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Just wanted to show off my install. Runs great! I haven't brought it to a real tuner yet but I did a pretty descent job for now. I added a toggle button by the shifter so I can run it like Mad Max. If I leave it on I have the SC clutch set to come on at 30% throttle. Also added a bypass solenoid powered by co2 to hold open the bypass/boost control when the SC is off. Please feel free to comment or ask me questions. I included the maps I'm using (intercepts on the injectors and coils).
Just installed this Blitz supercharger. Got it used from Japan for $1500 but didn't have computer or some or the brackets. I setup an E-Manage piggyback and some other upgrades. Primary Fuel Map Secondary and Primary 2 Fuel Map Leading Ignition Map Trailing Ignition Map
Cool build, I've never see that kit before (but my focus was nearly 100% on turbo). I'll double down on Dannobre's E-manage comment, keep an eye on it, and when you find yourself with the budget I'd recommend swapping to the Adaptronic stand alone PNP ECU. Guys have been tossing E-Manage in the dumpster since before I went FI back in 2010 even.
Happy Driving!
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 03-13-2020 at 09:56 AM.
Thanks guys, I was concerned about the E-Manage and tried to find a way to put the oem ecu into open loop by disconnecting the o2 or fooling the throttle position but had no luck with this. I have been keeping an eye on the trims and have an afr gauge in the car along with the boost controller that I'm looking at. I've been driving it for a week now and don't see it changing yet but I drive it a lot with the sc off and the bypass open so the oem ecu keeps the trims normal and then I use the madmax toggle in the car like a nitro boost to activate the supercharger whenever I need (for speed) it. I have definitely been looking at the Adaptronic standalone and will probably upgrade to it. I might just drive it like this for the summer and then I need to take the sc off for smog in October and may do another rebuild then. My current rebuild already has 40K on it. I replaced the housings and apex seals but didn't machine the steals or replace the oil seal steals or side seals so I'm hoping the aluminums are good when I do the next rebuild... Doesn't burn a drop of oil from the sump with the sohn mod and I also have VersaTuner installed and have the oil map increased for the 2-stroke oil. I did a lot of the mods and had the E-Manage installed before putting the sc in so that I could have it at stage zero before the major upgrade I just did.
I know I could use versatuner but I couldn't think of a clean way to use the MAP sensor and triggering the SC clutch and it might be tricky with it not being on all of the time. I also want to keep it a bit of a sleeper on the road too and I'm in a state that would frown on this mod.
Been getting too much time at home with the corona crap so I've been tuning the 8 and adding more stuff...
The latest mod...I put an air solenoid and tank under the hood to hold the wastegate open on the supercharger and added a Mad Max button on the shifter (used a cheap shift *** for now). I can still lock the SC on or use the MM button for boost on demand. Added an arduino and programmed it to handle this misc stuff and keep track of the air tank pressure... Shot of the air tank, solenoid, keg regulator and the arduino. Boost controller, AFR gauge and the SC on-demand buttons.
...The latest mod...I put an air solenoid and tank under the hood to hold the wastegate open on the supercharger and added a Mad Max button on the shifter (used a cheap shift *** for now). I can still lock the SC on or use the MM button for boost on demand. Added an arduino and programmed it to handle this misc stuff and keep track of the air tank pressure....
Clever...
but why would you have a SC installed and NOT want to use it? And I get you may not need /want full boost all the time, and may want to ease engine load...; but why not just govern load via throttle?
but why would you have a SC installed and NOT want to use it? And I get you may not need /want full boost all the time, and may want to ease engine load...; but why not just govern load via throttle?
I hear what you're saying and the SC power is a lot of fun but with this kit it's designed with a clutch on the compressor and comes on at 30% throttle. The power is instant, not like a turbo, and gives a good kick. This is not good in turns (which reminds me, I need to make a new strut tower brace) because it breaks the tires free to easy. One of the buttons I have next to the shifter locks it into full SC mode and turns on at 30% throttle, if I turn this off, bypass mode, it still lets the compressor turn on at 30% but leaves the bypass open so it doesn't get boost but also there is no intake obstruction and it runs like a normally screaming NA. I can then just hit the shift button and get instant boost, kind of acts like NOS. I also think the kit from Blitz was flawed in the sense that they had the bypass shut, as it is only controlled by the boost controller, and intake for the engine has to go through the compressor so it actually makes the compressor freewheel just from the intake air while it's idling and driving under 30% throttle. Adding the solenoid and air controller to keep the bypass open while the compressor is off lets the intake air go through the bypass while the compressor isn't being powered and then hands off control to the boost controller when the compressor turns on, in full SC mode. I really like how it works now, I get the fun great handling screaming NA car we all love and the extra power when I want it (which is usually all of the time). I'm also getting better gas mileage now then I used to. Was at 14 to 15 now I get 16 or better. Also with this SC kit it starts and idles normally and is a real sleeper.
