ah, neato, didn't know there was a PPF difference in there. i did this on an 04 4 port 4 speed auto.

i did this work solo. i jacked up and applied holding tension under the auto trans, then loosened the PPF nuts on the trans. i put a 2x6 block of wood between the rear diff and the cradle, then removed the PPF nuts all the way, which tensioned the block of wood. after that, unbolted the PPF out, lowered it onto a creeper, and wheeled it out from underneath the car.

for reinstallation, i jacked up the manual trans as far as it would go in the trans tunnel. slightly loosely bolted the PPF to the rear diff. then, held up the PPF, releasing the block of wood. holding it up where i guessed it would be in line, i slowly lowered the manual trans until the trans studs went through the PPF. loosely installed the PPF nuts, then relaxed the hardware on the rear diff that was holding the PPF. after all that, followed the FSM guidelines for tightening the bolts, setting the pitch/angle with the trans tunnel brace, then final torque.

wow thanks so much for the replies! i indeed am trying to put a 2006 PPF on and it is definitely close but just not quite there.. i have probably taken 20 ppf's out and installed 10 and never had this issue but also never really had the car sitting like it is on blocks. i had to completely dissasemble the rear subframe and i know sometimes the ebrakes will hold a preloaded angle on the diff until you let them go, but im hoping the 2004 PPF i have coming from the junkyard is all i need because i am tired of messin with it haha..

I will try again today just for the hell of it since i have to put the shocks in the rear but i am confident ive got them as close together as they can be . Ive held up a tape measure from stud to stud while raising and found the closest together points and its still a half inch from goin in the holes at all and the marks from previous tightening are way off

The good news everything electronically seems ok except the starting because i am gonna tap that wire for the clutch today but i think it will be fine. worse case i have the immobilizer from the other car but no blinking keys or anything atm!

So lots of issues trying to get it started today but finally got a wire ran from the white/blue ignition wire to the ltgreen/red starter relay trigger.. but not until grounding the relays ground... which is maybe not right but its trying to start with the key now

ABOUT THE PPF!!! ive spent a lot of time trying to get this thing on and its finally on but ive bent a few of the studs it seems and its really tight on the driveshaft it barely spins.. but its on...? is there something else wrong or is there really a longer ppf on the earlier ones? so frustrating im about to drill out these holes bigger lol

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...b69974e205.png
this is what my research is turning up. F151-39-710K, which supersedes the ones previous in F151-39-710, is applicable for all standard power [automatic/manual], and high power [manual]. FE92-39-710B, is applicable for high power [automatic]

the high power automatic was introduced in 2006 model year. if you are working with a 2006 high power automatic, then, per these parts number breakdowns, you have a different PPF.

guess most of the other conversions that have been going on have been standard power [4 port] automatic to high power [6 port] manual. and this may explain what is going on with you. from this table, it would be "later model automatics, you need an earlier model automatic or a manual PPF".

hopefully you can sort out the bolts/studs, and wait for your 2004 PPF to arrive.

[ease of searching: F15139710K F151 39 710K FE9239710B FE92 39 710B]

just... lol

i also found those two part numbers but almost zero info and everyone on earth says they are the same. yay me

junkyard ppf be here on tuesday or wednesday

since you will be in a position to do so...when the other PPF arrives, can you please measure PPF lengths and bolt hole offsets from ends? hopefully we can provide some critical information that could help someone else.

oh absolutely because its apparantly something never been done haha.. is it really that none of you guys have had a 2006 car you are swapping? i hope the keys dont give me shit because the systems are diff

i called the dealer today and after basically forcing him to help me and asking about 7 different times i finally got a confirmation on different part numbers but nothing about whats different or lengths so i guess ill still be getting the junkyard frame and praying to the rotary gods

i tried a few times to start it but sounds like no fuel or spark yet.. gonna check spark with my inline light and maybe its been flooded from all the key on stuff or disassembly but we are almost there..

