That's the best you got?

 

coolant is unlikely to produce a green buildup color on a spark plug

1 + 1 = 3 fail

 

1 and 1 is 11. WIN!

 

Seemed smooth this morning.

 

Here is L1 after 516 miles. Note, I drove it about a mile to a friends house to do the work, which is why I think the plug is wet. Smelled like old gas, wiped clean.

L2 looked identical.

 

Yeah, I've never seen plugs turn a color outside the greyscale range. I know green isn't the color of burnt coolant, but there are only a few fluids that can be getting into your combustion period.

Unless you have different air, difference gasoline, and/or different oil down there. Two sets of plugs confirms it's not something odd with the previous plugs.


Something looks odd about the lastest leading plug, but maybe it's the camera angle. It doesn't quite look the same as the original leading plug in dimensions of the various details around the tip. Gaps, diameters, etc...

I assume the plug boxes in the original pic were the boxes to the set that is in now, so I don't think you got the wrong plugs, but something still seems a tad odd about them (other than the green).


Another though... Maybe something is going on electrically? Does that plug wire have anything going on with it? Try moving the L1 wire to the T1 plug (and the T1 coil), and move the L1 coil to one of the two rear rotor coil spots. See if the problem moves or stays with that plug.

 

A couple of things.

First NGK suggests a green color can arise from oxidation (lean mixture) and/or overheating of the electrodes.

NGK Spark Plugs USA

This is a neat guide to reading plugs and plug tech in general. Search "green". It's suggested the green can come from an excessively rich mixture or cold idle creating a soot layer, followed by a burn off when the engine heats up or is run hard afterwards.

***The Basics of Reading a Spark Plug*** - Honda-Tech

I used to run into green plugs pretty often in airplane engines, but that's a different ballgame.

 

Good info HiFlite.

I see these as viable from the first list:

 

Thanks for that info, I'll read it today.

As far as the other stuff..

Chevron 93*,same station, same pump 99% of the time.
Castrol gtx 10w40, topped off with 20w50.
Lucas 2stroke

I probably do all the "do not do's" when it come to owning a rotary.
It's my daily commuter, I do some deliveries in it, stop n go traffic in high heat, and and plenty of short trips.

Thankfully when the time comes and she dies ill be ready financially.

 

The discoloration supports the corrosion theory. My positive battery terminal was corroding a few months back and the color was identical to that green displayed in your photos.

 

Hmmm.. I am at a loss, but I would love to hear what is causing it once you find out.

 

needs a better ground?

 

When my first engine started leaking coolant into the combustion chamber my plugs looked like that but worse and I would smoke up the whole parking lot at my apartment when I started the car in the morning. I would also be able to smell it burning inside the car, it has a very distinct smell that is completely different than oil or fuel burning. After disassembling that motor last week I found that the Inner water jacket on the front housing, center iron side was broke apart and left about a 1.5" gap for coolant to leak into. I would use your cobb ap and monitor your AFR just to make sure you arent running rich to rule that out.

 

Bad grounding could be the culprit, I been wanting to do the big 3 upgrade (4ga wire, 1 alt to positive terminal, 1 chassis to negative terminal, 1 Engine block to negative terminal) and this gives me a excuse to do it.


I did pull out the old original plugs and looked at them, they do not have this corrosion on them, but I have no clue on their history. I just changed them along with the coils when I bought the car as preventive maintenance. And it was a night a day difference after the fresh ignition.


From what I've read on the honda link, it seems like I should run a colder plug since majority of my driving is city/low rpms. But I might risk detonation on those days I really get to drive her hard.


Did a little google searching and on a LS1 forum a member mentions it could be from running injector cleaner prior to changing the plug, which I did do plus I seafoamed right before changing the plugs. Thats something I didn't do on the last set which do not show the green tint. I also put about 100 miles on the current plugs while running the last bit of injector cleaner out the car.

So the first 100miles or so the plugs saw injector cleaner, next 200 miles they saw my normal pre-mix (8ozs) then on the last tank it was straight gas. I'll stick with straight gas for the next couple of tanks and recheck the plugs and report my findings.

 

I have notice that if I actually use fuel with ethanol I get a build up on my plugs but if I use ethanol free fuel its not as bad or non-existent

 

Maybe try not running any additives for a while or sea foaming. I've always been of the mindset that if it isn't oil, gas, or coolant then it doesn't need to be in the engine as long as routine maintenance is performed :-/

 

:facepalm: gee, can't imagine why you are having deposit buildup issues ...

 

Care to explain team?
Is it this specific brand?

 

Hotter, not colder, a "6" vs a "9", in NKG speak. IIRC, Mazda early on had people switched to the "6" plugs in response to flooding issues.

 

lucas 2stroke... different strokes for different folks lololol

 

It's not the brand, and I know where TEAM is probably going, but I'll sit back and see if I am right.

 

clean the green off and try and different 2 stroke oil. bet it stops discoloring.

 

I'm not sure if Team will answer as to why.

And I been running straight gas since.

Team recommended Amsoil Saber Pro, but I might just bite the bullet and go with a case of Idemitsu. It's half the price of Amsoil.

 

Probably because he's explained it in the other 99999999999999 million oil/premix threads on this forum.

Search.

 

I have been searching, and while I found a few threads on him recommending saber pro, nothing as to why I shouldn't use Lucas. Just a bunch of people posting they do use Lucas.