Turbo sparkplugs?
02-21-2009, 06:29 PM
#1
Metatron
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Turbo sparkplugs?
In a Greddy turbo kit install, when would the suggestion to 'run 4 trailing plugs' be relevant?
Is there a certain psi/boost level?
What is the need and advantages, and are there any disadvantages?
S
Is there a certain psi/boost level?
What is the need and advantages, and are there any disadvantages?
S
02-21-2009, 06:33 PM
#2
I had some NGK BUR9EQP FD trailing plugs in the leading spot and didn't notice a difference, except for more difficult starting.
It should also be noted that people using FD trailing plugs are changing them more often. They don't have the Idrium tips and aren't lasting that long.
I just swapped mine out for OEM due to a misfire issue I have and am trying to diagnose. Once I get solved I may swap them back in.
It should also be noted that people using FD trailing plugs are changing them more often. They don't have the Idrium tips and aren't lasting that long.
I just swapped mine out for OEM due to a misfire issue I have and am trying to diagnose. Once I get solved I may swap them back in.
02-21-2009, 08:29 PM
#3
Typically, the factory plugs are until 60-70 h.p. (+/-) above the stock power levels.
Biggest advantage is that the FD plugs cost less than the RE7s.
02-26-2009, 11:03 PM
#5
Actually, HKS, NGK, and a few others make the Racing Iridiums for the RX-8 in cooler heat ranges but they are kinda pricey. It's not so much that the FD plugs are the best but, perhaps, the most reasonable option when all things are considered.
02-26-2009, 11:09 PM
#7
Jeff and I don't necessarily agree on everything and this is probably one area where we don't. The fact that I have a customer using some NGK Iridiums in the 10.5 heat range (and that NGK makes them for the Renesis) without issue helps me to be confident in my disagreement.
02-27-2009, 08:38 AM
#9
My opinion on that; Mazda has a few cases with the RX-8 where they have "grasped at straws" in an effort to solve a particular problem/issue so I don't generally take one change they make as indicative of anything nor a basis for any conclusions.
I also don't think that two guys from the same team disagreeing on certain matters is a bad thing, either.
I also don't think that two guys from the same team disagreeing on certain matters is a bad thing, either.
03-01-2009, 11:23 AM
#12
BDC Motorsports
B
03-01-2009, 11:25 AM
#13
BDC Motorsports
I had some NGK BUR9EQP FD trailing plugs in the leading spot and didn't notice a difference, except for more difficult starting.
It should also be noted that people using FD trailing plugs are changing them more often. They don't have the Idrium tips and aren't lasting that long.
I just swapped mine out for OEM due to a misfire issue I have and am trying to diagnose. Once I get solved I may swap them back in.
It should also be noted that people using FD trailing plugs are changing them more often. They don't have the Idrium tips and aren't lasting that long.
I just swapped mine out for OEM due to a misfire issue I have and am trying to diagnose. Once I get solved I may swap them back in.
B
03-01-2009, 11:32 AM
#14
The OE plugs are a "cross" design in the leading position and a "beam" design in the leading.
I use the "cross" design in the leading (all 9 heat ranges) and I don't have high-RPM misfires, even at at AbsoluteLOADs above 200%.
I do, however, have a problem with the plugs "going away" rather quickly that I'd like to solve.
Knowing that the Renesis leading plug is the same size as the 13b's plugs, exactly what plug would you recommend be put in that position?
03-01-2009, 11:40 AM
#15
BDC Motorsports
The OE plugs are a "cross" design in the leading position and a "beam" design in the leading.
I use the "cross" design in the leading (all 9 heat ranges) and I don't have high-RPM misfires, even at at AbsoluteLOADs above 200%.
I use the "cross" design in the leading (all 9 heat ranges) and I don't have high-RPM misfires, even at at AbsoluteLOADs above 200%.
I do, however, have a problem with the plugs "going away" rather quickly that I'd like to solve.
Knowing that the Renesis leading plug is the same size as the 13b's plugs, exactly what plug would you recommend be put in that position?
Knowing that the Renesis leading plug is the same size as the 13b's plugs, exactly what plug would you recommend be put in that position?
03-01-2009, 11:53 AM
#16
You may think you don't have any misfires (I'm not talking about the big, heavy-duty ones) but you do. At high RPM (6krpm and above), you'd be surprised how many misfires one can get. The practical end-effect is a bit of 'drag' on the motor, higher EGT's, weird stuff if all of that is truly being watched. And, the problem compounds itself the more load that's being run.
I don't have any of that.
Egts continue to drop after the torque peak and power follows the expected arc.
Looks good. I'll try those at some point.
03-01-2009, 12:26 PM
#17
Yes, on my Turbo II but I'm running significantly higher loads than most the folks here so my issues were more prevalent prior to swapping out the BUR plugs.
You may think you don't have any misfires (I'm not talking about the big, heavy-duty ones) but you do. At high RPM (6krpm and above), you'd be surprised how many misfires one can get. The practical end-effect is a bit of 'drag' on the motor, higher EGT's, weird stuff if all of that is truly being watched. And, the problem compounds itself the more load that's being run.
I use an NGK R-679410 packaged in a GReddy box. It's a race plug admittedly but the 10 heat range may not be a bad thing especially for the 10:1 RE motor running boost. Also far superior in design to the BUR style plug as it's a single electrode setup. Much better for high RPM and heavier loads. Still hot enough, even on my 8.5:1 partial-bridge RE setup, to be run on the street.
You may think you don't have any misfires (I'm not talking about the big, heavy-duty ones) but you do. At high RPM (6krpm and above), you'd be surprised how many misfires one can get. The practical end-effect is a bit of 'drag' on the motor, higher EGT's, weird stuff if all of that is truly being watched. And, the problem compounds itself the more load that's being run.
I use an NGK R-679410 packaged in a GReddy box. It's a race plug admittedly but the 10 heat range may not be a bad thing especially for the 10:1 RE motor running boost. Also far superior in design to the BUR style plug as it's a single electrode setup. Much better for high RPM and heavier loads. Still hot enough, even on my 8.5:1 partial-bridge RE setup, to be run on the street.
03-01-2009, 12:37 PM
#20
BDC Motorsports
03-01-2009, 04:17 PM
#21
THe 13b had 22mm plug holes on the leading and trailing.
The Renesis has a 22mm leading depth and a 19mm trailing depth.
If you try to put a 21.5mm plug in the trailing position, it will bottom out and and eventually distort the housing when it comes to temperature.
03-01-2009, 05:44 PM
#23
BDC Motorsports
Washers are absolutely needed.
THe 13b had 22mm plug holes on the leading and trailing.
The Renesis has a 22mm leading depth and a 19mm trailing depth.
If you try to put a 21.5mm plug in the trailing position, it will bottom out and and eventually distort the housing when it comes to temperature.
THe 13b had 22mm plug holes on the leading and trailing.
The Renesis has a 22mm leading depth and a 19mm trailing depth.
If you try to put a 21.5mm plug in the trailing position, it will bottom out and and eventually distort the housing when it comes to temperature.
B
03-01-2009, 06:32 PM
#24
if the washers were supposedly not needed, but were used anyways due to not having proof it's needed or not, would that affect anything performance wise? (can anyone follow what i'm saying?)