I guess im not really doing what everyone else is doing not many would go thru all this work just to have a manual trans.. i already had 6 speed and 6port on two cars but both auto . so if you are doing this in the future make sure you get a 2004/2005 PPF or any year manual i think. the 6spd trans must be whats different i wish i had a 4spd to measure the tailshaft...

some teasers ;)
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...1d8e0e6557.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...6b929f3590.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...4193d921c2.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...9bebdac17a.jpg

Finally got the other frame in today and its definitely longer by an inch!
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...b9a24a95d6.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...087bfe79c1.jpg

after battling wiring issues for 3 days i finally re-read the thread and saw that it wont start on the MT ECU and though i thought i had the right one in there i had the ECU from the red shinka in there and not the one from the white car originally an AT as well. i dont think many would go this far for a swap but i am taking a good motor out of the shinka AT 6spd 6port and putting it in the white car which also was 6spd 6port but bad motor. ive taken 3 cars and made one with all the best parts but i got confused on which original ECU it was.. SOOOOO IT STARTED TONIGHT!! for a brief second then i turned it off and will probably have everything wrapped up tomorrow suspension wise /wheels/ bumper and i think shes ready !!!

i dont think i will have the same injector issue because it used to be a 6port car right? still gotta run the violet wire for the clutch sensor tomorrow as well .

also: i measured the two transmissions and everything... the driveshafts are still the same length and transmission overall length is the same but the bolts/studs are located and inch further on the 6spd AT trans confirmed for why the PPF is shorter

finally got her running today !! i got it started last night but instantly shut it off because it was late and well... flooded real bad :(

so after all the usual attempts and draining all my batteries i finally took it down hill and dumped the clutch for a while in 2nd gear and she finally puttered to life

after nearly dying goin down the driveway with no brakes i hopped across the street for the gas station and gave her a little premium. immediately was followed into the gas station and asked how much to buy it lolll (thought of the F&F meme)

so tomorrow gonna throw some fresh plugs in and get the trans fluid changed and go for a few test drives before a dealer visit i guess and alignment

Ok well at the moment she starts and runs fine with the original ECU , but definitely in limp mode of some kind. I cannot get the dealer here to help me with it and every locksmith i call has no clue so what are my options for getting the manual flash ecu working ?

I have 4 DTC which i assume are from the wrong ecu being in but maybe not.

p0335 - crankshaft pos sensor A circuit
p0171- system too lean bank 1
u0101- lost communication with tcm
p0301- cylinder 1 misfire

Can i buy a versatuner or something to flash it like the cobb or something?

Racing Beat flashes ECU's. I have no idea how involved they get with it, but I'd imagine they could probably at least point you in the right direction.

Congrats on getting the car running though. That's no small feat. Definitely more work than I'd be willing to do.

im pretty sure the codes are a limp mode caused by the OMP removal , luckily i kept the wiring and will just hook the old one back up i guess today. (two of the lines broke)

i have ordered an obdlink sx cable and will try to flash this ecu i guess with mazdaserviceinfo license but i dont see anywhere that lets me know if i can flash an AT ecu into an MT ecu. i dont see the issue if the ecu/pins are the same but who knows

OMP was definitely the reason for the ECC code and misfire.. i put an old one back in today without the lines and shaft just to plug up and it revs to 7500 like the auto did now. doesnt seem any different from stock now other than not revving higher than 7500. i know you could change this with versatuner but i am sure there will still be something else that wont work until i flash to MT tune.

I am still a little confused on which needs to be done.. do i have to flash my current AT ecu to an MT flash? or program the MT ecu for my cars modules? i feel like you could use a device that plugs into the old TCM harness that tells it a different signal for MT but maybe im dreaming. (to bypass new ecu flash not to provide the clutch signal)

I have an appointment at my dealership on the 28th to see if they can help and maybe get the recalls done that are outstanding atleast ( my excuse to force them to try to work on it) i think one is actually for a new flash but im just not sure if it matters that it was AT seems like they could flash anything to any ECU all the pins are the same

ok i am getting myself pretty confused on what i need to do here but i think i may not be able to do what im trying.... at the moment i am driving the car with no issues other than the check engine light saying lost communication with ECU and 7500rpm rev limit. everything runs and drives fine and im sure the ABS/DSC would work if i put the original back in (swapped to the MT cars already)

