Collapsed Motor Mount/Vibration
12-28-2011, 09:57 AM
#77
No need to lecture me....
On topic, are there other mounts/things that can cause drive line slop other than the engine mounts?
12-28-2011, 10:29 AM
#78
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Man, I can see myself screwing this up. Can I order a set of these on www.teamrx8.com?
12-28-2011, 10:32 AM
#79
Man, I can see myself screwing this up. Can I order a set of these on www.teamrx8.com?
12-30-2011, 06:26 AM
#82
Man, I can see myself screwing this up. Can I order a set of these on www.teamrx8.com?
send me the mounts and I will take care of the rest
12-30-2011, 06:38 AM
#83
I was going through my email thread notifications and saw that comment and wanted to point out that the gas cap is cheap so just replace it instead of dealing with cels.
No need to lecture me....
On topic, are there other mounts/things that can cause drive line slop other than the engine mounts?
No need to lecture me....
On topic, are there other mounts/things that can cause drive line slop other than the engine mounts?
The diff mounts also need to be addressed. The entire engine/trans/driveshaft-PPF/diff assembly are carried by the engine and diff mounts
and if you are racing or serious performance you would also want to replace the rear subframe rubber bushings with solid bushings to prevent the entire rear suspension and rear drivetrain assembly from shifting around under high loading. This is a fairly major job. Dropping the subframe is not too difficult. Getting the six OE bushings out is beyond most home mechanics. Especially the two forward ones because they are more less sealed on the top side, which prevents you from using that end to drive them out the bottom.
12-30-2011, 10:41 AM
#84
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http://www.thefreedictionary.com/engine
http://www.thefreedictionary.com/motor
An engine is a motor by definition.
But if someone said the motor in my car died it would be fair to ask, which motor? Blower motor, the engine, the window motor...? While if they said my engine died, one would reply "Those are under warranty for 100k miles you know"
12-30-2011, 11:16 AM
#85
dictionary's take on social conventions no matter how incorrect they may be, you can look up the word "ain't" too
http://www.beedictionary.com/common-...ngine_vs_motor
.
http://www.beedictionary.com/common-...ngine_vs_motor
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 12-30-2011 at 11:19 AM.
12-31-2011, 10:15 AM
#86
The diff mounts also need to be addressed. The entire engine/trans/driveshaft-PPF/diff assembly are carried by the engine and diff mounts
and if you are racing or serious performance you would also want to replace the rear subframe rubber bushings with solid bushings to prevent the entire rear suspension and rear drivetrain assembly from shifting around under high loading. This is a fairly major job. Dropping the subframe is not too difficult. Getting the six OE bushings out is beyond most home mechanics. Especially the two forward ones because they are more less sealed on the top side, which prevents you from using that end to drive them out the bottom.
and if you are racing or serious performance you would also want to replace the rear subframe rubber bushings with solid bushings to prevent the entire rear suspension and rear drivetrain assembly from shifting around under high loading. This is a fairly major job. Dropping the subframe is not too difficult. Getting the six OE bushings out is beyond most home mechanics. Especially the two forward ones because they are more less sealed on the top side, which prevents you from using that end to drive them out the bottom.
Ok, well I have noticeably more drivetrain slop when going on and off the throttle at speed than I used to.
I also get this vibration at slower speeds that almost feels like a bad u-joint or bent wheel in an old truck- but I don't always get that vibration/shimmy feel.
02-22-2012, 05:08 PM
#87
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Ok so I've had this excessive metal on metal rattling sound that occurs every time I go into reverse or drive from a stop, and every so often at idle the whole car will vibrate, but mainly on the passenger side.
I've noticed if I rev it while taking off in drive, it will minimize the vibration noise greatly, so apparently it is a mount. Now I had the dealer diagnose a bad engine mount on the passenger side, but that one was replaced with the updated one a few years ago, the dealer says that one is bad.
I had the wheels off the other day and was comparing the driver side and passenger side, and they look the same, so how can you visually tell that mount is bad when no oil is leaking, and it doesn't appear to be collapsed? I want to replace this myself, but don't want to waste the money on a new one if the mount isn't the problem. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
I've noticed if I rev it while taking off in drive, it will minimize the vibration noise greatly, so apparently it is a mount. Now I had the dealer diagnose a bad engine mount on the passenger side, but that one was replaced with the updated one a few years ago, the dealer says that one is bad.
