Changed plugs today, found something odd...
#31
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Yeah, I've never seen plugs turn a color outside the greyscale range. I know green isn't the color of burnt coolant, but there are only a few fluids that can be getting into your combustion period.
Unless you have different air, difference gasoline, and/or different oil down there. Two sets of plugs confirms it's not something odd with the previous plugs.
Something looks odd about the lastest leading plug, but maybe it's the camera angle. It doesn't quite look the same as the original leading plug in dimensions of the various details around the tip. Gaps, diameters, etc...
I assume the plug boxes in the original pic were the boxes to the set that is in now, so I don't think you got the wrong plugs, but something still seems a tad odd about them (other than the green).
Another though... Maybe something is going on electrically? Does that plug wire have anything going on with it? Try moving the L1 wire to the T1 plug (and the T1 coil), and move the L1 coil to one of the two rear rotor coil spots. See if the problem moves or stays with that plug.
Unless you have different air, difference gasoline, and/or different oil down there. Two sets of plugs confirms it's not something odd with the previous plugs.
Something looks odd about the lastest leading plug, but maybe it's the camera angle. It doesn't quite look the same as the original leading plug in dimensions of the various details around the tip. Gaps, diameters, etc...
I assume the plug boxes in the original pic were the boxes to the set that is in now, so I don't think you got the wrong plugs, but something still seems a tad odd about them (other than the green).
Another though... Maybe something is going on electrically? Does that plug wire have anything going on with it? Try moving the L1 wire to the T1 plug (and the T1 coil), and move the L1 coil to one of the two rear rotor coil spots. See if the problem moves or stays with that plug.
#32
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A couple of things.
First NGK suggests a green color can arise from oxidation (lean mixture) and/or overheating of the electrodes.
NGK Spark Plugs USA
This is a neat guide to reading plugs and plug tech in general. Search "green". It's suggested the green can come from an excessively rich mixture or cold idle creating a soot layer, followed by a burn off when the engine heats up or is run hard afterwards.
***The Basics of Reading a Spark Plug*** - Honda-Tech
I used to run into green plugs pretty often in airplane engines, but that's a different ballgame.
First NGK suggests a green color can arise from oxidation (lean mixture) and/or overheating of the electrodes.
NGK Spark Plugs USA
This is a neat guide to reading plugs and plug tech in general. Search "green". It's suggested the green can come from an excessively rich mixture or cold idle creating a soot layer, followed by a burn off when the engine heats up or is run hard afterwards.
***The Basics of Reading a Spark Plug*** - Honda-Tech
I used to run into green plugs pretty often in airplane engines, but that's a different ballgame.
#33
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Good info HiFlite.
I see these as viable from the first list:
I see these as viable from the first list:
Lead Fouling
Lead fouling usually appears as yellowish brown deposits on the insulator nose. This can not be detected by a resistance tester at room temperature. Lead compounds combine at different temperatures. Those formed at 370-470°C (700-790°F) having the greatest influence on lead resistance.
Lead fouling usually appears as yellowish brown deposits on the insulator nose. This can not be detected by a resistance tester at room temperature. Lead compounds combine at different temperatures. Those formed at 370-470°C (700-790°F) having the greatest influence on lead resistance.
Erosion, Corrosion and Oxidation
The material of the electrodes has oxidized, and when the oxidation is heavy it will be green on the surface. The surface of the electrodes are also fretted and rough.
The material of the electrodes has oxidized, and when the oxidation is heavy it will be green on the surface. The surface of the electrodes are also fretted and rough.
#34
Thanks for that info, I'll read it today.
As far as the other stuff..
Chevron 93*,same station, same pump 99% of the time.
Castrol gtx 10w40, topped off with 20w50.
Lucas 2stroke
I probably do all the "do not do's" when it come to owning a rotary.
It's my daily commuter, I do some deliveries in it, stop n go traffic in high heat, and and plenty of short trips.
Thankfully when the time comes and she dies ill be ready financially.
As far as the other stuff..
Chevron 93*,same station, same pump 99% of the time.
Castrol gtx 10w40, topped off with 20w50.
Lucas 2stroke
I probably do all the "do not do's" when it come to owning a rotary.
It's my daily commuter, I do some deliveries in it, stop n go traffic in high heat, and and plenty of short trips.
Thankfully when the time comes and she dies ill be ready financially.
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When my first engine started leaking coolant into the combustion chamber my plugs looked like that but worse and I would smoke up the whole parking lot at my apartment when I started the car in the morning. I would also be able to smell it burning inside the car, it has a very distinct smell that is completely different than oil or fuel burning. After disassembling that motor last week I found that the Inner water jacket on the front housing, center iron side was broke apart and left about a 1.5" gap for coolant to leak into. I would use your cobb ap and monitor your AFR just to make sure you arent running rich to rule that out.
#39
Bad grounding could be the culprit, I been wanting to do the big 3 upgrade (4ga wire, 1 alt to positive terminal, 1 chassis to negative terminal, 1 Engine block to negative terminal) and this gives me a excuse to do it.
I did pull out the old original plugs and looked at them, they do not have this corrosion on them, but I have no clue on their history. I just changed them along with the coils when I bought the car as preventive maintenance. And it was a night a day difference after the fresh ignition.
From what I've read on the honda link, it seems like I should run a colder plug since majority of my driving is city/low rpms. But I might risk detonation on those days I really get to drive her hard.
Did a little google searching and on a LS1 forum a member mentions it could be from running injector cleaner prior to changing the plug, which I did do plus I seafoamed right before changing the plugs. Thats something I didn't do on the last set which do not show the green tint. I also put about 100 miles on the current plugs while running the last bit of injector cleaner out the car.
So the first 100miles or so the plugs saw injector cleaner, next 200 miles they saw my normal pre-mix (8ozs) then on the last tank it was straight gas. I'll stick with straight gas for the next couple of tanks and recheck the plugs and report my findings.
I did pull out the old original plugs and looked at them, they do not have this corrosion on them, but I have no clue on their history. I just changed them along with the coils when I bought the car as preventive maintenance. And it was a night a day difference after the fresh ignition.
From what I've read on the honda link, it seems like I should run a colder plug since majority of my driving is city/low rpms. But I might risk detonation on those days I really get to drive her hard.
Did a little google searching and on a LS1 forum a member mentions it could be from running injector cleaner prior to changing the plug, which I did do plus I seafoamed right before changing the plugs. Thats something I didn't do on the last set which do not show the green tint. I also put about 100 miles on the current plugs while running the last bit of injector cleaner out the car.
So the first 100miles or so the plugs saw injector cleaner, next 200 miles they saw my normal pre-mix (8ozs) then on the last tank it was straight gas. I'll stick with straight gas for the next couple of tanks and recheck the plugs and report my findings.