Another $499, it doesn't make any difference however.. Only on large frame turbos I've been able to notice. I even did a back to back( was different cars however) and spool was within 50 rpms of a journal bearing unit...

 

We do make a low mount kit.... Same price, only major differences are its only available with a Ball Bearing GT35R with a Tial 1.03 vband turbine housing, and it doesn't come with the hardlined radiator lines as they aren't necessary. Obviously you can retain your OMP if you wish.


And for those asking about longevity, I have another forum members car under the knife for out top mount system. I will be dyno tuning this car with the adaptronic ECU, and we will see how long one lasts around 400rwhp...

 

Wouldn't the new GTX3576 be a better fit?

 

It would, but lets see who wants to pony up for the extra cost...

 

Seems to me in the overall scheme of things that is a relatively minimal upgrade

 

have you read the damn thread?

Quote:

Originally Posted by turblown

it might be easier/faster to just start emailing me direct; turblown@gmail.com

read what he said

 

I did, but that is good information for everyone to know. Questions specific to me, I will email him.

 

Sorry just wanted to make sure I'm clear on this... It was Approx. $2000 for the manifold, dp and journal bearing GT35R? Approx $2499 to get that same kit with the BB GT35R? I see you noticed miniumal spooling changes between the two but what about turbo longevity between the Journal and BB... or does having it water cooled make their lives relatively the same?

Edit: I guess that I'll also add in that, my plans would be to integrate this mani/dp/turbo to my greddy piping/ic/etc and my target WHP goals are between 350 and 400..... I realize there are other upgrades need to hit a goal such as that and I'm very aware of what they are; most of which I already have.... just didnt want to clutter this thread.

 

Price does not include the turbo just DP, Manifold and New Motor Mount. At low boost pressures zero difference in longevity, in my experience the journal bearings turbos seem to always last longer..

 

Ah yes... good reading skills on my part ... either way this is still very high on my wishlist of upgrades for my GReddy kit

 

Why is the low mount kit gonna be priced the same as the top mount, isn't there less fabrication like the hardlined radiator lines ?

 

Uses a Tial housing( and Tial flanges/clamps are A LOT more than regular stuff). Tial turbine housing requires BB upgrade instantly.

 

He hasn't even seen the price for that yet, lol

 

Turblown, I have noticed most of your kits come with or customers add water injection to them, are you having more success with them?

there are more threads that say its not worth it, or useless. I was curious of your experience with it so far?

 

Never thought of that...mmm

 

OK...here are my modifications and you tell me what you personally would be comfortable with considering the car see's track use once per month and is daily driven:

BHR ignition, BHR midpipe, Greddy Exhaust, AEM intake, Cobb AP, Mazmart Remedy pump and thermostat, ACT flywheel/clutch.

So...assuming about 350 wHP (low mount) do you recommend any other upgrades? All I would need to get is your base kit (I think you said $6.5k...I'm planning)? Any other suggestions? Catch can for external 2 stroke?

The last thing I want is for this thing to start having issues during a race cause I didnt plan properly (like insufficient cooling, other supportive mods, etc).


EDIT: I have another question but this is more of a what do you think for everyone. I was reviewing the dyno sheet for the 425 wHP pull and saw peek power around 8300 rpm's. Would it make sense to shift around 8400 rpm since it starts to fall off slightly at that point? I'm asking this with reguard to logevity. Whats the point of pushing it further to redline?

EDIT 2: your lamborghini parts link at the bottom of the Turboblown webpage goes to the Rx8 Special offers page! LMAO!!!

EDIT 3: I assume battery relocation is extra since I only saw mention of it needing to be done but no hardware being included to do it?

 

I measure 6" between the OMP and the subframe/chassis rail across from it. Seems to me it can be made to work, but requires some modification to other components to optimize all of the available space. Or at least it seemed obvious to me.

 

In addition to our base kit you will want a vented catch can of some sorts, and a battery relocation kit is required. Do not use a small battery, the bigger the better. I haven't ventured into doing track driven turbo Rx-8s personally, but I do have a lot of Rx-7 experience. I would assume you will want a bigger radiator, I would contact Ron Davis. I would also do a larger oil pan with a nice trap doors/baffle plates(unlike the greddy unit). I would also do a large oil cooler kit, with ducts, and fans( if track is low speed like autoX). I would also get well designed vented hood. Water injection would be a nice plus if using pump gas. I would also run a lot colder race plugs for track use, something in the 10 L 11 T heat range if road course racing. You should be at 350rwhp with our low mount kit with your existing mods.

I would shift at peak torque, or slightly after depending upon gearing. Plan you shifts so you carry the highest amount of peak torque for the longest time.

I have discontinued our Lamborghini parts, getting sick and tired of working with those guys. I prefer to work with enthusiasts who car about going fast, not looking cool..

 

How will the colder plugs affect street use? Any different then the plugs you already include in the kit?

Peak torque? Really? Peak torque on the 425 wHP pull was around 7500 rpm but power was still sky rocketing at that point. Wouldn't 8300 (maybe even 8k) ish rpm make more sense or are you referring to logevity/reliability like I stated in my post? Would it be possible to tune for a higher torque average (across a certain RPM range) with this setup and maybe even lower the redline a tad? or would that better be addressed with a different size turbo?

 

You won't win many races doing that ....

 

Bump

 

Cold plugs usually foul faster with street use. We do however prefer to use the NGK " race " plugs which last considerably longer. It really depends on how cold you go, and how you drive.. If one is driving like a grandma a lot and only do small pulls on the street you can get away with hotter plugs.

I did just make a long writeup but it was just deleted, and I don't feel like retyping.

Get yourself a Vbox and you can determine your shift points based on acceleration rates..

 

You can get the NGK race plug down to a 9 heat range which isn't too bad for the street except maybe in the far north during the winter

A general rule is to shift at or just after the hp peak


.

 

i know turblown has been kicking around the low mount turbo system for awhile now. im intrested in the setup now since my oil lines and setup are in the way.

 

Redesign, round 2