niteshade247

It is my understanding to do a correct seafoam on this car you run it through the vac nips not in the fuel because you need to crank the MOP up afrter seafoaming because of the cleaning fact. And doing it in the fuel would lead to fast wear on the apex seals. If done correctly yes I don't believe it will kill the engine but what the OP stated is not the correct way. The process is a delicate one with rotary's this is why I have not ventured to try it im not confident with my skills with this engine enough to try it yet.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Seafoam in the fuel isn't inherently harmful in that way. You are forgetting the quantity/dilution, as well as the point that gasoline washed the oil film just as well as seafoam. Seafoam in the gas works on the same level as cleaning agents in the gas, like Shell adds to v-power. Zero proof that seafoam in the gas does anything beneficial, but no real reason to think that it is actively harmful.

Plus, seafoaming through the service ports and letting it sit does nothing. Proven. Have to have the engine running while it is ingested for any effect, in which case ingesting distilled water in the same manner is equally effective. Except seafoam costs 80 times more per ounce than distilled water does.

Karack

this whole thread seems to be trying to defy the obvious, that the engine has become ill with marginal compression. the seafoam is likely increasing compression to a very small degree by keeping the internals somewhat cleaner than without.

running the car hotter to try and meet the criteria for exactly how much fuel the engine needs during cranking to forego the low compression issue is a last ditch effort to avoid buying a replacement engine, which i think most everyone already knows you need.

just have the compression tested, you will know for sure if the engine is on its last legs or not. running the engine hotter is just a "rob peter to pay paul" method of dealing with this, if it even helps. buying a 2Kw starter and replacing the battery with a high CCA unit is your best first method, if that's already done then you're basically out of alternatives. failing ignition is also a primary cause of hard starting issues, one which most cannot diagnose easily without the proper tools.

by the way, running the engine hotter will promote carbon buildup, not the opposite. rich mixtures from cold running apply loose and soft carbon deposits, hot at temp rich mixtures promote hard deposits which remain. premixing and seafom do help with the both situations.

ken-x8

Does JC Whitney still sell those pellets that you throw into the spark plug holes and rejuvinate your engine? If so, would those work on a rotary as well as they do on a piston engine?

Ken