kevink0000

From an earlier post on another thread. Just want to keep the info together to help searches.



Ancient thread revival. Hopefully I didn't break any forum rules by posting here. I have read this thread with interest a couple of times, and now have a 2007 186000 mile s1 engine apart in my garage that was was well maintained by its owner, used GTX 5w-20 as long as he had it, who had the car from about 11000 miles till I picked it up at 186000. From what I have seen so far in this engine, and I will post pictures and start a new thread when I can since I am a noob, and the forum will not allow me to start one yet, the side seals in this daily driver car were not the main source of ultimate failure. The rotor housings showed pronounced wear, but no flaking, and the apex seals bore the brunt of the wear and were the source of the majority of compression loss as far as I can see. There were no signs of overheating in this engine, either localized (the sparkplug area cracks) or overall It also appeared than a chronic lack of top-end (to use a piston term) lubrication afflicts these engines in stock form, even with updated factory flashes. As others have stated elsewhere, the part-throttle low load oil map is inadequate in my opinion, and the whole oil injection system is designed for emissions reduction primarily and owner convenience second- long engine life and well-being were deemed a tertiary concern. However, I think the map at high load high rpm (beyond where normal emissions testing is done) is what "saves" the engine from quicker death in certain circumstances; (a redline a day, etc) not just from carbon blowoff, but also accessing the factory high load oil map regularly keeps a more advantageous level of lubricant in the top end- temporarily and sporadically at least.
( Like the Racing Beat comment on their site about increased HP coming with increased oil introduction, and then slowly going away after returning to stock levels, which has been documented to occur in 2 stroke piston engines as well. Probably occurs from both better sealing and lower friction, which from what I see in my engine, lower friction and less metal-metal contact in the chamber would be a very good thing.)

I am adding to this thread because I found it interesting and largely helpful prior to this teardown. But, the info here shows that the Renesis fails differently in a racing environment than my engine did in long term "normal" street use. This may have been covered before in the forum, but I was unable to find a long-term high mileage original engine teardown post. I thought you guys will find it interesting. Will have pics and a fresh teardown post up as soon as I get all the pictures together.

0-TO-100_Real_Quick

186000 out of the original engine? Impressive.

kevink0000

From an earlier post on another thread. Just want to keep the info together to help searches.

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PO bought car at about 11k miles from dealership. He was owner since then, and told me it was. His motivation to be untruthful during negotiations would in my opinion
would be to say something otherwise.
Also:
When he experienced the initial failure he had it towed to a Mazda dealership for repair. When he found out the bad news he decided to list it on ebay. long and short, I picked the car up off of that dealership's lot, but before the deal was done, I had the service writer check the service records for various things, one of which was engine replacement. No record of it.

No sign on the "block" of reman tags or overheat telltale stamps.
Has an engine number stamped on front housing.
That engine#, 517806- would correspond well with being the original install in a 2007 s1.

Plus, I have no signs at all that it is not the original engine, no wrench marks on specific bolts, no scrapes from the ac compressor, no sign on hoses that the clamps were ever moved, no sign at all in the engine compartment that it was ever removed. But now there are, unfortunately, lots of those signs.

Therefore, I believe the PO when he told me it was the original.

kevink0000

0 to 100,

I just realized you you have the same color and year as mine!

That color wasn't my first choice, but it has grown on me, and now I can't imagine liking any other color better. I will really like it when I can drive the car again!

Love_Hounds

Stormy Blue Mica is the best color, no doubt about it.