This is not common because most 8’s had a recall fix for the milky residue on the oil dipstick that replaced these solenoids already and it appears that the replacement ones are of better quality. I have read the sticky and all the other posts that come up when you search regarding the RX-8 code p0661, which will give you a CEL. None of them gave me direction and location enough to fix it myself. That’s not to say their not out there, just that I didn’t find them. So I am writing this as a way to help the next guy and spare them the hassle and BS I dealt with.

Code ‘P-0661 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Low’ will usually have a 'Bank 1a' or something after it. I was originally informed that ‘Bank 1a’ referrers to the #1 rotor. Later in this thread I learned that is not true so I have edited this first post with the updated info. P0661 refers to the solenoids, but they are not rotor specific. the banks are solenoid specific. One is for your SSV, one is for your VDI, and one is for your air pump. It will make a difference in the part you work on since there are three of solenoids, all right next to each other. The code is for a valve solenoids on the intake manifold. They are not easy to get to but if you are mechanically inclined then you should have no problem. You will need to disconnect the throttle body and remove the extension manifold. This will give you access to the three valve solenoids.
From what I have learned it's a dealer item (KL01-18-741) and cost about $100. If you can find it cheaper post it here for others. The three solenoids are color coated Blue, White and Black. The mechanic at my dealer stated that the valve solenoid that corresponds with ‘P-0661 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Low Bank 1a’ is the White one. But he is also the one who told me that the banks were rotor specific so don’t take anything for granted. I hope this helps

 

Your timing is perfect! I've been trying to track down what this meant and although I saw other threads discussing CEL issues; Yours is the first post I've found that dealt directly with this particular issue.

Manythanks!

BTW: Here's a link to a PDF Shop Manual that illustrates the location of said valves relative to the intake. Between this and the information you posted; It should be easier to keep the service manager honest .( a forlorn hope at best but who knows?)

http://www.mazdarx8.org/wp-content/u...ine-Manual.pdf

 

your welcome

bla bla bla bla blab.....

 

Thanks for the link. I haven’t been able to get my printout in a small enough form to upload it to this post, but I'm still working on it.
Just a little something to think about,,, since the solenoid is hooked up to a vacuum line it would be prudent to check the line for any crack or breakage and to also check the electrical connections as well before purchasing one and replacing it.

 

here is the parts print out I got from the dealer. it shows the valve selonoids in relation to the rest of the parts in the manifold.

 

Thanks again. I've already traced the vacuum lines and electrical connections to the farthest extent possible short of dis-assembly ( currently living in a downtown hi-rise condo with sufficient underground parking to accommodate 1 car & 1 motorcycle ; I already get disapproving looks whilst cleaning the cold-air intake filter at the wash rack).

Although I found nothing. That doesn't preclude the possibility that I've missed it. Potential causes remain: 1). Vacuum leak, 2). Bad electrical connection , 3). Bad Actuator, & 4). Bad Solenoid.

Intuitively speaking , the 'low voltage' code implies problems of an electrical nature.
But, I can still use this info to try and keep the Service Advisor honest.

 

I checked over everything as well, cleared the CEL and then parked my 8 for two days while Sandy was here. After, I ran it for two days and have not gotten another CEL. Had to park it again due to a shortage of high test here on the island. Hoping it was just the connections but only time will tell.

 

I am just getting this code for the first time. After reading a few posts I am thinking a little in the vacuume line might help. If the valve is sticking and functioning part time that will suck it through the valve. Any thoughts on this? I don't imagine a few drops of triflow could hurt.

 

go to another thread then because this one is complete BS as pointed out by nycgps

the OP is using a generic OBD2 code reader which does not provide the correct info and is the only one responsible for blah-blah-blah cluelessness

 

Turned out it was the solenoid. $ 300.00 parts & labor. Problem solved.

 

Damn, $300 for parts and labor? I paid $40 for mine and even made the DIY to removing the UIM.

 

Great info , after the fact. Don't know that I'd have attempted it ( limited shop facilities at the condo). Too bad the Trolls were more interested in slamming 'newbies' than offering any coherent information

In any case , I was able to use Titanium Grey's info to reduce the cost from $475-600+ ( from the DIY thread) to $300.

 

Too bad the Trolls were more interested in slamming 'newbies' than offering any coherent information



Alas, twas always thus.

 

Grace Excel.
Thanks for the help. Hope I can return it sometime.
I read your post and although the code was different I'm wondering if the part you needed was the same? And, if you can you let us know how you got your part for $40, My dealer wants way more.

Seems like my CEL is back and I will have to do more then just rescuing connections and lines. your post helps.

 

What other thread are you referring to?
My code reader is generic, but my dealer’s is not. Sill, thanks for that little tid bit.

 

from the shop manual;

DTC P0661: SSV solenoid valve control circuit low

The PCM monitors the SSV solenoid valve control voltage when the PCM turns the SSV solenoid valve off. If the control voltage is less than 5.8 V, the PCM determines that the SSV solenoid valve control circuit voltage is low.

since the PCM grounds the solenoid, this means that for some reason that the PCM is not seeing power FROM the solenoid. its a fancy way of saying there is a problem in that circuit. its either a bad SSV solenoid, connection, or wire to or from the solenoid.

 

thank you for this help.
it will save people from going over unneeded areas.
is the shop manual posted here or anywhere that you know of.

Angelo

 

do you realize you have posted 11 times in this thread?

 

Every Mazda I've owned in the past 5 years has had a p0660, which is closely related to this. I've yet to find out what the problem is on the other cars. It will not illuminate the MIL, but it's always there. It's annoying just knowing it's there. I'm an ASE certified tech and have yet to find an actual problem. I haven't actually checked the DTCs with anything other than a code reader, but if I do and I retrieve this code, I'll be pissed because I'll start spending a ton of time looking for a solution.

 

if you see Bank 1 or 2 it means you don't have a fully compatible OBD2 scanner for this vehicle, trying to assist someone with a generic scanner is an even longer shot than the typical intrawebz analysis

 

My dealer tech told me the banks (1+2) repersented the rotors.
And has been who I have checked everything with, I have found thus far.
Up till now I had no reason to question him.
I will have him put my 8 on his mazda scanner before going any further.
and I will look into getting the proper scanner for myself.
thanks for the info.

 

Just found this by accident and it really made a difference in the search results. forgive me cutting it down to fit here, but I thnk it needs to get out there more.

 

if it is actually P0661 it has nothing do with being either rotor

 

I found this and the pics on other threads. hope they help.

 

I have the new solenoid but have yet to put it in because I am not having any issues with performance, except for the CEL. my 8 still runs the way it always has. I am not getting any power loss, rough idling or flooding issues. Since I found the better way to search I have gone from finding 3 threads on the subject to 25 threads. at first I thought I was bound to find a definitive answer in one of them. what I have found is that most threads end when people find there fix but they seldom log back in to let people know if they work. I have checked all my connections and yet my code keeps clearing itself for a few days and then comes back. I'm thinking it could be a chafed or partially cut wire in the harness. as long as my 8 is still running fine I will wait till I have warmer weather to start taking it apart. I will post what ever I find