I have the key from the 2004 MT which was a basic key immobilizer and just has a cut blade with no chip or head attached .. someone cut it all off..awesome
I have the original AKE from the 2007 CWP which is prob all working but i only l have the emergency key cut to the ignition .. no remotes but does start with key
I have a blank AKE key that i would like to get a new Card for and cut to copy the current one in the 2007 CWP

from all my research the only important matching parts to make the engine run properly and make the immobilizer happy is an antenna coil/immobilizer ring with key and matching PCM, which at this point im guessing is probably gonna have to be the same year as the cars supposed to have originally. at the moment i have all kinds of immobilizers and keys and ecus' and not a single one to match for an AKE system so im gonna call the junkyard tomorrow and pray they have a cheap matching set before my dealer appt comes up next monday.

Im also thinking i could tap the immobilizer harness and just leave the old ring and get a new key with a chip and ziptie it under the dash ? Seems like there would be conflicting codes i guess if both were plugged in so i wont do this yet

All i really need is to replace the ignition cylinder completely but i wanna keep the red ring and no key required to start situation ....ive never been able to press the button on the handle to unlock and i want to ... can i have both systems in tact with an old key cylinder system?

Also after a lengthy discussion with racing beat there is zero way that they know of to make an AT ecu work as an MT ecu... so you will have to have the MT ecu and atleast immobilizer ring/key to make any swap work as if it was just in another shell. Any reflashing of the AT ecu will not be happening to make this work so make sure you have the right one for the key and make sure the key is the same system as the one you wanna be using.

Since i am swapping a 6port6spd AT to 6port6spd MT my ecu is operating pretty much like it should other than some improper signals its wanting from the AT neutral switches or gear selector stuff but i havnt noticed any problems with idle or revving /accelerating to 7500 so its a shame it couldnt just be fixed with a flash. If there was a way to activate the immobilizer enable signal (whatever that is ) without an aftermarket ecu option i would say it would be the best option if anyone knows of that? send 12v to a certain wire when starting?

Thanks to everyone for their time/input .. happy fathers day !

MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!!!! i finalllllllllly got a locksmith with the vcm to come by and was no problem to get the MT ecu working with my key.. just needed a PARAMETER RESET! didnt even have to code any keys or immobilizers. He changed the VIN on the ecu to match my car and its like nothing is different except the mileage on the cluster so...about to go for a test drive and see if i can finally get a 9k rev :D\

He wasnt able to program the old credit card remote from the shinka to this car but maybe the dealer can on monday .. if not the locksmith can get the oem credit card with key for 160 and its an OEM one not a chinese one which i will probably be doing anyway. He was able to tell me a wheel sensor was bad for my DSC but i have plenty to swap out maybe just needs cleaned. The spare CC key blank i got cut at ACE for $2 and the locksmith put a chip in it and "cloned" my existing one. He has the nicest service van ive ever seen with all kinds of chips and keys and very squared away smart guy. SOO thankful for him everything cost $200 and i am happy to pay it! My appointment at mazda monday will be for recalls and to see if they can program the old CC remote to my car but i doubt it (i think they are one time)

Im so close to finally being able to use the advanced keyless for the first time and properly drive the car for the first time ever. This motor has never seen over 7500 rpm for its 22k miles so im gonna take it easy at first. I feel like special ed from crankyankers! GOIN TO HAWAIIIII YAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY

Happy times mate! Go easy on her! Be safe.

I think i might just make a different thread for people in my situation.. sucks i assumed so much and had to learn for everyone but meh :P Its a lot of what if reading through this whole thread it could definitely be updated/consildated for people

so the locksmith said that the ABS module was communicating and showing the left rear sensor dirty.. i cleaned it and replaced it and reset steering center.. no luck and have a constant 0301 misfire and 0300 random which im pretty sure is related. Do i still have bad sensors or did he not actually get it programmed ? I do have the manual cars unit in the car but drove it for a while with ABS and traction light on ( not the DSC OFF ) . still have those lights and i think the sensors tell the ecu how fast to fire right?