I hear what you're saying and the SC power is a lot of fun but with this kit it's designed with a clutch on the compressor and comes on at 30% throttle. The power is instant, not like a turbo, and gives a good kick. This is not good in turns (which reminds me, I need to make a new strut tower brace) because it breaks the tires free to easy. One of the buttons I have next to the shifter locks it into full SC mode and turns on at 30% throttle, if I turn this off, bypass mode, it still lets the compressor turn on at 30% but leaves the bypass open so it doesn't get boost but also there is no intake obstruction and it runs like a normally screaming NA. I can then just hit the shift button and get instant boost, kind of acts like NOS. I also think the kit from Blitz was flawed in the sense that they had the bypass shut, as it is only controlled by the boost controller, and intake for the engine has to go through the compressor so it actually makes the compressor freewheel just from the intake air while it's idling and driving under 30% throttle. Adding the solenoid and air controller to keep the bypass open while the compressor is off lets the intake air go through the bypass while the compressor isn't being powered and then hands off control to the boost controller when the compressor turns on, in full SC mode. I really like how it works now, I get the fun great handling screaming NA car we all love and the extra power when I want it (which is usually all of the time). I'm also getting better gas mileage now then I used to. Was at 14 to 15 now I get 16 or better. Also with this SC kit it starts and idles normally and is a real sleeper.
Ah... understood. The compressor clutch engagement at 30% w/b an issue...omg in the rain...
Kudos for the creative work around solutions to get the best out of the kit and enjoy the car.
Is there no way to reduce the compressor clutch activation point to a % which engages power & torque more smoothly?
...b/c as you said desire to have the "extra power"...at least at the ready...is nearly all the time.
Is there no way to reduce the compressor clutch activation point to a % which engages power & torque more smoothly?
The kit I bought was used and not complete. I got it off ebay from someone in Japan. The Blitz site had the manual but it was all in Japanese and the pdf conversion to english was not the greatest. I needed to find or make all of the missing parts, the computer that came with it was not from the original kit so I threw it out and ended up getting a Greedy E-Manage. So I tried to set everything up as best as I could based on the original design of this kit and a few extras I thought would help, like adding a map sensor to base the fuel and ignition maps off of instead of the maf. I setup an aux output map in e-manage to trigger the compressor clutch at 30% and did do a little change at lower rpm to turn on at a little higher throttle.
I recently found a production car, the Toyota MR2, that uses a clutch SC which help to confirm my ideas of using the bypass open to help when the compressor is off. 86-89 MR2 Supercharged edition MR2s. They say they are using the manifold pressure to turn on the SC and I could do that, look at the attached picture of my aux map, but I'm thinking it may setup a loop that won't turn off the SC once it turns on, plus I already have it tuned pretty good and really don't like the tuning part of this as it's kind of nerve racking when you run lean and start getting knock.
Anyway, I'm including a few more pics of my build experience for your viewing pleasure.
Greedy map the turns on the compressor at ~30%
Kit I bought off ebay for $1600 shipped directly from Japan. Took 2 months to get here.
Full kit from Blitz. Cost $8k or $9k new back in '04.
Making my own wiring harness.
What a pain!
...but worth it in the end. Got the computer and some other mods in the car and running, stage zero, before adding the SC.
The kit I bought was used and not complete. I got it off ebay from someone in Japan. The Blitz site had the manual but it was all in Japanese and the pdf conversion to english was not the greatest. I needed to find or make all of the missing parts, the computer that came with it was not from the original kit so I threw it out and ended up getting a Greedy E-Manage. So I tried to set everything up as best as I could based on the original design of this kit and a few extras I thought would help, like adding a map sensor to base the fuel and ignition maps off of instead of the maf. I setup an aux output map in e-manage to trigger the compressor clutch at 30% and did do a little change at lower rpm to turn on at a little higher throttle.
I recently found a production car, the Toyota MR2, that uses a clutch SC which help to confirm my ideas of using the bypass open to help when the compressor is off. 86-89 MR2 Supercharged edition MR2s. They say they are using the manifold pressure to turn on the SC and I could do that, look at the attached picture of my aux map, but I'm thinking it may setup a loop that won't turn off the SC once it turns on, plus I already have it tuned pretty good and really don't like the tuning part of this as it's kind of nerve racking when you run lean and start getting knock.
Anyway, I'm including a few more pics of my build experience for your viewing pleasure...
Gearsoft,
Great work, man! That is quite a feat...sourcing a used kit from Japan at <20% cost + shipping, customs, etc....w/out installation manual in your own language. And the harness wiring work...very nice. Just wiring my gauges gave me the pita feeling. Well done.
Well given what you had to work w/ you've done an awesome job, ...but I have to think that transitioning to MAP control of the SC, which is what the combustion chamber actually "sees", would have to provide better performance than throttle % tuning control. Comparing it to the turbo system design w/ which I'm familiar...exhaust is the turbine motive force, in your case its the pulley. We use a WG to bypass exhaust (motive force) around the turbine to govern the high end. IFF your SC clutch is S/W controlled... perhaps you could tune / govern your SC clutch in the same way: i.e. rather than engage the SC on the front end..., transition to MAP control..., let the SC spin up freely...progressively..., then tune the clutch to govern against over-boost on the high end.
transition to MAP control..., let the SC spin up freely...progressively..., then tune the clutch to govern against over-boost on the high end.
