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anyone seeing 200F oil temps now?

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Old 01-13-2010, 03:27 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by olddragger
When I check the oil on all my other cars (4) none of this stuff is there. They have recip engines.
OD
The factory 2 oil coolers system is not only too restrictive against flow, even it's integrated (in the coolers) thermostat is not working well. It opens partly at too low temps.
Old 01-13-2010, 06:52 AM
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My car is cooling too much as well with the open oil cooler vents.
I'm using some tape to cover everything and do some more tests, 70°C water and oil temp is UGLY.
Old 01-13-2010, 07:14 AM
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Okay so this is interesting. yesterday I had a chance to hit some back road hills and I got the oil temp and coolant temps above 200F (oil was at 210F and coolant was at about 205F).

Well when I hit a long straight the oil cooled down to the 170F range within minute, while it took teh coolant a couple of minutes at speed to get down to about 180F.

Your thoughts? Obviously my single Fluidyne oil cooler is efficient but I assumed coolant would cool quicker than oil since usually when the car is sitting it typically takes the oil longer to cool off that n it does for the coolant to cool off.
Old 01-13-2010, 07:18 AM
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You single fluidyne cooler is efficient while going straight apparently! What were the outside temps?
Isn't 210F a bit too much for a hill climb during winter?
Old 01-13-2010, 08:58 AM
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you have better air flow to the oil cooler than the radiator.
That is one reason I decided to do a secondary radiator for the coolant than redo the oil coolers. The coolant thermostat can react faster to temp fluctuations.
If it only took 1 minute to cool down from 210 to 170?---i would watch that carefully---rapid heating and cooling of the oil and the engine componets is something to be carefull about.
You must have really been in the rpms at lower speeds to get the oil to that temp.
OD
Old 01-13-2010, 11:37 AM
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TX

Originally Posted by olddragger
you have better air flow to the oil cooler than the radiator.
That is one reason I decided to do a secondary radiator for the coolant than redo the oil coolers. The coolant thermostat can react faster to temp fluctuations.
If it only took 1 minute to cool down from 210 to 170?---i would watch that carefully---rapid heating and cooling of the oil and the engine componets is something to be carefull about.
You must have really been in the rpms at lower speeds to get the oil to that temp.
OD

I was holding the revs high and purposely in a lower gear to get the temps up. I am going to keep an eye on the radiator because I have a new thermostat and I flushed most of the antifreeze out and replaced it with distilled water a couple months ago.

I will definitely keep an eye on the rapid cooling. I can't wait to get a real data logging solution in so I can get some more specific data.

Originally Posted by bse50
You single fluidyne cooler is efficient while going straight apparently! What were the outside temps?
Isn't 210F a bit too much for a hill climb during winter?
I am in Texas so there are no real winters here although it has been a bit cold it was in the high 60F's (according to stock gauge) when I was running and I was revving up to about 8400RPM's, no higher. I'm really not sure how much ambient temps affect oil and coolant temps at operating temperatures.

Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 01-13-2010 at 11:40 AM.
Old 01-13-2010, 01:29 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Jedi54
OD: I thought about this thread Saturday morning as some of us got together for a fun drive through the local canyons.
Temps here have been in the 50-60 range in the mornings but Saturday was in the low 50's.
After about 10 minutes of romping the car through the mountains in 2nd gear, I saw 212 Coolant and 204 Oil temp.

Damn..........seems like you had to be pushing it fairly hard in 2nd Jorge...correct??? I also assume this was with the A/C off?
Given the same ambient(mid 50ish), I have to really work at it to see coolant temps even close to 205. At the same time, I've yet to see oil temps much over 190F(if that). But...........I've only had the oil gauge in for about a week or two.



We are supposed to get back into the mid-70's to near 80 late this week, so I wanna see what difference this will make.
Old 01-13-2010, 09:08 PM
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makes a difference.
OD
Old 01-14-2010, 03:51 AM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
I am in Texas so there are no real winters here although it has been a bit cold it was in the high 60F's (according to stock gauge) when I was running and I was revving up to about 8400RPM's, no higher. I'm really not sure how much ambient temps affect oil and coolant temps at operating temperatures.
Temperatures do affect our cooling systems, i see a difference of about 8-10°c from winter to summer while cruising, a bit less while tracking in fast tracks. Keep in mind that our average winter is just above freezing (6\9°c) and our summers are pretty hot (35\40°c).
I guess that we'll have to wait and see, right?
Old 01-14-2010, 08:03 AM
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threshold seems to be around 90F (humidity normal--not desert). At that ambient the cooling system (not the oil) starts needing a little help--especially while in traffic.
OD
Old 01-14-2010, 08:21 AM
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Yeah I guess I will find out in a couple of months
Old 01-14-2010, 08:24 AM
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that texas heat dude --long hwys and shimmering heat waves---yep. beat you absoulutely will not have ANY oil condensation build up!
Old 01-17-2010, 11:30 PM
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". you should always use a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and water. Water, even distilled causes rust. Most headgaskets are made of thin metal. The water will rust around the water ports and cause the gaskets to leak. The replacement of a head gasket or gaskets will run several hundred dollers and worst casue serious engine damage can result. Antifreeze has additives that help to lube the water pump, inhibitors to keep rust in check and the 50/50 mixture will actually keep your engine running cooler. "

