slvrstreak's latest build thread
06-27-2013, 09:37 AM
#104
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
iTrader: (9)
06-27-2013, 09:51 AM
#107
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
iTrader: (9)
im talking about my boot. do you have a boot to the ***** fetish?
btw you are supposed to be using my post from a few weeks ago for your sig. i cant remember what it was tho lol
btw you are supposed to be using my post from a few weeks ago for your sig. i cant remember what it was tho lol
06-30-2013, 08:56 AM
#109
I just rn across this thread--respect Levi.
My old car----sigh.
One resource that you haven't mentioned--SPEEDSOURCE. They may still have some left over parts you would be interested in. Look to the other pro teams for help--they are more friendly to serious builders than some may think.
The Dash and its frame is not that heavy. The wiring harness weigh's more. I would suggest like others have said --to leave it to begin with for the defrost etc, get the car redynoed--weight it and then submit for classing. You may not want to lose more weight.
if you are serious about racing--I would also get the trans and the diff microblued--the results will surprise you. There is a LOT of power being lost through the rx8's drivetrain--look at what the Mazda Star spec n/a engine dyno's for an example of drivetrain lost. Beside during wheel to wheel racing the trans and oil temps get very hot. Shoot Dan some PM's about that.
You are also going to need bigger oil coolers and speak to Cam about how to better cooler the s/c's nose drive for competition purposes.
I can't wait to see this bad boy running.
By the way I picked something up yesterday..........:}
My old car----sigh.
One resource that you haven't mentioned--SPEEDSOURCE. They may still have some left over parts you would be interested in. Look to the other pro teams for help--they are more friendly to serious builders than some may think.
The Dash and its frame is not that heavy. The wiring harness weigh's more. I would suggest like others have said --to leave it to begin with for the defrost etc, get the car redynoed--weight it and then submit for classing. You may not want to lose more weight.
if you are serious about racing--I would also get the trans and the diff microblued--the results will surprise you. There is a LOT of power being lost through the rx8's drivetrain--look at what the Mazda Star spec n/a engine dyno's for an example of drivetrain lost. Beside during wheel to wheel racing the trans and oil temps get very hot. Shoot Dan some PM's about that.
You are also going to need bigger oil coolers and speak to Cam about how to better cooler the s/c's nose drive for competition purposes.
I can't wait to see this bad boy running.
By the way I picked something up yesterday..........:}
06-30-2013, 02:46 PM
#110
Life begins @ 30 psi
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Columbia, MD
Posts: 1,745
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I just rn across this thread--respect Levi.
My old car----sigh.
One resource that you haven't mentioned--SPEEDSOURCE. They may still have some left over parts you would be interested in. Look to the other pro teams for help--they are more friendly to serious builders than some may think.
The Dash and its frame is not that heavy. The wiring harness weigh's more. I would suggest like others have said --to leave it to begin with for the defrost etc, get the car redynoed--weight it and then submit for classing. You may not want to lose more weight.
if you are serious about racing--I would also get the trans and the diff microblued--the results will surprise you. There is a LOT of power being lost through the rx8's drivetrain--look at what the Mazda Star spec n/a engine dyno's for an example of drivetrain lost. Beside during wheel to wheel racing the trans and oil temps get very hot. Shoot Dan some PM's about that.
You are also going to need bigger oil coolers and speak to Cam about how to better cooler the s/c's nose drive for competition purposes.
I can't wait to see this bad boy running.
By the way I picked something up yesterday..........:}
My old car----sigh.
One resource that you haven't mentioned--SPEEDSOURCE. They may still have some left over parts you would be interested in. Look to the other pro teams for help--they are more friendly to serious builders than some may think.
The Dash and its frame is not that heavy. The wiring harness weigh's more. I would suggest like others have said --to leave it to begin with for the defrost etc, get the car redynoed--weight it and then submit for classing. You may not want to lose more weight.
if you are serious about racing--I would also get the trans and the diff microblued--the results will surprise you. There is a LOT of power being lost through the rx8's drivetrain--look at what the Mazda Star spec n/a engine dyno's for an example of drivetrain lost. Beside during wheel to wheel racing the trans and oil temps get very hot. Shoot Dan some PM's about that.
