slvrstreak's latest build thread
06-20-2013, 12:35 PM
#52
Cool, I run KWV3s with Hyperco 10k/11k springs myself and they are definitely competitive. In the future I'd like to go to high end Ohlins. I would recommend taking the extra couple of points for A6s for TT. The difference between those tires in grip level for TT is astonishing. They are worth 2 seconds a lap over R6s, and no other mod is going to give you that kind of benefit. I've been running R6s this year and I've been busting my *** trying to keep up with guys on A6s or full slicks.
Good thread though, best one I've seen on RX8Club in ages.
Good thread though, best one I've seen on RX8Club in ages.
The softer stock springs on the KVW3s seem to definitely be the weak point imo
Does that cure the issue? ...if you want to call it that
06-20-2013, 02:47 PM
#53
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Now, unless you intend to re-valve them at the same time I wouldn't go much higher than 10k/11k on the KWs. I view them as a good mid-range option for a track car, not insanely expensive, and better than other options in the same price range. Eventually I'll need to step up to something that is more $$$ like high end JRZs or Ohlin's.
On the tires, the A6s are a huge difference. The benefit of R6s is longevity, so you can get more track time and run a set of R6s for more events than the A6s. It cuts costs obviously, but you won't be setting any track records with R6s. You might be competitive in your region depending on who you are running against. In NASA NE where I run mostly, if you were to run in certain classes with R6s you would be annihilated by guys like Thai Depp and Mark Cantor. Thai runs in TT3 a class below me and is routinely a full second or more faster than I am with him on A6s and me on R6s. Our cars are very similarly set up, but I have a higher P/W ratio and worse tires.
For example Thai just set the TT3 track record at Thunderbolt without chicane, the following weekend, Thunderbolt with chicane, and a week after that the record at Summit Point Main.
Last edited by blackenedwings; 06-20-2013 at 02:50 PM.
06-20-2013, 08:33 PM
#54
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slvr. I must commend you. It's so nice to see someone buying real, quality parts. That's on top of an all out track build.
I want to say that 10k/11k might need re-valved since the the standard v3 is ~8k/5k. Honestly, i'd re-valve them anyway considering that they have some miles on them, especially track miles. talk to someone who knows spring rates before you decide. You'll probably want to ditch the progressive springs in the rear. Great for daily driving, but not as good on track as a linear spring.
If you decide to swap out all together give Vorshlag a call. some AST 5200's would be mighty killer on an rx8. I think they make something for your Evo too Blackened.
AST is king in the BMW world, especially since they bought Moton a couple years back. Not as expensive as highend Ohlins or JRZ's and very competitive. If i didn't have TC Kline DA's on my M3, i'd be shopping AST stuff.
I want to say that 10k/11k might need re-valved since the the standard v3 is ~8k/5k. Honestly, i'd re-valve them anyway considering that they have some miles on them, especially track miles. talk to someone who knows spring rates before you decide. You'll probably want to ditch the progressive springs in the rear. Great for daily driving, but not as good on track as a linear spring.
If you decide to swap out all together give Vorshlag a call. some AST 5200's would be mighty killer on an rx8. I think they make something for your Evo too Blackened.
AST is king in the BMW world, especially since they bought Moton a couple years back. Not as expensive as highend Ohlins or JRZ's and very competitive. If i didn't have TC Kline DA's on my M3, i'd be shopping AST stuff.
06-21-2013, 08:55 AM
#55
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slvr. I must commend you. It's so nice to see someone buying real, quality parts. That's on top of an all out track build.
I want to say that 10k/11k might need re-valved since the the standard v3 is ~8k/5k. Honestly, i'd re-valve them anyway considering that they have some miles on them, especially track miles. talk to someone who knows spring rates before you decide. You'll probably want to ditch the progressive springs in the rear. Great for daily driving, but not as good on track as a linear spring.
If you decide to swap out all together give Vorshlag a call. some AST 5200's would be mighty killer on an rx8. I think they make something for your Evo too Blackened. AST is king in the BMW world, especially since they bought Moton a couple years back. Not as expensive as highend Ohlins or JRZ's and very competitive. If i didn't have TC Kline DA's on my M3, i'd be shopping AST stuff.
I want to say that 10k/11k might need re-valved since the the standard v3 is ~8k/5k. Honestly, i'd re-valve them anyway considering that they have some miles on them, especially track miles. talk to someone who knows spring rates before you decide. You'll probably want to ditch the progressive springs in the rear. Great for daily driving, but not as good on track as a linear spring.
If you decide to swap out all together give Vorshlag a call. some AST 5200's would be mighty killer on an rx8. I think they make something for your Evo too Blackened.
AST is king in the BMW world, especially since they bought Moton a couple years back. Not as expensive as highend Ohlins or JRZ's and very competitive. If i didn't have TC Kline DA's on my M3, i'd be shopping AST stuff.