just thought i'd share that.
Old 01-18-2010, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by always.anthony
". you should always use a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and water.
Uh, no.

Originally Posted by always.anthony
Water, even distilled causes rust.
Not exactly.

Originally Posted by always.anthony
Most headgaskets are made of thin metal. The water will rust around the water ports and cause the gaskets to leak. The replacement of a head gasket or gaskets will run several hundred dollers and worst casue serious engine damage can result.
Head gasket? "Dollers"? "Casue"?


Originally Posted by always.anthony
Antifreeze has additives that help to lube the water pump, inhibitors to keep rust in check
True. A splash of the stuff will do the trick.

Originally Posted by always.anthony
and the 50/50 mixture will actually keep your engine running cooler. "
Uh, no. Again.
Old 01-18-2010, 09:19 AM
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Thank You MM. I run 75/25 mix distilled water and antifreeze.
Old 01-18-2010, 10:12 AM
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I'm about a 65/35 mix and I'm pretty much NA.
Old 01-18-2010, 01:09 PM
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i quoted. picked it up somewhere, and like i said, i just thought i'd share. you guys chime in. i learn.

to mazdamaniac.....idk where you get your avatar pics from. but keep them coming :P
Old 02-11-2010, 04:17 PM
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Just thought I would share this. I was driving my bosses daughters C63 AMG 6.3 V8 (yes his 17 y/o daughter) and this is what I wish the 8 had from the factory




The oil temp flashes and the cars rev limit is restricted until the oil temp reaches 180F.
Old 02-11-2010, 04:49 PM
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I wouldn't drive hard until my oil got above 175°F at least.
A lot has been thrown around about oil temps, but until someone starts seeing oil temp that are at or above their coolant temps at max under heavy load, I think its a non-issue.
Old 02-11-2010, 04:56 PM
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In this weird cold weather mine is averaging about 170F on the return line from my Fluidyne cooler. But I don't drive hard until its at least at 160F.
Old 02-11-2010, 05:04 PM
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165°F at the coolant is the exit point for open-loop, cold-start.
You should let your oil get at least that high.
Old 02-11-2010, 05:08 PM
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Yeah I am actually thinking I need a better oil thermostat because technically its a 180F thermostat so it should close up if it drops below 180F. But I'm not sure how accurate the wax thermostats are. When its hot I could definitely tell when the thermo opened (temps dropped like 10-20 degrees within seconds) but I'm not sure how quickly it closes back up.
Old 02-11-2010, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Mazurfer
Damn..........seems like you had to be pushing it fairly hard in 2nd Jorge...correct???
pushing it fairly hard would be an understatement.
I was de-carbing... yeah.... that's it...
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
I wouldn't drive hard until my oil got above 175°F at least.
A lot has been thrown around about oil temps, but until someone starts seeing oil temp that are at or above their coolant temps at max under heavy load, I think its a non-issue.
I completely agree.
I stay below 4k rpm's until at least 150F° and even then a good 5 minutes before I'll even think about redline.

Yeah, I dont get the fascination with oil temps, they have NEVER been an issue for me, even in triple digit heat.
Old 02-11-2010, 05:33 PM
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Quick question: Triple digit heat on the track? Thanks for the input.
Old 02-12-2010, 09:03 AM
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never seen oil temps on track --even with 105Fambient --above 220F. Now my coolant temps on track may be a little lower than others because of my mods.
I do not worry about lubrication issues on the track now. I do closely watch coolant temps !
If that gets at or above 220---i back off quick.

At speed a lot of cooling gets done at the oil pan. Not just the coolers.
Heck on a 40 F day with both coolers totally blocked--- on the interstate ---my oil temps are around 170F . They go up as soon as I slow down.

Now most of us are checking temps post cooler---so the pan oil temp would be a good bit higher?
OD


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