Ill check monday at my appointment but could also call locksmith back out maybe he was real cool. I replaced plugs and checked/rotated my new coils and never had any issues before so im sure its a programming thing but it is keeping me from running it hard atleast lol. It happens even on easy cruise straight anything past 3k rpm just goin to coffee shop n back 1 mile or so

So i missed the dealer appointment but probably for the better.. I did a lot of sensor replacement and testing trying to get the ABS light and flashing CEL fixed... turns out it was a bad E-shaft sensor but its been working no problem until the computer was programmed.. maybe there is a difference in something signal wise? anyway i replaced it with a fresh one and it went on a 20 mile trip with no CEL and i think the abs light might go away after a few cycles?

I am getting the alignment tomorrow and also may be the reason for the ABS lights on, but i have the locksmith on standby for a reprogram of it i guess

I noticed 2 days ago i first started the car for the day and the lights went off, but as soon as i got out of my driveway and got the misfire they came back on and still on. still related?

Otherwise shes rippin good now! finally got a 9k redline beep :D

Everything went well with alignment but still have the ABS and traction lights on. They went off one time so far which makes me think its "programmed" but ive fixed all the potential issues causing the lights.. i guess i should call the locksmith back out

all sensors are testing good resistance, all fuses are good, everything else is working well and no CEL except the 410

possible i got a sensor on the trans plugged in backward? speedo works i dunno what else is part of the ABS check on startup

at the moment i am having a lot of random issues it seems.. i finally got the misfire fixed with the new ESS and went for the test drive and had what seemed like fuel cut or pedal cut.. randomly completely cutting off then coming back 100% .. i rewired my throttle body connector because a wire was not in good shape and changed the MAF sensor to a cleaner one and the random cut outs went away but now it just struggles to idle. Had the longest startup ive ever had this morning seemed like it took 5-6 solid seconds and didnt wanna do anything. It was low on fuel and was showing lower on the gauge than i remember it being.. stalled coming down the driveway and showed below E so restarted and gauge showed few bars above E like i remember but instantly stalled again and went below the E. I went and got 5gal of gas and put some fresh premium in and it started running ok again but seems like i have picked up trash or somethin is wrong with the fuel pump.

I get a p01071 system too lean bank 1 and also got a random p2004 for the "intake manifold runner control stuck open bank 1A" so i fingered the SSV valve it seems to move . no more CEL flashing but still have abs and traction light plus idle jumping up and down

should i shim the ESS like others? why would this need to happen.. i also verified i have reverse lights so i assume the trans wiring is hooked up right

seems to be running a lot better after the full tank of premium i guess i was just suckin some trash up in the tank or something... still struggling a little to start compared to what it used to be but it does start so i probably need to clean something in the fuel system. battery voltage before starting in the morning was 12.2 and while running was 14.3 so i think thats all good

still have abs and traction lights seems to be the last thing to solve. may try switching back to my original module but maybe get the locksmith back out to try again on it

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...716dc36574.jpg

Dumb question: Have you done the steering wheel reset procedure? It's never worked for me when I had issues, but can't hurt to try...

ive always heard "there are no dumb questions just dumb people asking questions" lol .. seriously tho im just happy for any response or feedback... noones perfect it could very well be something simple i overlooked so i appreciate it

i have done it a few times but i dont get a confirmation maybe im doin it wrong? DSC light never comes on or functions just the abs and out of control car light .. and they randomly went away one morning until i hit about 30mph

i just got another system too lean p0171 code today even though its running better now i feel like there is definitely still something clogged so i may be taking the fuel pump out soon ugh.. also gonna swap rear o2 sensor just in case

i just dont understand what else could be interfering with the abs lights other than program issue even though its the one that went with the ecu it may have been a bad module from the parts car. nothing was able to be tested on it

oook so im replacing a dead fuel pump... gave her straight 12v and no dice.. spare pump goes with same 12v

is there anyway to drain the tank with a dead pump? im over half full and dont want it to squirt on me :(

after a fun day of playing with gas and tearing apart two pump assemblies and all three cars.. she is back! :D

i first put in the 04 silver MT parts cars pump and housing because its the spare one i had out that worked on 12v.. after putting it in the nipple was leaking so i took it back out

next i put i took the pump assembly out of the red shinka i had been driving for 8 months and put it in... didnt get any action on it for some reason after putting it all back together.. so i took it back out..

