RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

I imagine at some point, the size of the vacuum leak could get big enough that it tosses this guideline out the window, but it should be obvious at that point. I also imagine that if someone runs with a vacuum leak long enough, the LTFT would adjust to compensate for it, so probably also add the caveat that the trims should be relatively new.

BigMikeATL

How did you find such a small vacuum leak?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

I didn't even know it was there until MM pointed out that I had a vacuum leak from my logs during remote tuning. I did all the driveway tricks i could and never found it, finally decided to pull the UIM, and only after I pulled it did I see the slight pinch of the gasket and some discoloration about a hair's width wide on the flange next to the pinch. Replaced the gasket and re-installed, vacuum leak was gone.

BigMikeATL

@RIWWP - Do you think I should take this to a professional tuner? or would you recommend shelling out the coin for MazdaManiac's services?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

You will be shelling out cash either way, and tbh, I would pick someone other than MM. Not someone random though. Someone that knows the type of issues you could be dealing with.

Not to throw him on the spot, but Kane would probably be who I would go to.

Carbon8

iTrader: (4)

I am just trying to think what else could cause stalling when going into neutral while coasting,

EX 6th gear 70 MPH, put the car in neutral while still moving RPM drop but don't idle and the car stalls out. Will fire right back up and idle fine. STFT are not correcting fast enough leading the car to stall

Not sure what else could cause that besides a vacuum leak.

I built a fogger

RX-8 Hymee Supercharger Install - Smoke Tester

I contacted MM about my car, took him over 3 weeks to respond to my email. I didn't want that type of communication lag so I went else where.

It also seems he will only tell you you have a problem, its your responsibility to get it diagnosed/ fixed.

BigMikeATL

Could a faulty neutral switch cause stalling?

One thing to note is that if I have the car sitting in my driveway in neutral, I can rev the daylights out of it and it never stalls.

BigMikeATL

Who'd you end up going with instead?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Front O2 sensor failure, low compression, bad tune, etc...

Carbon8

iTrader: (4)

Even if the car starts right up both hot and cold and your A/F are perfect at idle.

I went with Kane, it is still my responsibility to make sure my car is mechanically sound and to fix things. But communication is great, multiple emails and calls daily if needed and he explains a lot about doing it so you learn as you go.

Its not some guy giving you a map and saying here you go while you have no idea what was done.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

If the AFRs are perfect at idle, then I think only a tuning problem could produce that effect. (which is what I think his problem is here)

Carbon8

iTrader: (4)

I would be interested to know his MAF voltage in corresponding to the G/s

WingleBeast

MM new setup where he tunes during a Google chat session works great, plus he can talk you through what he is looking at

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App

RotaryMachineRx

iTrader: (1)

My setup is nearly identical, you said you were taking that log while on the throttle? take a separate log at idle and a log trying to go WOT in 3rd...... this should give everyone alot more info. A Mazdamaniac tune is not a bad idea to get and i can tell you now that the stalling when pressing the clutch in when coming down from high rpms in higher gears is due to your VTA BOV. If I am in any gear 3rd or higher and depress the clutch while coming down from 4 or 5k rpm and higher my engine will stall also, as long as you down shift or let the rpms fall down below this before pressing clutch and it wont happen

As a user of the old MM tuning system and the new way he does it I can say Mazdamaniacs new tuning process is much much more informative and user friendly; although Ive heard many a good thing about Kane as well but have not experienced it first hand

BigMikeATL

That log is at idle after being fully warmed up. There are a couple revs to about 4k in there just for variety. I'll keep the "rev target" in mind next time I take it for a spin and see if it still happens to stall...

I already reached out to Kane. He and I are planning to sync up this weekend.

Carbon8

iTrader: (4)

Log it again at idle, record all parameters.

Would be nice to see MAF V,

And ign seperation under WOT will

Kane

iTrader: (1)

I have not much to add. I just want to say that it is awesome to see the tuning knowledge level so much higher on here than it has been! You guys rule.

Eliminate all the variables down to one, and then solve for X. Keep that in mind and it will make a lot more sense once we talk. Issues at idle mean you MUST solve the idle first, tuning anything else is a waste of time.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

VTA and the Greddy intake, oh no. I would suggest getting a full intake setup that routes the filter outside of the engine bay and uses a properly sized MAF pipe. You don't really want to tune if you plan on making and changes to the intake setup anytime soon. So either get the recirculation kit for your BOV and have a fitting welded to your turbo inlet pipe (intake) and tune it as is or get the BOV recirculated and get a proper Intake setup.

I also suggest removing your front bumper and give all the piping, clamps, and couplers a good once over and if you can, create the leak tester like we did (link provided by carbon8) and check everything in sections. You can buy pipe cap fittings from Home Depot or Lowes to help with this.

The main thing is to insure everything is squared away mechanically before you start tuning.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

I agree - VTA is such a pain on a MAF based tune .
Plus I've seen horrendous intake temps from that greddy intake design .

Mike - get those things sorted ... THEN see what you have and get a new tune .

BigMikeATL

Ok.

If I convert the BoV to recirculate, where does the hose attach to? I'm guessing I'm going to have to find someone to modify the intake, no?

I've attached another pic of the engine bay for anyone that's interested.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Here is my setup .


To make the intake some modify the AEM intake . Cheaper way would be to use one of these and make your own with some bends and couplers.


DENSO -2/Bosch MAF, Mass Air Meter Flange Pipe, Subaru, Scion, Mazda, Toyota, Lexus - TREADSTONE PERFORMANCE

golde4u

Hey Mike, have you talked to the guys at Mazcare since your in Atl?


Posted from Rx8club.com App for Android

BigMikeATL

Yeah. I've been going to them for years. Charlie isn't a big fan of turbos on the renesis.

I'm working with Kane on the tune. Looks like we need to start from scratch. I'm converting the BoV to recirc and replacing the greddy intake with one from AEM.

Once it's running again, I'm going to take it to them so they can do a compression test and give it the once over.

golde4u

check out 3 face racing in Conyers. they do rotaries and have a dyno


Posted from Rx8club.com App for Android

yomomspimp06

I fogot about 3face. they are awesome with Pre-renesis rotaries. I have never seen them work on a renesis though...