06-21-2013, 09:04 AM
#56
I definitely plan on revalving the V3s when I up the spring rates
After seeing how that feels I will see whether or not I need to upgrade to Ohlins, Fat Cats, etc
I'll be sure to check out the A6s as soon as these R6s give out...I'm sure they'll be fine for a few events especially while I'm still feeling out the new setup
Thanks for the kind words fuz
After seeing how that feels I will see whether or not I need to upgrade to Ohlins, Fat Cats, etc
I'll be sure to check out the A6s as soon as these R6s give out...I'm sure they'll be fine for a few events especially while I'm still feeling out the new setup
Thanks for the kind words fuz
06-21-2013, 09:26 AM
#57
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I think KW makes some really good stuff, but it's very much street/track instead of full on track. Really any shock will get beat up with a lot of track time. Nature of the beast and that's why the higher end stuff is easily rebuildable.
06-24-2013, 09:32 AM
#65
anybody know of any other vented wheel fenders?
I know of these...thanks for the link 9k
they are truly vented but, I see they have some fitment issues
maybe I'll just make my own...any input?
trying to reduce lift...specifically in the front and rear wheel wells
car gets really floaty after ~115mph
I know of these...thanks for the link 9k
they are truly vented but, I see they have some fitment issues
maybe I'll just make my own...any input?
trying to reduce lift...specifically in the front and rear wheel wells
car gets really floaty after ~115mph
06-25-2013, 08:21 AM
#70
played around with some piping yesterday for the exhaust
sounds like it's going to be WAY too loud without the catback mufflers
no way I'll pass the dB level for track with a straight pipe
at least a resonator will have to be added
sounds like it's going to be WAY too loud without the catback mufflers
no way I'll pass the dB level for track with a straight pipe
at least a resonator will have to be added
06-25-2013, 09:15 AM
#71
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make your own with some cheap fenders from a part out and generic rivet in vents. You'll have to run without fender liners to be functional either way. The accolade fenders are ugly and over priced. You can have ugly by DIY for way cheaper. lol
PM bse's goofy ***. He had some interesting ideas on the subject. Specifically what i mentioned for the front, and some ideas to vent the rear.
look into a real splitter that runs all the way back to the engine cradle and replaces the under tray. It will likely need to be custom made, and also look into a custom rear diffuser. Both can be made out of decent thickness ABS sheet, aluminum sheet, or that alumi-lite or whatever it's called
PM bse's goofy ***. He had some interesting ideas on the subject. Specifically what i mentioned for the front, and some ideas to vent the rear.
look into a real splitter that runs all the way back to the engine cradle and replaces the under tray. It will likely need to be custom made, and also look into a custom rear diffuser. Both can be made out of decent thickness ABS sheet, aluminum sheet, or that alumi-lite or whatever it's called
Last edited by fuztupnz; 06-25-2013 at 09:20 AM.
06-25-2013, 09:38 AM
#72
make your own with some cheap fenders from a part out and generic rivet in vents. You'll have to run without fender liners to be functional either way. The accolade fenders are ugly and over priced. You can have ugly by DIY for way cheaper. lol
PM bse's goofy ***. He had some interesting ideas on the subject. Specifically what i mentioned for the front, and some ideas to vent the rear.
look into a real splitter that runs all the way back to the engine cradle and replaces the under tray. It will likely need to be custom made, and also look into a custom rear diffuser. Both can be made out of decent thickness ABS sheet, aluminum sheet, or that alumi-lite or whatever it's called
PM bse's goofy ***. He had some interesting ideas on the subject. Specifically what i mentioned for the front, and some ideas to vent the rear.
look into a real splitter that runs all the way back to the engine cradle and replaces the under tray. It will likely need to be custom made, and also look into a custom rear diffuser. Both can be made out of decent thickness ABS sheet, aluminum sheet, or that alumi-lite or whatever it's called
yea bse sent me the info for the rear wheel wells...I will probably just vent it to the trunk instead of through the rear bumper though
the splitter is an undertray replacement made from reynobond (layers of aluminum and plastic)
stronger and lighter than sheet metal/aluminum
06-25-2013, 10:50 AM
#74
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that's what I'll end up doing probably...putting generic vents in the stock fenders
yea bse sent me the info for the rear wheel wells...I will probably just vent it to the trunk instead of through the rear bumper though
the splitter is an undertray replacement made from reynobond (layers of aluminum and plastic)
stronger and lighter than sheet metal/aluminum
yea bse sent me the info for the rear wheel wells...I will probably just vent it to the trunk instead of through the rear bumper though
the splitter is an undertray replacement made from reynobond (layers of aluminum and plastic)
stronger and lighter than sheet metal/aluminum
