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Old 10-19-2009, 07:48 PM
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lol--i just painted the oem tank black and it blended in so much better.
would like to have a better battery cover--i aint a gonna move it
Maybe a battery cover that includes covering the coolant tank?
OD
Old 10-20-2009, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Rote8
Mine hasn't cracked, I am in Florida.
Daily driver in over 90 degree heat.


Mine has cracked under the cap
so with pression, it always empty itself !

the water engine temps is always between 230F° & 212°F

I wan't wait to instal my vented hood !
Old 10-20-2009, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by chiketkd
Question from someone not in the know -- why are the engine coolant reservoirs cracking with the Pettit s/c kit?
My engine coolant tank became brittle and is chipping off at the neck it did not crack. I am making a new one from s/s to fit into the same area as the factory tank.

My charge tank (after cooler tank) did crack. I attribute it to a poor quality plastic. It also seemed a little small so when Denny came up with the new Moroso tank I jumped on board.

I personally have not tried a vented hood but others out here in the desert tell me it does not work as you would hope. I guess when the air temp is 117 degrees + and the humidity is 6% nothing will help.

Last edited by Phil's 8; 10-20-2009 at 07:36 AM.
Old 10-20-2009, 08:04 AM
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I aggree Phil, when your in an environment like you are in all the air is hot, no matter wether your venting it or not,,,
Old 10-20-2009, 08:56 AM
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yea I can only imagine about that type heat.
JDM dude--your coolant is always between 212 and 230?
Too hot--put secondary radiator on it.
OD
Old 10-20-2009, 09:12 AM
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I wonder why you guys don't just put E85 in there since it burns cooler
Old 10-20-2009, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Phil's 8
My engine coolant tank became brittle and is chipping off at the neck it did not crack. I am making a new one from s/s to fit into the same area as the factory tank.

My charge tank (after cooler tank) did crack. I attribute it to a poor quality plastic. It also seemed a little small so when Denny came up with the new Moroso tank I jumped on board.

I personally have not tried a vented hood but others out here in the desert tell me it does not work as you would hope. I guess when the air temp is 117 degrees + and the humidity is 6% nothing will help.
You need a water nozzle to spray over the radiator.


And a trailer hitch for the water tank to tow behind you....
Old 10-20-2009, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by chiketkd
Any plans to re-dyno your car Juan? IIRC, you hit 9.6psi on the dyno when you made 330wp. Any idea of what she'll make at 11 or 12 psi?
The 330 whp was with the bigger pulley (11/13) psi. The only difference from then and now are the injectors. I'm now running the 2009 injectors. I'm waiting for Jan or Feb to replicate the dyno (same location) and determine if the better spray pattern of the 2009 injectors did in fact increased my whp.
Old 10-20-2009, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by olddragger
yep! it was 40F on the way to work this a.m. The car was a little frisky.

Ya mean we arent holding 11 lbs of boost? At what rpm was the 9.6?
Good to hear from ya Juan. How is it Bro?
You really need to upgrade your motor mounts to enjoy the snap the cold weather brings
OD
I'm ok with the OEM mounts since I have an engine torque damper.
Old 10-21-2009, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Rote8
You need a water nozzle to spray over the radiator.


And a trailer hitch for the water tank to tow behind you....
Surprisingly the meth spray is helping keep the temps down. Summer has ended here and we are down to 90 degree days so I will have to wait until next year to see how much.

Originally Posted by olddragger
yea I can only imagine about that type heat.
JDM dude--your coolant is always between 212 and 230?
Too hot--put secondary radiator on it.
OD
I am getting a cooling mod from Cam at Pettit, it has some type of radiator with it. I tried a second radiator up front and it made things worse so I am hoping this Pettit cooling mod will help.
Old 10-21-2009, 09:18 AM
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A secondary up front made it worse? I dont understand that Phil? Can you please give me some details on the install and set up? Such as:
1- Was the radiator feed from the hose going to the heater and then back to the return heater hose on the theromstat housing?
2-Was the heater hose restrictor removed?
3- was it mounted on the bumper support, flush with the back edge and touching with metal hangers (makes it act kinda like a heat sink)?
4- open fin type radiator?
5- theromstat drilled (have to keep SOME primary flow going) with bypass intact?
Sorry for all the questions--I am just really puzzled?
Cams set up is the same concept except his is mounted in the belly pan with a scoop.
Was the secondary heater actually making the car run hotter?

Temps have fallen in Ga--highs in the 70's and lows around 40 and I had to disconnect mine to get the temps past 150F in normal driving.
Maybe I am a crazy old man?
OD
Old 10-21-2009, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by olddragger
yea I can only imagine about that type heat.
JDM dude--your coolant is always between 212 and 230?
Too hot--put secondary radiator on it.
OD
I ordered the pettit racing's
in the caribbean island, humidity is near 75% ... so I hope the hood may help (at least a bit) !

