hi all,
i am trying to modify little bit my thermostat housing for my turbo set up.
before i always have my mechanic working on my car, but this time, decided to do myself. i have fixed everything, welding and others...
now, i try to reroute my water line. instead of going to the side, now as you can see the pics, its going to the front...
question now, i need your inputs guys if you are willing to give.
the pictures below, the first and the second thermostat housing are different.
the first one is stock, and second one is cut and we close the hole that goes to the lower part, i think you have to look at the pic.
DO YOU GUYS THINK THAT IT WILL AFFECT THE FLOW OF THE WATER? IS IT GOING TO BE FINE? just wondering...thank you for all the advice

steven

 

that's the warm-up bypass port when the engine is cold

just doing something without researching and understanding what you are doing before actually doing it is a potential recipe for disaster

I guess we all crave for some drama in our lives ...

 

yeah i know..that's why i need some advice of what will happen or what teh side effects or a god idea...something like that..

if that's the warm-up bypass port, does it mean that it will get warmed up longer? or it is going to affect the cooling system? or it is a bad idea?

 

without going into a long explanation why---you need the bypass to be functional. Do not close it up unless you are using the car for racing only.
Rerouting the radiator hose should be Ok to do? Good idea if you needed the clearance.
its probably just the picture but make sure the overflow tank ( plastic one) is the highest point in the cooling system--it looks like the therm cover may be as high?
Again good thinking on rerouting the hose.

 

OD, message you man...i hope you can give me some advice..lol..
steven

 

Do you have any other pictures....

you need to figure out the bypass for sure.....but it's difficult to tell what you did with the rest of the stuff from that area

 

Dann,
thank you for chime in for my need of some knowledge..
i did some reading little bit, but the conclusion is that if i wanna do this way, i have to take the thermostat away from the housing so the water can flow. it is becoming "restrictor flow" instead of "FREE FLOW" which is always the best for the street use.

basically when you see my last pic, that's the connection to the lower radiator. i am planning to use the outlet on the aluminium piping as you can see in the pic for the split outlet to the "firewall" and "the bottom of the coolant reservoir". also, i will connect also the bottom of the reservoir to the top of the radiator, just incase.
i don't know if it's a good idea...l
let me know if you need to see more pics, so i can take more pics when i get home

thank you one more time
steven

 

More pics would help

You need to have a bypass so you have flow through the block when the thermostat is closed

 

You have to delete the T-stat if you are going to plug the bypass. The T-stat plugs that portion when it is opens. I know of an Rx-8 running this way on the street( plugged/no tstat).

 

no you dont have to go without a thermostat if you plug the bypass.
A barrel type thermostat with just a little modification will work. I have done it but had problems with overcooling.

 

overcooling? it is funny when it happens to rotary since they create alot of heat.

OD, thank you for your advice..i might figure out how to make the bypass from the piping. i might have to get an extra thermostat housing which is the "inline thermostat housing with w/ thermostat in it", so it close the upper radiator, an reroute it to lower chamber...
steven

 

heck -- maybe you can take the oem thermostat cover -- clock it -- and make some addition tabs for the bolts?
Or are you also looking to move the lower hose that comes off the thermostat housing and exits to the side? That one too?

 

Why couldn't you just re-drill the bypass? You might have to do a bit more TIG welding to get it sealed up but that would be best

 

we need a facepalm forum

 

OD and Dan,
i will give you more details...this is one of the old top mount style..if you know what i meant...old distributor..i used to do lower mount with the same type of turbo, T67, now i decided to do top mount...it has been running good, but it's winter, so i decided to tackle little bit of water line and htings that i need to get things away..
these are the pics that i want to show you guys, since you guys don't mind chime in helping for the advice...and other ppl, who dont like the topic, can leave it without any comment
the stock style, the lower hose goes through between extension and downpipe so just try to come up with some trials....
as you can see, the lower hose, there is a hole, and will do 2 outlet from there, one go to firewall and lower reservoir....just ask you guys some advice..
as you guys can see, from the left
stock, now, my reservoir, the distance from turbo to hose, and my old set up..

