about to get mine rebuilt . The guy doing it has built quite a few rotaries . Anything I can tell him to watch out for that is different to a rew rebuild ?

 

Every household needs two.

 

I actually found it easier to do than the older 13B w/ the water jacket o-rings being on the rotor housings. Made the centre plate a cakewalk to get on.

Let me think here... apex seals are shorter and a bit more difficult to get apex seal springs underneath once they're already slotted into the rotors placed into the rotor housing. Oil control rings the same 'cept the addition of the outer scraper. Easy to put in though. Bearings press the same as the REW ones. Make sure the front stationary gear bearing is atleast flush with the thrust washer land on the gear or it'll shorten the stack! Corner seals are identical so no change there. Three tension bolts are longer than the regular, shorter 17 (easy to notice where they go) but torquing order is the same. It assembled basically the same as the 13BT/REW.

B

 

cool - i'll tell him he can charge me less

 

Yeah, don't let anyone rip you off on the short block assembly. It's the same length of time. I was around the 6hr mark I think including bearing press, pilot bearing, and front/rear main seals.

B

 

he told me about 12 hrs for the whole job if i bring him the short block .
dissassembly - get me over to discuss and order parts then assemble when parts arrive .

 

That's a bit lengthy IMO. Took me about an hr 1/2 w/ air tools to zap it all apart.

B

 

they did make a 4 port in 2003 2004 and 2005

 

he better know what hes doing with the side seal clearance on these AND know that they are letter matched

 

Is it a 4-port in the same sense as the older turbo motors? Have any photos handy?

B

 

Tear-down pics of a 4 port can be found in this thread:

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/117k-mile-renesis-teardown-161105/

 

i just want to buy a new engine so I can take mine out and do this. Thanks for all the pics.

 

Its not what you are thinking Brian, it is basically the renesis 6 port engine, with the 2 auxiliaries blocked off. The secondary ports are not big like a 13bt/rew. The secondary runners on the 4 port are tiny, smaller than a 13bt. Basically if yo look at the 6 port intake manifold you have there and imagine it without the auxiliaries, that is a 4 port. I can take some comparison pics if you want.

BTW I was told several weeks ago that you wanted to speak to me?

 

Yep Fred showed me pictures of it after I'd made that post and yep you're right; it's not comparable at all to the older 4-port engines. Oh well. This 6-port will just have to do then.

Don't recall needing to speak to you but I'll give you a call nonetheless.

B

 

Shall I tutor you on this? I can do it in mere SECONDS and I don't believe I follow the servoce manual in doing so.

 

ONLY if a rebuilder wishes to trust Mazda's clearancing which, after doing a few myself, I DO NOT. Therefore, I hand-cut the side seal clearances on each rebuild.

 

Any merit to doing a little porting while it's apart - not like you did Ray . Thinking about minor radiusing etc

 

Re-sizing the ports isn't what gave me my enhanced torque curve. It was the backfilled radii that did. Smooth transitions and rough surfaces (boundary layer effect) are all that is needed.

 

I think it's a good idea but I didn't have an opportunity on this one to do that, unfortunately. Perhaps next time!

One thing that's positive regarding porting and the Renesis -- atleast there's less housings to ship for port work -- 3 instead of 5!

B

 

It only takes me a few seconds per seal too. I was just commenting on it being a bit more difficult because (I think) the apex seal groove is shorter on this motor than the older 13B's. The method I use is placing the rotor inside the chamber w/ the apex seals already in sans springs. I know some folks do the whole fully assembled rotor w/ rubber bands thing but I've never used that.

B

 

I install the small spring, slide the seal in slightly past halfway, then install the large spring.

Peace out.

 

I fully build the rotors minus apex springs, install them in the housings, then remove corner seal one at a time when sliding the springs in place, then replace the corner seal. On the older rotaries this is unnecessary because the "plug" in the corner seal is easily removable from the outside, is soft enough to "give" to let the pick slide down far enough, or is often left out altogether. While the renesis "plug" is metal and can only be removed from the back side of the seal, so the whole seal has to come out.