next i disected the good pumps housing and once i figured out how to get it all the way apart i found out ITS A WALBRO!! but someone installed it with no o-ring and didnt drill the siphon.. so i went to ace and got the o-ring and drilled out the siphon to 1/8

after swapping the good pump into the good housing with good nipple, cleaning the sock (very dirty ), and reinstalling with the smaller o-ring from ace, new ss clamps on the hoses, and wiping it all down its finally acting normal and started real fast!

after testing the shinka pump outside the car it works fine for some reason never worked in the car.. maybe my battery was just too low?? now i will put it back in and glad i just purchased the stupid removal tool kit from autozone.

currently she is doing ok i drive everyday to get some coffee or food, but im still having some kind of fuel issue.. the idle is kinda rough sometimes hunting between 700-900 and stuttering while at idle. The fuel tank is making some kinda clunking noise constantly at idle after the operating temp gets to normal

Im thinking i have a siphon tube problem or was not supposed to drill the siphon hole (read mazdamaniac guide that said to drill the siphon pickup tube to 1/8" ) the fuel pump makes a different noise everytime i engage it sometimes is like a hydraulic noise like its charging pressure. The car always drives normal and usually idles but has stalled before

The ABS system has been attempted to reprogram to my ECU again but the locksmith could not programmed the mismatched module. The module from the parts car seems to think i have a left rear speed sensor wiring problem but i checked the wires and seem fine. I have got this module to clear when the locksmith was here, until i put it into the cradle that holds the unit and bolted everything back then it didnt work. I played with a bunch of wiring under the dash that has the speed sensor wires in it and saw the DSC light flash for the first time, did the steering wheel trick , and lights cleared!! As soon as i hit the DSC off button to test it the lights came back on and l havnt been able to clear again. Im assuming i still have a wire shorted somewhere and am gonna run to separate wires to the speed sensor today .

She is so close! main goal is to get it running right for BOTD meetup next month at deals gap if anyone wants to join :)

well after a lot of frustration with the donor MT abs unit , the original AT abs unit, and forscan diagnostics i have determined that the MT abs unit has a shorted out board or pins for the LR speed sensor.

i will be ordering a new MT abs unit from ebay and hopefully theres nothing wrong with it...

the original AT unit shows the speed sensors working thru forscan live data just fine

no way i wire anything will the MT unit clear the c1175 code even if i use the other rear sensor/wiring and even if i tap the other rear sensor wiring right at the connector. it will show intermittently working while im driving but never while stationary which will never clear the light.

also had a random sensor power supply failure code at some point so adds to the bad unit diagnosis.. its not giving power to the sensor therefore not getting data back

for some reason when i try to program the original AT unit with the MT asbuilt data it got as far as telling me to turn the key off and on the first time, but every try after that tells me "vehicle conditions incorrect" and now shows random asbuilt data is read when i load it none of which are oem data. cant get the oem MT data or AT data to load.

I would be grateful if anyone knows how to get this unit programmed (also have a nonDSC unit at junkyard available and another AT unit here i could try ) im using an OBDlink SX cable and the newest beta of forscan

only other problem im having at the moment is the RKE module is showing low voltage code b1318 continuously and i have confirmed the units are not interchangeable from 2004/2005 to 2006+ for the RKE

today was my first day with no lights!!!

installed the ebay module which was actually from an automatic but was an 05. seems the 06-08 are different wiring even? i can see the connector has different wires for the yaw sensor and brake pressure sensor... hoping they go to the same places but have gotten a c2778 code for yaw sensor before.

the first try in forscan worked on the programming! my theory is it messed my asbuilt hex up the first try because it told me to turn key off and on but didnt say success then showed weird hex data after and never would program to MT data. possibly because its from an 06-08 car (the original 07 AT one for the car) so i think thats trash now with the other MT module that was apparantly bad.

i think i might install the other cars yaw sensor or atleast compare them just in case they are different but i get a lateralG reading in forscan. no yaw reading i dunno what it takes to change the yaw reading while driving

last thing after this is trying to get the RKE working and ive tested all the buttons thru forscan im gonna play with it some more. The code i got says there is a software incompatibility with the instrument cluster . maybe have to upgrade to 06 cluster?