You are also going to need bigger oil coolers and speak to Cam about how to better cooler the s/c's nose drive for competition purposes.
I can't wait to see this bad boy running.
By the way I picked something up yesterday..........:}
07-01-2013, 06:59 AM
#113
I just rn across this thread--respect Levi.
My old car----sigh.
One resource that you haven't mentioned--SPEEDSOURCE. They may still have some left over parts you would be interested in. Look to the other pro teams for help--they are more friendly to serious builders than some may think.
The Dash and its frame is not that heavy. The wiring harness weigh's more. I would suggest like others have said --to leave it to begin with for the defrost etc, get the car redynoed--weight it and then submit for classing. You may not want to lose more weight.
if you are serious about racing--I would also get the trans and the diff microblued--the results will surprise you. There is a LOT of power being lost through the rx8's drivetrain--look at what the Mazda Star spec n/a engine dyno's for an example of drivetrain lost. Beside during wheel to wheel racing the trans and oil temps get very hot. Shoot Dan some PM's about that.
You are also going to need bigger oil coolers and speak to Cam about how to better cooler the s/c's nose drive for competition purposes.
I can't wait to see this bad boy running.
By the way I picked something up yesterday..........:}
My old car----sigh.
One resource that you haven't mentioned--SPEEDSOURCE. They may still have some left over parts you would be interested in. Look to the other pro teams for help--they are more friendly to serious builders than some may think.
The Dash and its frame is not that heavy. The wiring harness weigh's more. I would suggest like others have said --to leave it to begin with for the defrost etc, get the car redynoed--weight it and then submit for classing. You may not want to lose more weight.
if you are serious about racing--I would also get the trans and the diff microblued--the results will surprise you. There is a LOT of power being lost through the rx8's drivetrain--look at what the Mazda Star spec n/a engine dyno's for an example of drivetrain lost. Beside during wheel to wheel racing the trans and oil temps get very hot. Shoot Dan some PM's about that.
You are also going to need bigger oil coolers and speak to Cam about how to better cooler the s/c's nose drive for competition purposes.
I can't wait to see this bad boy running.
By the way I picked something up yesterday..........:}
very insightful conversation
who is Dan?
I assumed I would have to upgrade the oil coolers any specific ideas on that?
cooling for the supercharger's nose drive? don't think I'm following...
I've been following your thread...car looks like a beast
can't wait to get on track with it
I'll post pics of the seats/steering wheel in a few
07-01-2013, 01:33 PM
#114
Life begins @ 30 psi
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Columbia, MD
Posts: 1,745
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07-01-2013, 01:36 PM
#115
07-01-2013, 05:36 PM
#116
right--dannobre
Supercharger nose drive is the part of the s.c. you put the oil in dude
SUSTAINED high rpm as in w/w racing MAY cause a heat problem there. In TT it probably will not as you are just after the best lap.
You will not be able to run the water meth to help cool the s.c. if you are in TT/or wheel to wheel.
I would first things first though--leave the w/m on there while you are learning the car--it will be good insurance.
Oh yea--since you are in a buying mood--do what I suggested some time back---get the 4:11 rear diff--you can thank me later....
LOL--yep the ZO6....shall we say I am in a profound learning curve--mostly evolving the right foot. Damn bifocals wont let me focus on the hud well--lol!
Supercharger nose drive is the part of the s.c. you put the oil in dude
SUSTAINED high rpm as in w/w racing MAY cause a heat problem there. In TT it probably will not as you are just after the best lap.
You will not be able to run the water meth to help cool the s.c. if you are in TT/or wheel to wheel.
I would first things first though--leave the w/m on there while you are learning the car--it will be good insurance.
Oh yea--since you are in a buying mood--do what I suggested some time back---get the 4:11 rear diff--you can thank me later....
LOL--yep the ZO6....shall we say I am in a profound learning curve--mostly evolving the right foot.