see the pict of the engine coolant tank I ordered (Apexi)...I'll try to fix it somewhere else..can't wait to receive it !
Attached Thumbnails Pettit Super Charger Owners-img_0823_resize.jpg   Pettit Super Charger Owners-img_0820_resize.jpg  
Old 10-21-2009, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by olddragger
A secondary up front made it worse? I dont understand that Phil? Can you please give me some details on the install and set up? Such as:
1- Was the radiator feed from the hose going to the heater and then back to the return heater hose on the theromstat housing? Yes
2-Was the heater hose restrictor removed? Was not aware the a/t has one
3- was it mounted on the bumper support, flush with the back edge and touching with metal hangers (makes it act kinda like a heat sink)? not mounted there. It did block part of stock rad and part of charge cooler because of location.
4- open fin type radiator? Yes
5- theromstat drilled (have to keep SOME primary flow going) with bypass intact? Theremostat was not drilled.
Sorry for all the questions--I am just really puzzled?
Cams set up is the same concept except his is mounted in the belly pan with a scoop.
Was the secondary heater actually making the car run hotter? Could not get hotter....... but got hotter sooner.
Temps have fallen in Ga--highs in the 70's and lows around 40 and I had to disconnect mine to get the temps past 150F in normal driving.
Maybe I am a crazy old man?
OD
I will look at Cam's set up and see if I can control it with a valve for winter as it does get cold here (in the low 60s). I would love to get it in 150 - 180 temp range and have it stay there. Your in the 40s already? Damm I thought Georgia was more temperate.
Old 10-21-2009, 06:32 PM
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It is weird here in NC as well. Some days (like today) it will be 40 in the morning and heat up above 70 in the afternoon. It feels more like Iraq in the fall with the fluctuation in temperature.
Old 10-21-2009, 06:32 PM
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On that note, I wish my car was running right now cause it sure would love these temps.
Old 10-21-2009, 09:13 PM
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Phil
1- you have a heater hose restricter--has to be removed for proper flow--its a brass plug thing in the return heater hose--you dont need it and it REALLY slows down the coolant. I think by almost 50%
2- location is important--mounting as i did made sure that there is great airflow--the front bumper support also acts like a heat sink of sorts. It may cause the intercooler to run a little warmer but not much and the w/m controls a lot of that as it should with us. it will not affect the a/c or primary radiator (at least it didnt affect mine) as there is a LOT of air flowing around that area
3- the thermostat has to be drilled (i think i did a 1/16 hole?) to insure primary flow is occurring at all times. Several reasons for this. i will list what I think if you like.

Cams set up is basically the same as mine except his is in the bellypan with a scoop---so the restricter will still need to be removed and i strongly suggest drilling the T.
Keep us posted and let me know your results if you can?
Stay cool out there dude!
OD
Old 10-21-2009, 09:29 PM
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you'll like how simple Cams layout is Phil, I just hope it works for ya, on a typical 80-90degree day I saw consistant temps 12-16 degrees cooler, averaging 175-185 degrees,,,
I talked to Cam about it actually working too well now that ambient temps have dropped, he suggested to just block the ram air scoop,,,
Just as a refresher hers what we're talking about,,,



Old 10-22-2009, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by olddragger
Phil
1- you have a heater hose restricter--has to be removed for proper flow--its a brass plug thing in the return heater hose--you dont need it and it REALLY slows down the coolant. I think by almost 50%
OD
Hi !
What looks like this restricter ?
I think it is one of my many heating problems !!
Old 10-22-2009, 07:44 AM
  #6344  
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Originally Posted by JMKuco
Hi !
What looks like this restricter ?
I think it is one of my many heating problems !!
You know almost every hose and vacuum line in my 8 has been converted to silicone. I do not remember any restricter. I looked last night and can not see evidence of it (but I don't really know what it looks like). Can you get a pix of its location?

I run a lower temp thermostat (Mazmart) and have been cautioned against drilling it.

That Pettit cooling system looks good. I hope it does not hang down any lower that stock cuz I'm pretty low already. Cam shipped it Tuesday so maybe I'll see it tomorrow.
Old 10-22-2009, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Phil's 8

That Pettit cooling system looks good. I hope it does not hang down any lower that stock cuz I'm pretty low already. Cam shipped it Tuesday so maybe I'll see it tomorrow.
Nope, not at all,,,
Old 10-22-2009, 09:34 AM
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jmk--its a brass plug in the return heater hose close to the thermostat housing--it is inside the hose.
Phile if you have replaced the hose with silicone then you are good to go.
thermostat needs drilling to stabilize warm up temps. a non thermostatically controlled seconary radiator will cause the warm up to be a little slower. while this is happening the engine is only getting coolant from the bypass and second rad. when the therm cracks the "cooler" coolant in the primary rad will hit the engine cause a rapid cooling until it balances out. drill the t fix this for me and I think it helps with having constant temps after ther theromstat starts opening.
OD
Old 10-23-2009, 07:17 AM
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thanks, I'll check !
but as I change many of the hose, maybe I already delete this problem !
Old 10-23-2009, 08:44 AM
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rotr8--i bet you didnt drill your thermostat either?---80F I am at 160-170 on open road. stop and go i am 170 or so.
I think the car runs better at 180-190 and I may soon have to bypass my 2nd. Blocking the through airflow didnt work for me.
I am thinking about replacing my sensor to a different spot. Currently I have the RB adaptor thingy. I run my heater hose (outlet from the engine is on the drivers side) UNDER my car--not on top like oem---and I may be getting a cooling affect from the air flowing pass that long hose? I may mount it close to the factory one----thoughts?
OD
Old 10-23-2009, 10:45 AM
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The ideal operating temps are 180-190, and no havent drilled the thermostat,
the temps I stated before are an average of sitting, slow city driving and highway, averaged from logging,,,
Old 10-23-2009, 12:23 PM
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ok thanks.
I have too many projects---sigh
going to increase oil pressures?
get the fram hp2 oil filter
coil overs
reinstall oil pressure gauge--damn!
going to have to get an ash tray pod for more dang gauges
trying to think of a better belt tension piece--think we have potential for more belt wrap and may not need a larger belt?
OD


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