I switched the red shinka RKE module into it for a test because that car had a card key as well and that one worked. I got about 5 codes saying theft detected and immobilized i thought i was done for... switching back out reset to normal luckily DO NOT DO THIS LOL

yea been there lol if the key, key ring, and rke don’t match she don’t do shit 🤣 props tho, very impressive work and documentation, def went the hardest way possible but it led to more understanding of the car so I think that’s great. I think Rx8s are in general kind of rough at idle especially when they aren’t in great shape or have been modified a lot. I haven’t owned that many so I can’t speak for too many, but I’m sure some other members can confirm. I think the best solution would be to get tuning software like VersaTuner, its what I use, or I guess MazdaEdit is pretty good too. You can adjust idle speeds in general as well as the adjustments the car makes for various conditions. You can also do a little with the DTCs as far as reading and disabling but you might get more out of Forscan I’m not sure. From what I understand VersaTuner is more for the ECU engine management and Forscan is better suited for the cars other systems so with both you can probably get to pretty much everything. Other than that I think your best bet for compatibility is to try to use as many of the control modules as you can from the same donor car so they have the matching programming or get reprogrammed if possible. Sensors however are usually meant to be replaced and I would probably go with new ones if possible just to be safe.

thanks for the reply! yea i definitely went the hard route but thats ok like you said ive learned everything about the car and it needed gone thru bad.

everything is driving and working now with no lights on the dash except the airpump cel! i even checked forscan codes and got an all clear on all the modules once but i know there is an RKE code saying software incompatibility with cluster.

The only other module that can be switched is the TPMS which seems to be exactly the same device. I have a few times seen the tpms light flash after a 20 mile drive but it never stays on like it should with 2 tpms missing.

Here is a screen grab from forscan showing the module data. here you can see everything matches the 2004 pcm except the newer RKE which i guess the instrument cluster doesnt know how to read? all lights/keys/immobilizer works fine but havnt tried programming a key card yet $$
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...dc399f3f00.jpg

Can you provide a basic shopping list to complete this project?

1. appropriate year MT parts car
2. good locksmith
3. two t-taps

Damn .... I just read everything you're doing or did and that's pretty cool !!! Props to you!!

I've been doing quite the reading about swapping as well cause i have a 05 Mt base model , but i want a cw just cause they look so good lol but also would like to have sunroof and the extra fancy interior 😅

I found a stupid cheap 06 cw with 63k on it , but it's Auto and even tho I would be throwing a REW motor in it , I'm not sure if I'd be able or what would I need to transfer from my 05 6sp Mt to it to make it work.

Been waiting for a blown manual cw with low miles to pop, but nothing yet 😅

Thanks for the compliment. I still cant seem to get cruise control to work and the keyless module system doesnt work so i have to use the key from the card like a regular old key. If you have a regular keyless system not the advance you wont have any issue there, but if you do make sure the parts car does as well. The cruise control worked for kevin so maybe mine is just because the cluster is old or from one without?

https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...ything-274079/
.

auto to manual rear plate
 

Apologies for the necro.

This may be a dumb question but - I found out today just how different a 6port automatic vs a 6port manual rear iron is. The auto has a very different starter bolt-up configuration (bolts go into iron perpendicular to the iron, vs. the manual starter bolts up like the transmission does - longitudinally).
I searched but no luck - is there any sort of conversion plate to enable using a manual starter on an automatic rear iron?
Can't remember if the US ever got 6 port autos (6spd), but they are the majority of what's available from the JDM import stores right now, as 6port 6 spd manuals are rare and usually $600+ more.

Regards,

sil80

I have fitted an engine with a auto rear iron into a manual ...no problem at all. You end up one bolt down which doesn't create an issue. Just made up a panel to cover the hole left where auto starter goes.

yes you can use the same 6port motor from AT to MT. Like brettus said its just gonna leave an open hole above the MT starter you can cover if you want

Thank you both for the confirmation. Trying to look for a pic, so there is still a bolt hole or two to be used on the trans to bolt to?