From all the observations and conversations lately it seems that oil temps may be TOO cool for the winter months?
Anyone out there that is living in a 50F abient level enviroment seeing oil temps of 200F or close to that?
I have a feeling that this may be a bigger issue than we thought?
When I removed my oil pan recently i was really concerned with the amount of white gunk in it. Too much condensation. My oil temps where running at about 160 most of the time. I driver 12 miles to work. Not enough to burn it all out.
Even with blocking both coolers and installing Mazmarts oil bypass kit I still am not getting but to 180F (open road driving and suburb type)---still not enough.
I am now thinking I need to block both sides of the coolers.
Target is 200F oil temp measured at the oil filter.
I have a lot of the white gunk.
OD

 

Denny,

Just a data point for you. I'm in Florida so typically it's much warmer but.........

I just installed a gauge this past weekend, so I'm still collecting early data.

I drive 9.5 miles to work. As a reference only.......this trip usually takes me about 14 minuutes one way.
This morning the ambient temp down here was about 35 and my oil temp got to about 168F as I got to work.
I did let the car warm up a little bit first, but just until water temp got to about 120F.

Left early today around noon and it was 53 out and again let the water temp get to about 120F before starting home.

Got home after 9.5 miles and oil temp was about 175F.

I'm just using the RB oil adapter, so mine is being measured pretty much at the filter.


Neither time today did I actually hit redline(as I normally would do). I did get it to about 7k or so on at least two ocassions, after it was as warm as it was gonna get.

 

About a 400 mile road trip in 50-60F weather average. temps measured after the cooler (single Fluidyne for those that don't know) on the return line. I can get it to the mid 190's if I push her and the coolant temps and oil temp both are near 200F.

 

My oil temp stays between 170-210. Depends on Traffic + my mood.

Water temp? same old, 180-220. again depends on traffic + my mood.

Outside temp? between 15-95. right now its 26

Have Gauge installed for over a year (almost 2)

The white gunk is just water, nothing much to worry about. You need to have oil temp constantly at or above 210 to cook them all off, fast.

 

Yup, but then I think that has something to do with the throttle being permenantly nailed

 

My old 88 Rx-7 non turbo has the ginormous FC factory oil cooler. Oil temps were frequently at about 150 F during the winter with the water temps right around 180. I never had any problems with the car. I wouldn't worry about it.

 

According to the email I got from Mobile1, 165F is okay for operating temp of my 0W-40 but I read elsewhere that oil needs to be at least at 200F to burn off contamination.

 

thanks guys--good info.
Has anyone did any used engine oil analysis during these cooler months.
What has happened to me is that the oil temps (usually 160 or so) was not getting hot enough to boil off the water AND other contamients.

Those affected the viscosity of my oil discovered by used oil analysis.

Also when I dropped my pan to install Mazmarts bypass's i was surprised at the amount of this stuff in the pan. Almost 1/3 of the pan was covered. I change oil religiously no later than 3K and add usually 1 qt in between changes. Drive 12 miles to work (each way) per day.
I have a chance can that has vacuum.
When I check the oil on all my other cars (4) none of this stuff is there. They have recip engines.
And guess what? This stuff does not come out with an oil change. Nope it hides in the corners/baffles on the drivers side.
So guys drive the hell out of them i guess.I am about to cover front and back of my coolers.
OD

 

Please let me know if covering the back helps. I guess the next time i change my oil, i am going to really have to nail it before. The olny way i got it off the dipstick was a day i ran multiple 0-60 runs up a steep hill. None of my other driving will get rid of it.

I plan to do an oil analysis with the Rotella you recommended. I found a 10W30 version, since i still need the car to start after a day of work (its 3 degrees here in Mpls right now).

 

Seen you in all those other threads about blocking oil coolers or bypassing etc, that Ash8 and other are discussing.......so you know what all is being talked about. Think I'd just say...................don't forget to take that stuff off when it starts getting warm in Macon!

Let us know what results you see.

I'm in Florida so not that it's a non-issue for me, but it's a non-issue. It will get boiled off in no time!

 

Water evaporates no matter what you do. Its just that the hotter it is, the faster it evaporate.

I never worry too much about these stuff. I see 100 Celsius Temp every couple of days even its 20 degrees out there.

 

OD, bottled up and ready to go!!

 

Cool! will really be interested in seeing the results.
I am about to do another one myself. maybe 1- 2 wks away.

On the 23nd of this month we are installing at least 4 mazmart bypass kits and will see 4 oil pans. some people are driving 2 hrs to get to the spot so their pans may be clean--we will see.

Nycaps the condensation will boil off--but it takes time and a lot of people do not drive long enough at the lower temps.

This may be a non issue I am not sure. I do know my uao was affected and I changed my driving habits some and blocked the oil coolers.
Another uao soon may tell a lot.
OD

 

found that adding a block to the entire air cooler intake works better than just a surface mounted air cooler block alone. Getting up to 190F now on my daily commute.
I was forwarded an idea also of blocking the oil pan exposure---had not thought of that.
OD

 

What do you mean, the center grill? Oh and check this out that Hoss-05 turned me on too. K Type thermocouple-rs are fairly cheap. Question is how you would read/display the data.

http://www.aemelectronics.com/index.php?cPath=9_32

 

sweet part but a little pricey for me!

No not the center part of the grill. I meant that before I just had a flexable blocking plate of sorts flat agaisnt the oil cooler, now i have the entire oil cooler vent blocked (level with my fog lights).
Today, since I did this and with ambient temp of 26F i was about to have 185F on open road driving and actually got to 200F in the city. Coolant temps increased to 165 on open road and 185 in town.
I am good with this.
Less white stuff now.
I am also seeing lower pressures with the 200F temps as expected. still more than oem but less than before.

 

What kind of pressure change from before your Oil Pressure Mod till now? I got my parts in the mail, just need to set aside time to do it.

 

AJ checked my temps with his cobb and we are getting about 200f temps so stock oem box or k&nv2 short ram its all the same. But go for what you know

 

200f in the intake? Damn you are loosing power dude.
OD

 

How is that possible? Even in 100F+ temps I don't exceed 150-160 in intake temps (stock air box, WIX filter).

 

lol.

 

you saw 200°F oil temps with your Cobb AP? You sure about that?

 

OD: I thought about this thread Saturday morning as some of us got together for a fun drive through the local canyons.
Temps here have been in the 50-60 range in the mornings but Saturday was in the low 50's.
After about 10 minutes of romping the car through the mountains in 2nd gear, I saw 212 Coolant and 204 Oil temp.

 

Okay assumed from that post you were talking about intake temps. Are you talking about oil temps? The COBB does not read oil temps nor does any other OBD-II devices.

 

i typically see 160-180 F Oil temps unless i hammer it a few times.