Mazurfer

Of course there was. https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...happy+birthday We missed you !

Dogpound48

Well I spent the better part of the weekend working on the install and made pretty good progress. We did run into some issues with what was supplied but I hopefully can have everything resolved Monday. I'll post some pics on Monday. I'll also have a few questions once I can find my notes.

shinka213

great!!

post questions...we will definitely try to assist...

James429

Shinka, Shinka, Shinka...

What in the f&*% is with that picture in your post?

I told you to delete ALL of my photos baby!!!

Guess you forgot that one. It's a good thing I still had my tan then.

James.

PS - New purchase soon. I need new wheels so I'm thinking of the Enkei RPF1s 18x9.5. What do ya' think??? Miss ya'll...I'm up here in the Poconos. It's cold, snowy (but the 8 is friggin' awesome in the snow with these tires) and I miss Southern California so much...

Dogpound48

I have a quick question. Can anybody help me pull the pin out of the throttle body connector? We have to reroute 1 wire through the main bundle and can't get it out of the connector.

thanks

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

The throttle body connector has a plate in the pin side that comes out--if i remember correctly it is white. Once that plate is removed then the pins release in the usual way. Learn a lot doing this dont ya?
olddragger

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

I think he is talking about removing the wire from the harness, not the TB plug, itself.

Dogpound48

I popped the white "plate" out and the pins still didn't want to release. The white piece didn't come completely off just released. One wire from the Throttle Body connector needs to be routed around to allow me to keep all of them bundled.

Dogpound48

More than I care for. Keep running into issues with missing components and other things that slow everything down.

Phil's 8

iTrader: (3)

yup..... Ray, care to comment

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

The pins are inserted into the connector from the harness side with a one-way locking tab. A small, toothpick-like, tool is used to release the tab so the wire can be pulled back out of the connector. The Weatherpak o-ring that surrounds the wire must be pulled back, first. A little silicone spray may help to slide the o-ring back a few inches and you can start feeling around for the lock-tab. Hard to see, so it is a "feel" thing.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

I used a very small srewdriver (made for tightening eyeglasses) that worked great for this--and yep you are correct it is a feel thing.
Dog--what parts are missing? I know I was VERY careful in doing the harness etc rerouting and in trying to get the vacuum hoses routed correctly.
A couple of hints
1- reroute the oil filter--you will be glad you did. You dont HAVE too, but it is better.
2- make sure you have a screen on the maf pipe---it needs a smooth flow now -more than ever.
3- make sure your fuel system is good---no pressure issues. our fuel pump has been known to deteriorate.
4- Detoniation in the rotary sounds like a vibration/aluminum can crushing--it is not like a recip!
5- pull the room fuse every day or after a LONG trip.
6- watch the a/f's
7 --make sure the alternator wire is secured well away from the pulley's.
8- mount the coils as LOW as possible to give as much clearance as you can to the maf pipe.
9- I was able to redo the hose configuation of the a/w intercoolers to make room for the RB cold air scoop thing--if you have one--look at it and do it. the engine is now reading the iat's from the maf and cool air to it is good.
Holler out with any questions you may have.
olddragger

tdiddy

What are you using for a screen?

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

I use a piece of standard window screen.

tdiddy

I was thinking of using a nylon window screen just in case it were to get sucked into the turbo. Plus it should be easier to work with. That looks nice though! Thats not the new Pettit MAF tube is it? If not, are you supposed to be getting the new one?

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

The metal screen sits very tight and does not flex like a nylon one.

It is a loaner from Cam. I talked to Cam last week and I'm going to stop over his shop in April and I'll swap it for the new one.

shinka213

ive got a metal screen like juans...got the new maf tube...havent had time to swap it out...

we are in the middle of a snow storm...

tiddy...i did post pics somewhere..let me know if you wanna take a peep

shinka213

https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...postcount=1237

tdiddy

Good point. Never thought about that. Looks like another trip to the hardware store.

Thanks. I have seen it before. It looks very nice.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Huh? Why would you need to do that?

tdiddy

I thought it but didn't ask it... My guess would be because the tune only addresses open loop and the tuning software has no means to change the transition between open and closed loop.

Moon Assad

Na, dont have to pull the fuse everyday. The ECU tunes to optimum in a few drive cycles, holds ok for a few days but trims after few more days. The new flash has rectified that issue. Crawl, step, run. Id say it takes from 250 to 500 miles to enter the to lean zone, if it does, wich most of the 04s wont trim into the zone.

Moon Assad

Also, dont hold me to if its the rite size but I think it is, you have a screen in your stock airbox with a steel liner, see how it fits in the housing to filter, im pretty sure its the exact size and cant get sucked in.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Its a flash, right? You can address open and closed loop with a flash. Just change the lambda targets and you are done.

Huh? LTFT/STFT are designed to compensate for variations in the injector tolerances, not change the tune.
If the trims are changing the target values, then you need to go in and change the target values.
There is no reason for the fuel trims to change the base tune unless it was wrong to begin with.

Moon Assad

Hehe, I new id see ya, I still have more miles on one motor biatch, enough said.