Collapsed Motor Mount/Vibration
05-08-2011, 09:26 PM
#51
Manual trans engine mounts
RH - $126
LH - $106
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=214264
RH - $126
LH - $106
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=214264
05-14-2011, 02:48 PM
#60
Changing the motor mounts was not difficult... if you have the proper sockets/floor jack/jack stands.
It's definitely easier than changing the coil packs....
I bought my pass side mount from http://www.finishlineperformance.com.
Just don't use paypal... I had to because I had just cancelled my bank card -PSN thing- and was waiting for the new on.
If you pay with paypal, they can't give you a refund on returned items. Just a credit for other purchases.
Which is cool because I need a new gas cap (the small vapor leak CEL) and starter motor anyway.
It's definitely easier than changing the coil packs....
I bought my pass side mount from http://www.finishlineperformance.com.
Just don't use paypal... I had to because I had just cancelled my bank card -PSN thing- and was waiting for the new on.
If you pay with paypal, they can't give you a refund on returned items. Just a credit for other purchases.
Which is cool because I need a new gas cap (the small vapor leak CEL) and starter motor anyway.
05-15-2011, 09:48 PM
#61
Registered
not to take away from the topic of this but is that why that code comes up i got it last week the guy at autozone just said tighten the cap and the cel has yet to go away
05-16-2011, 10:36 PM
#63
Registered
^yes it cant be 2 mucj so ill go ahead and change it but i changed out my passenger side motor mount today and the diffrence is amazing only took about an hour for me who had no idea what i was to do
05-16-2011, 11:55 PM
#64
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I just brought my '04 in to the dealer. They said that the engine mounts were compressed. It didn't surprise me too much since I tore my engine mounts open every 10-15K on my last car which was an Eclipse, and the transmission mount every 30K. But the rotary engine is so light, I was hoping I wouldn't have to deal with this again. I don't currently have a garage to work in, so if I need to replace soon I'll finally ditch the oil, even if it has a rougher idle (mine is smooth).
I went in to look at the mounts. The mechanic showed me the passenger side mount, and said that it's compressed or collapsed. I was able to put the end of my index finger in between the metals, so I'd guess the mount is at about 1 cm or so. How tall are they when new, and how low until they fully collapse?
I went in to look at the mounts. The mechanic showed me the passenger side mount, and said that it's compressed or collapsed. I was able to put the end of my index finger in between the metals, so I'd guess the mount is at about 1 cm or so. How tall are they when new, and how low until they fully collapse?
08-04-2011, 07:44 PM
#66
bad motor mount???
When I first bought my '04 rx8 in may 2010 i had a dealer go over it, they said the motor mounts were bad so i had them replaced. Right now when you push the car over 5k rpm in every gear, i hear this not so good rattle on the left side, and of course it gets worse all the way to 9k rpm, this happened after I installed my typhoon intake, it really kills the the healthy engine noise, Im wondering if this would be fixed by replacing the left mount, I already ordered the part, but its only been a year should it already be bad? Too much maintenance on these 8's!
08-04-2011, 08:04 PM
#68
my last car had a similar problem.. once you rev it high enough the metal would vibrate together and cause a rattle because the rubber was so worn down, a lot of car shops could not find the problem until i met this random guy that took the bolt out of the mount and turned the rubber and that fixed the problem. Could it be my intake manifold falling apart?
12-26-2011, 06:23 PM
#70
bump, I recently made another set of filled engine mounts for somebody else so I revised the pics and description in my original posts to better describe and illustrate the process
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...3&postcount=35
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...5&postcount=37
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...3&postcount=35
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...5&postcount=37
12-26-2011, 06:52 PM
#71
Drilling holes is a waste of time Team, just take the whole damn plastic resonator off.
I too did a set recently and they were different. Both mounts had the second chamber exposed (and cracked in this case).
The hardest part is probably drilling the OE bolt location without screwing the threads.
I too did a set recently and they were different. Both mounts had the second chamber exposed (and cracked in this case).
The hardest part is probably drilling the OE bolt location without screwing the threads.
12-26-2011, 07:38 PM
#72
takes me all of 30 seconds to drill the holes by hand (it's just plastic) and I see no issue with leaving it intact to add additional rigidity and surface area for the urethane to bond to
you may have had old style mounts, hard to say, one of these was brand new, both are the same to the updated mounts that I did previously
you may have had old style mounts, hard to say, one of these was brand new, both are the same to the updated mounts that I did previously
12-27-2011, 05:51 AM
#73
Yes, they were from a 2004 car.
Anyway, the premise is that we're talking about nuances that probably don't affect the overall outcome.
However i have found the plastic to be extremely brittle, with a good hit on a screwdriver you go through the 3 sections with no effort. I wouldn't want it to crack once the poly is bound to it.
I have considered adding 2 rivets to the sides to give the urethane something extra to grip on but it looks like overkill. The most important part is lengthening the main bolt.
Anyway, the premise is that we're talking about nuances that probably don't affect the overall outcome.
However i have found the plastic to be extremely brittle, with a good hit on a screwdriver you go through the 3 sections with no effort. I wouldn't want it to crack once the poly is bound to it.
I have considered adding 2 rivets to the sides to give the urethane something extra to grip on but it looks like overkill. The most important part is lengthening the main bolt.
12-27-2011, 10:02 PM
#75
If you get that "gas vapor leak" code, just change the gas cap.
The earlier RX8s had an issue with the cap where the rubber tether attaches- which causes a leak and CEL.