I had the wheels off the other day and was comparing the driver side and passenger side, and they look the same, so how can you visually tell that mount is bad when no oil is leaking, and it doesn't appear to be collapsed? I want to replace this myself, but don't want to waste the money on a new one if the mount isn't the problem. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
02-25-2012, 05:50 PM
#89
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Bump. I'd like to order new mounts ASAP if they are indeed my problem.
So does a damaged mount have to be leaking oil for it to be bad? My dealer said the passenger side is bad, but no oil is leaking and it looks fine (I guess), so IDK what to really look for because nothing else is really obvious.
Is it true the mounts can just become soft overtime and cause the vibrations, although they look fine?
So does a damaged mount have to be leaking oil for it to be bad? My dealer said the passenger side is bad, but no oil is leaking and it looks fine (I guess), so IDK what to really look for because nothing else is really obvious.
Is it true the mounts can just become soft overtime and cause the vibrations, although they look fine?
02-28-2012, 11:20 PM
#90
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Ok guys... Ordered my new motor mount today and just trying to figure out how I'm going to replace it when it arrives?
So I hear everyone is using just a floor jack and some blocks of wood in between to lift the motor, but IDK if a floor jack will fit in my garage at my apartment complex? I also saw today at Kragen that they have trolley style jacks that seem to serve the same purpose, and are relatively cheap as well. Can a trolley jack with blocks of wood in between be used to the same effect as the floor jack?
So I hear everyone is using just a floor jack and some blocks of wood in between to lift the motor, but IDK if a floor jack will fit in my garage at my apartment complex? I also saw today at Kragen that they have trolley style jacks that seem to serve the same purpose, and are relatively cheap as well. Can a trolley jack with blocks of wood in between be used to the same effect as the floor jack?
02-28-2012, 11:51 PM
#91
between the flimsy motor mounts and flimsy differential mounts the drivetrain can twist so much that eventually the RH engine mount top will tear open from the excessive tension force. When you fill them with polyurethane per the DIY thread it removes a large amount of this motion and prevents that from reoccurring again.
02-29-2012, 12:29 AM
#92
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between the flimsy motor mounts and flimsy differential mounts the drivetrain can twist so much that eventually the RH engine mount top will tear open from the excessive tension force. When you fill them with polyurethane per the DIY thread it removes a large amount of this motion and prevents that from reoccurring again.
What about the answer to my question regarding using a trolley jack to lift the motor?
02-29-2012, 03:29 AM
#93
You don't know anyone with a floor jack, even a small, cheapo one like what you mention? It only needs to lift several hundred pounds a few inches. Otherwise that should work with a piece of wood. I have a 12 x 12 x 3/4 piece of birch plywood that I use, but a 2x4 the width of the pan will work just as well. It does need to be large enough to spread the load over the pan bottom.
02-29-2012, 03:52 AM
#94
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You don't know anyone with a floor jack, even a small, cheapo one like what you mention? It only needs to lift several hundred pounds a few inches. Otherwise that should work with a piece of wood. I have a 12 x 12 x 3/4 piece of birch plywood that I use, but a 2x4 the width of the pan will work just as well. It does need to be large enough to spread the load over the pan bottom.
Thanks again for the help.
03-01-2012, 07:18 PM
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did your idle sound like this? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5Ysh...ature=youtu.be
07-15-2012, 10:29 PM
#96
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Does anyone know where I can source 70a urethane to fill the mounts with? I drive my car fairly aggressively on the street, and figure 60a may be a little too soft, but 80a will probably be too hard since I'm planning to sell my car in the next 6 months. If 70a isn't available, how is the 60a holding up for you guys? I'm really sick of rpm dips from these crappy oem mounts that break all the time and want to fix this once and for all.
07-15-2012, 11:42 PM
#97
Does anyone know where I can source 70a urethane to fill the mounts with? I drive my car fairly aggressively on the street, and figure 60a may be a little too soft, but 80a will probably be too hard since I'm planning to sell my car in the next 6 months. If 70a isn't available, how is the 60a holding up for you guys? I'm really sick of rpm dips from these crappy oem mounts that break all the time and want to fix this once and for all.
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