 

dont worry , we are already in since "you are in already by posting it"

it's ok team, i know you got annoyed sometimes, and i am sorry for that, but i am here to get some advice,..i like to read, but posting, not really. i post whenever i need some advices..that's all, and if you are not willing to give it, don't have to read it..go along with peace in mind,,thats all...some people are good at one thing, some people have time to do research, some people have good information but lazy to share it, some ppl like to give advice even if they have been saying it many times because they understand about the situations out there..that's the people that i am looking for...
well, let's take this topic back, but please whoever don't feel share the advice,
DONT POST....let it go...
thank you
steven

 

DAN and OD,

this is what i am talking about inline thermostat housing...i might try use it at the end before tap it like DAN said before...what do you guys think?

steven

 

steven :wors hip:

 

Ohhhhh---ok I see what you are trying to do now. I didnt realize the plastic air separation/overflow/expansion tank was no longer going to be used? Is that correct?
How will you control the coolant pressure/air without one?
The reason I ask is I dont see the hookups for the hoses on the new thermostat housing?
If you want to medusa those inlets on the one showing (lower radiator hose one) that will be ok--they all blend into the same flow.
Now about the by pass---that has to be managed from the thermostat housing. Here is a picture that may help.

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1316363416.

See the bottom part of the oem thermostat on the right? That is the part that controls the by pass. It closes as the top part of the thermostat opens.

Dont pay any attention to the housing on the left --that is one i modified for a barrel type therm. You can see how much restriction is removed in the coolant path by using a barrel type. Kept it too cool.

Very nice set up--really like the shield for the pcm.
OD

This is interesting.

 

I's not sure why you cant make the stock bypass work well.....Not a big fan of the inline thermostat...I don't think it has a bypass either...so you are still going to have the flow problems with the thermostat closed

The only concern I would have is the path the coolant has to take now...you went from a straight path to a 90 degree bend. I'm sure if you were careful it will work

 

wait wait, i think i confused my self and all of you guys...sorry
let's clarify my understanding..
1) those 2 outlets (straight and bent) in the first pic, is that the bypass ? or the hole that i close (as you can see that hole in the 2nd pic..see the difference?)...confused..sorry man...i messed up..lol..
2) 4th pic, that's the line that coming out of lower radiator , which i am trying to make 2 outlet from that 5/8" hole, which is where the 2 outlets go as we can see the 1st pic. because as i know, the stock one, one outlet (the straight) for the lower coolant reservoir (which i have) and the other one (the bent) is for the firewall (is this the bypass?)...and the side one (1.5") is for lower radiator...the small one for Tb (not using it anymore)
3) since i see that the middle hole is clogged, that's what make me worry...that's all..that's what i thought called bypass?
4) for the TOP line that goes to the top radiator, i didn't hook it up yet, but you an see the 4th pic, there is a housing for thermostat that is opened still, not hooked up yet...

Dan, i am confused...sorry i hope you wanna review again...lol...i hope you guys understand what i am trying to say

 

you need to drill the center out in Pic 3 to match Pic 2

That passage is the bypass between the inlet and outlet. When the thermostat opens it has a rubber seal on a plunger that lowers and blocks the bypass passage off so all the flow goes to the radiator.

 

Bingo. The bypass is inside the thermostat housing like my picture shows.
As long as that hole is not blocked and you use an oem type thermostat then the by pass will work.
If you want to combine those lines--guess you could do that with no problems.

 

nice, that's what i am cunfused about...so i close the bypass between inlet and outlet...i will gifure out how to come up with some thing to make sure that the flow still happens..
thank you team..

yeah, that's what i am planning to do ...combine those 2 lines..
well, thank you for all the advice...i will post more pics once finish,,

steven

 

Thank you for justifying my facepalm post, though it was intended towards other people posting at that time.

I just told you how to correct it in the post you are acknowledging (as did Dan earlier). Just drill the hole down the center like in the original t-stat neck.

sheesh