I'm looking to buy a Series 1 used engine and swap in Series II Rotor Housing (with 3 oil injectors each, no plugging), and other parts as well.
Is it possible and how do I swap in the new Series II OMP, Oil Pump, Oil Sump Pan, Oil Sump Baffles, Oil Pressure Sensor, Intake inlet with new valves into the Series I RENESIS Engine?

I plan to put this into a NC3 Miata which shares similar electronic with series II, such as DSC, ABS, TPMS, Transmission, etc.

The reason I want to use Series I Engine as base is for easier hardware and tuning support.
But I want to use Series II parts where I can. (Not sure about DSC but Series I may work?
Thank you.

 

You would literally need to swap in the entire S2 engine, electrical harness with instruments/controls, computer, and so on because there were many changes made on the S2 that aren’t directly comparible on the S1. Not really practical or possible. Most of that has been discussed in length on here in multiple threads and not worth rehashing just for you to finally accept that this idea isn’t feasible.

 

the only peroson i know of that used s2 housing (only housings) in a s1 build was mazdamaniac. sh did some weird **** to split the omp lines for the 3rd injector. he ended up wasting that engine at a track day tho. this was many years btw

 

Rotary Engines .com also say that I can definitely put the S2 housing into S1, with the third oil port taken care of one way or the other of course.
I plan to use SOHN to pump to all three, will probably use a rail or something to give equal pressure and length to all three injectors. Maybe use tune and OMP piston size mod to increase flow.

Just wondering if newer (possibly better?) S2 oil pump and etc fits.

 

Literally none of that fits. The S2 has 2 electronic oil pumps, as opposed to S1's single mechanical pump. Your S1 ECU won't know what to do with them.

I'm not sure how you see the Sohn working, but it's just an adapter for the stock OMP system to get oil from a different place, it changes nothing about how the oil is delivered to the housings.

Just premix. Far cheaper and more effective solution to the same problem.

 

Here's some news for ya ..... Latest info from engine rebuilders suggests that the S2 engines wear out just as quick as the S1 and the third injector/revised omp does absolutely nothing to help with this!

https://www.facebook.com/groups/Pure...epa=SEARCH_BOX

 

Thanks. I requested to join and read up.

 

Just be careful... Most of that group wouldn't know a rotor housing from a hole in the ground.

 

Be it S1 or S2 housings, there is less chrome plated material in all renesis engines. Any expectation of reusing the housings on a rebuild (due to flaking) with a high mileage renesis is asking a lot. What ECU are you planning to run? if you are planning to run a standalone, I'm not sure of one that supports the S2 OMP. If you plan to somehow use a stock S2 ECU, then you can use mazda edit to tune, but at that point you may as well use a complete S2 block. No advantage to a hybrid S1/S2.

S1 will be a much easier swap, unless you plan to remove the OMP and only premix, but this also defeats some of the purpose of swapping to S2 housings. I have almost 90k miles on my S1 half bridge engine, it's still running great, starts first key every time (unless the plugs are fouled), and I don't premix ever. I've just increased the OMP flow through a tune, and change / monitor my oil religiously. So really it's just whatever your comfortable with.

Premixing is a hassle to me on a street car. I will, however, premix on my 20b, because the iRotary apex seals were designed with premix at specific levels in mind for lubrication, so the seal material was designed to be used with premix. Will premixing hurt your motor? Most likely not, but I question it's added benefit in a stock-ish street car.

 

Don’t be that dufus; gave it to you straight in the very first reply.

 

Thanks. Same idea here to avoid premix to make the car street use friendly and have long life. I plan to use S1 ECU and wiring. It will be a used S1 block and S2 housing that is going to be new (to spread oil evenly), SOHN to put in 2 stroke from a clean tank, and modified OMP pistons and ECU tuning to make sure there is increased amount of oil especially for below 5,000 RPM.

Reason I asked which S2 part I can get on critical areas is because I assume some revised parts may work better, IF they swap in straight forward, like oil pan with better baffle and a magnet, etc.
This engine will be built piece by piece with new parts where I can, so I'm looking at all options.

 

You need to step back and learn/educate yourself first. Not trying to beat you up, but you don’t understand the particulars of this application at all and most of the stuff you’re going on about is just a waste of time and money. You’re not the first person to think like this nor the last one likely to crash and burn like the others did. Even some of the people responding to you here are not being fully straight up with you or are not as informed as they think they are. Talking about porting and such when they never even made the power level that a good, strong stock engine should make. We got lots of those folks in here. This engine is not going to respond like using the same common/standard theories that apply to other engines. There’s a reason RX8s sell for dirt cheap with bad engines. Simply spending money on the wrong things is setting you up for a bad fall. Want a good engine? Buy new parts, not that used crap you’re looking at. That’s one of the biggest mistakes people make right off the bat, just like you’re doing. New rotors, new housings, new oil injectors and so on. I never had all that crap you’re fixated over; You’re not doing something different or better. You’re just making the same mistakes other people made.

The foolish man makes the same mistakes over and over again and suffers for it

the smart man eventually learns from his mistakes, but not without a cost.

But the wise man learns from the mistakes of others ... be the wise man.

 

The S1 OMP has 2 oil outputs per housing.
The S2 OMP has 3 oil outputs per housing.

How are you going to ensure equal output across all three nozzles from two inputs?

 

Combine two into one small tank, similar to online fuel filter, put out one hose that split into three. Make sure all hoses have equal lengths to all injectors and both housings. Some say rear one with longer hose gets less oil due to pressure from more liquid in lines.
OMP without mod is definitely not enough flow for sure. They will be getting more flow.

If possible, I'd be pumping in from external electric pump tied to the engine RPM or fuel injector voltage.