunge with a piece of reliable wire revealed the snot stuff all over it. Now question is where the hell is this coming from? My engine runs better than it ever has. So no symptoms. Its the same stuff that used to be on the oil level stick.
Damn --another puzzle--Mazda ought to be paying us!
olddragger
Damn --another puzzle--Mazda ought to be paying us!
olddragger