ACT Clutch Lockout
#1
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ACT Clutch Lockout
I'm running the ACT ProLite Flywheel, ACT Street/Strip Clutch & RP Short Shifter? Has anyone noticied when they launch on this combo that the clutch starts to lock you out/into gears. The other day I put the car into reverse about 15 minutes after launching and the car would not come out of Reverse but with a little force it popped out and went into a limbo mode where it wasn't in gear but was stiff and couldnt move shifter around. A little more finess and it went into 1st and then was fine as long as I didnt go to reverse. Let the car sit over night and boom no more problems. Another time after launching the car would gring going into 2nd & 3rd and not go into Reverse. Same thing...let it cool down over night and boom was fine. Since the problem of the 2nd,3rd grind and not being able to get into reverse I have increased the throw on the pedal but the getting locked into reverse happened this weekend. Has anyone else experienced this or have any ideas?
#3
I'm interested in this because I have the ACT Prolite flywheel and street strip clutch - and my next purchase was going to be the RP short shifter... i hope someone can chime in on this.
So far I havent had any problems with my new flywheel and clutch.
So far I havent had any problems with my new flywheel and clutch.
#5
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It's a brand new tranny with 3k miles. If the tranny had a problem it would happen all the time...never heard of tranny problems based on heat. The clutch on the other hand would be greatly effected by heat.
#6
Yep has nothing to do with the setup.
Stock cars are experancing the samething.
One of the gals here had the same problem. I had it once and was ready to bring it in to the dealer.
Then it disapeared. No more problems since.
Just make sure you always pull back towards you when shift into second. DO NOT pull straight back.
Also make sure that you push down hard before attempting to go in reverse.
I think it's the syncro's in the gear shifter that can go out of sync easily and lock up.
If you consistantly shift incorrectly it forms grooves then slide into a lock out position.
Read the TSB's. You don't have to slam the gears to be fast. They are not made like the old Hurst shifter in the good O'l Days that can take abuse.
Stock cars are experancing the samething.
One of the gals here had the same problem. I had it once and was ready to bring it in to the dealer.
Then it disapeared. No more problems since.
Just make sure you always pull back towards you when shift into second. DO NOT pull straight back.
Also make sure that you push down hard before attempting to go in reverse.
I think it's the syncro's in the gear shifter that can go out of sync easily and lock up.
If you consistantly shift incorrectly it forms grooves then slide into a lock out position.
Read the TSB's. You don't have to slam the gears to be fast. They are not made like the old Hurst shifter in the good O'l Days that can take abuse.
#7
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It's not your tranny, i had the same issue with the ACT clutch in my old scooby. It actually turned out that the clutch line was losing pressure under load. Replaced the clutch line with a SS line and bled the system and all was good.
#8
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I'm having an extremely hard time shifting from 1st to 2nd quickly at high rpms.
Setup is - ACT Street Clutch and Plate with a RB Flywheel
Clutch is to the floor and I cannot get it to engage immediately into second.
First is hard to engage when at a stop .
The clutch does feel spongy.
I've bleed the lines (will do it again)
Have replaced OEM clutch line with RP Braided Line
Need to check the Clutch Pedal brackets for cracking or failure
The disengage point of the clutch is almost to the floor so maybe changing the clutch pedal throw might help. Can anyone point to a good DIY on clutch pedal throw?
Setup is - ACT Street Clutch and Plate with a RB Flywheel
Clutch is to the floor and I cannot get it to engage immediately into second.
First is hard to engage when at a stop .
The clutch does feel spongy.
I've bleed the lines (will do it again)
Have replaced OEM clutch line with RP Braided Line
Need to check the Clutch Pedal brackets for cracking or failure
The disengage point of the clutch is almost to the floor so maybe changing the clutch pedal throw might help. Can anyone point to a good DIY on clutch pedal throw?
#9
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Check out https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...67#post1772767 for the Directions on changing Clutch Pedal Throw. Pretty slave cyl but most likely not needed with the adjustment to the throw.
#11
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The Slave Cylinder is what attaches to the finger that is attached to the Throwout Bearing. The Slave Cylinder releases the Pressure Plate Fingers from pushing the Clutch against the Flywheel. There are 2 types of Pressure Plate types, Push & Pull, and they work just as they are named. Push Plates have the slave cylinder push the fingers apart from clutch and a pull, pulls the fingers apart from clutch.
#13
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I'm taking my 8 into the dealer tomorrow morning with the documentation provided by ucleadguitar and swoope.
Thanks guys! I actually told them about both these docs and they told me to bring them in.
I've ask them to inspect the Clutch pedal bracket as well (my inspection came up with nothing)
All I know is if they do anything it's got to be better. Removing the ACT clutch isn't really an option I would like to entertain
Thanks guys! I actually told them about both these docs and they told me to bring them in.
I've ask them to inspect the Clutch pedal bracket as well (my inspection came up with nothing)
All I know is if they do anything it's got to be better. Removing the ACT clutch isn't really an option I would like to entertain
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