Targatheory

Hey, I post this only because I'm truly stumped even though I've searched endlessly and drained my head of my automotive knowledge lol.

2004 Rx8 Manual with 86k miles.

Just passed first smog last month.

Brand New Borg Warner Ignition Coils bought from O'reilly Auto.
Moroso Plug Wire set from RaceRoots.
NGK RE7CL and RE9BT from Amazon.

Before I changed these out, I would get a flashing CEL at high RPMS, like about 6k and beyond; this would go away after cruising for a while.

Code was Cylinder # 1 Misfire and Random Misfire.

After I got new components, same thing. Random and Cylinder # 1. Only difference is that the light stays on now.

Clean Maf, clean air filter, no VFAD, did a water steam clean, ran MMO in the oil to ungunk and two oil changes in a row (drove a few days in between however) to get freshest oil change, using Royal Purple 5-30 and Castrol Edge 20-50, have always redlined daily.

Reset NVRAM and KAM.

Could only think that the engine harness is bad?

Ideas please?

Cam

iTrader: (1)

Misfires are either ignition, mechanical, or fuel.

Youve changed the ignition components, rule that out.
Said youve cleaned the engine, so it may not be mechanical (compression issue), but a compression test would rule that out.

Last option is fuel, you may have a bad injector, or a fuel pump going out or clogged, etc.

ArXate

Borg Warner ignition coils bought at O'Reilly? Why did you buy these?

Fate710

iTrader: (1)

Well for the rotor to misfire which is what you are saying the misfire is, its has to be like what Cam said.

Mechanical, Fuel, Spark. You said you've replaced the ignition components(are you sure they are good? I've seen auto parts store items be DOA). That leaves mechanical and fuel. If its Mechanical it will be compression related and a compression test will show this.

For fuel you could have a clogged injector, an injector going out, etc etc. Fuel pump could also be going bad, but that would lead me to think that rotor #2 would also show the same symptoms.

Targatheory

Well, lets see.

I work at O'reillys, so lifetime warranty through my own store plus discount just makes sense, especially when Mazda's are known for not lasting that long in the first place. But I did have this flashing CEL before I got the BWDs, so I'm ruling out the coils (even though I've been so badly tempted to just warranty out my coils for new ones, which I could easily do).

In terms of mechanical, a long time ago I did a test at home with a piston car compression tester with the check valve removed on my car and my friend's 06 Rx8. His car went up and down from 130psi while mine was about 91psi. I remember pouring about an ounce of oil in the chamber and this resulted in 120ish psi; though I've been told by other members here that a significant amount of oil like that would obviously increase compression and that it wasn't the best way to accurately gauge compression compared to a new car.

I really don't think its the fuel pump or injector. I do have a question though: The rotor closest to the driver is the #1 correct?

I've always thought I had a compression issue justified by home compression test and something else...

Everytime I change my spark plugs, the Trailing plug on the rotor closest to the driver has oil on the threads.

Input?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Borg Warner coils ????????????? ............ - how do you know they are compatable with RX8 ignition system ?

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

mine is always clean.

Targatheory

Thanks nycgps, you being funny or trying to be obvious with the fact that spark plug threads should always be clean? I think both, anywaaay...

Lets say this spark plug hole leak is causing weak compression, this would prevent correct combustion leading to a misfire, so anyone think a butt load of premix would help?

I'll try clearing the code, checking the eshaft sensor like CRH said, and then premixing a ton while driving hard. I'll see if that flashing or solid CEL comes back.

Nubo

Switch the coils and wires between rotor1 and 2, see if the #1 misfire becomes a #2 misfire. Then at least you will know whether or not the ignition components are to blame.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

How did you do the water steam clean and why? That could be the problem.

Fate710

iTrader: (1)

9k its not a problem to water/steam clean a Wankel. They can't hydrolock and they just decarbon the engine.

Targatheory

I think 9k was thinking that perhaps the steam clean worked too well. I was thinking the same thing because these misfires, I remember now, happened after I did the steam clean.

I used about two cups of water mixed with seafoam per rotor through the vacuum nipples on the LIM while my friend reved the car slighly above idle. This took about half an hour.

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