Damn bifocals wont let me focus on the hud well--lol!
07-02-2013, 06:37 AM
#117
I know I will need bigger coolers
is this setup a single cooler or double?
right--dannobre
Supercharger nose drive is the part of the s.c. you put the oil in dude
SUSTAINED high rpm as in w/w racing MAY cause a heat problem there. In TT it probably will not as you are just after the best lap.
You will not be able to run the water meth to help cool the s.c. if you are in TT/or wheel to wheel.
I would first things first though--leave the w/m on there while you are learning the car--it will be good insurance.
Oh yea--since you are in a buying mood--do what I suggested some time back---get the 4:11 rear diff--you can thank me later....
LOL--yep the ZO6....shall we say I am in a profound learning curve--mostly evolving the right foot. Damn bifocals wont let me focus on the hud well--lol!
Supercharger nose drive is the part of the s.c. you put the oil in dude
SUSTAINED high rpm as in w/w racing MAY cause a heat problem there. In TT it probably will not as you are just after the best lap.
You will not be able to run the water meth to help cool the s.c. if you are in TT/or wheel to wheel.
I would first things first though--leave the w/m on there while you are learning the car--it will be good insurance.
Oh yea--since you are in a buying mood--do what I suggested some time back---get the 4:11 rear diff--you can thank me later....
LOL--yep the ZO6....shall we say I am in a profound learning curve--mostly evolving the right foot.
Damn bifocals wont let me focus on the hud well--lol!probably will upgrade the diff when upgrading a diff cooler setup
all this advice is greatly appreciated guys
07-02-2013, 08:22 AM
#118
right--dannobre
Supercharger nose drive is the part of the s.c. you put the oil in dude
SUSTAINED high rpm as in w/w racing MAY cause a heat problem there. In TT it probably will not as you are just after the best lap.
You will not be able to run the water meth to help cool the s.c. if you are in TT/or wheel to wheel.
I would first things first though--leave the w/m on there while you are learning the car--it will be good insurance.
Oh yea--since you are in a buying mood--do what I suggested some time back---get the 4:11 rear diff--you can thank me later....
LOL--yep the ZO6....shall we say I am in a profound learning curve--mostly evolving the right foot. Damn bifocals wont let me focus on the hud well--lol!
Supercharger nose drive is the part of the s.c. you put the oil in dude
SUSTAINED high rpm as in w/w racing MAY cause a heat problem there. In TT it probably will not as you are just after the best lap.
You will not be able to run the water meth to help cool the s.c. if you are in TT/or wheel to wheel.
I would first things first though--leave the w/m on there while you are learning the car--it will be good insurance.
Oh yea--since you are in a buying mood--do what I suggested some time back---get the 4:11 rear diff--you can thank me later....
LOL--yep the ZO6....shall we say I am in a profound learning curve--mostly evolving the right foot.
Damn bifocals wont let me focus on the hud well--lol!others have also recommended the 5.12 ring and pinion
Last edited by slvrstreak; 07-02-2013 at 08:48 AM.
07-02-2013, 09:48 AM
#119
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
iTrader: (9)
hey slvr i dont remember, what bumper is on ods car? please tell me its not a ms. if it is we should trade for weight savings on your end
07-02-2013, 10:10 AM
#121
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
You can do a single or double, I recommend staying with the double setup. You can even use your stock coolers if they are in good shape. You can just replace the lines with quality -10 lines and add a proper oil thermostat. That would make the system better. But if you want you could slap on a couple of nice Setrab units and have a great system. But you need to check the rules and see if any certain types of fitting need to be used.
07-02-2013, 11:36 AM
#123
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
iTrader: (9)
hey slvr when you pull the airbags grab a battery and some long wire and have fun blowing stuff up. its suprising how powerful they are. years ago my brother worked in a chevy dealer and the had a recall on them. he spent a month disposing of them and used to bring me some. not really supposed to but it was a blast
07-02-2013, 12:18 PM
#125
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
iTrader: (9)