Thanks jcbrx8! Really appreciate the positive encouragement. This is definitely a work in-progress and I'm sure I'll make more changes. One will most likely be to upgrade to an Adaptec standalone ECU and dump the e-manage, although the e-manage is doing a pretty good job and not un-tuning itself by fighting with the main rx8 ecu, I think since the main ECU doesn't see AFRs low all of the time since the SC isn't always on, that it keeps the fuel trims normal.
Originally Posted by jcbrx8
How much boost and HP is the kit generating?
This kit was designed to make 0.37 to 0.42hkPa (5.4 to 6.1 psi) and seams to do a good job at that. I'm not sure the HP gain but I am planning to dyno it when the pandemic is over. Just a guess I would say maybe 30 to 40 HP. I may be way off but just a guess.
I did rebuild this motor almost 3 years ago with new aluminums and apex seals. Some minor porting and other mods too. Has about 35k on the rebuild and still runs well. I'm planning to pull it again sometime, as we all need to plan owning these beast, and I'll lap the steals and have them re-nitrided by chipsmotorsports. Also I'll buy the new side and oil seal hard parts. maybe even have the rotors balanced.
More pics! My fresh rebuild, June of 2017 ...more rebuilding Ready to go! it's really a Ogura TX12 compressor... ...just something fun, found these door emblem projectors on ebay and installed in both doors
Wow, that Blitz setup is really something! I love to see different SC setups, but most have died off at this point (Blitz, Knight Sport, Hymee, and really even Pettit by now). Very neat and exotic, I love it! I wish someone in the US would simply scan this into some CNC machinery software and replicate the major pieces, it seems like a great little setup!
So I've had some belt issues lately, snapping my third belt today (the first one snapped back in December and a piece of the goddamn thing got wrapped around my eccentric shaft behind the main pulley and sliced open my front main seal causing oil to constantly squirt out of the front of the engine and coat everything with oil from the pulleys slinging it everywhere), so that was an expensive bitch and a half to get fixed - I got it repaired by by the resident Rotary Expert at Aero Automotive here in SoCal though, who I have to say did a great job at least). Finally figured out that it's because my tensioner pulley bracket was bent - likely from the previous owner having to torque down the tensioner to prevent belt slippage because they only had the stock Pettit pulley and not the wider 6-rib setup like I do now, which was causing the belt to constantly slide towards the forward edge of the pulley and rub against the pulley edge "wall", which was evidenced by the front-facing side of the belt always being frayed/mangled and stretched when they would fail. So, I got a long crowbar and wrapped it in cloth so as not to scratch anything, then leveraged it against the front/side of the compressor with the tip behind the back of the pulley-bracket, and managed to carefully bend it forward a few millimetres, and now the belt (I have multiple belts in my garage now because I ordered several on Amazon haha) is just about centered on the pulley and no longer forward or touching the edge of the pulley - you can see from the new contact patch/stripe on the pulley in the picture after a test drive. Sorry for the engine bay being so damned filthy right now - but fingers crossed, no more snapped belts!
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In other developments, I've been wondering for awhile why they ran the coolant loop return hose directly over the super-hot engine block and right between the super-hot alternator and compressor. I saw a picture online of a Pettit setup with the hose routed in a longer loop around the back and side of the engine bay, avoiding all the super hot stuff in the center altogether - and incidentally I had a bunch of hose left over from my install, so I mimicked that setup hoping to take a few extra degrees of heat out of the coolant loop. Also, unrelated, I painted my brake booster reservoir black with a yellow cap to match my windshield wiper fluid reservoir just to have a sense of symmetry.
Seeing what you guys think of this potential mod for my car. I found where someone installed a PWR Liquid to Air Barrel Intercooler by cutting the cast aluminum on the same kit I have and extending and welding it on the other side to get the intercooler to fit. My kit didn't come with an intercooler but I don't think it really matters too much just driving on the street and not having the SC on all the time since it's on a clutch. But I am thinking about starting to track my car over at laguna seca raceway track that's close to where I live and the SC may start to add too much heat and kill the FI potential (and the motor)
Not my car just a picture I found where someone installed a PWR Liquid to Air Barrel Intercooler on the same kit I have.
This is my SC setup currently. Getting pretty crowded under the hood, I may need to rethink this layout a little especially if I do an intercooler install like the one above.
Seeing what you guys think of this potential mod for my car. I found where someone installed a PWR Liquid to Air Barrel Intercooler by cutting the cast aluminum on the same kit I have and extending and welding it on the other side to get the intercooler to fit. My kit didn't come with an intercooler but I don't think it really matters too much just driving on the street and not having the SC on all the time since it's on a clutch. But I am thinking about starting to track my car over at laguna seca raceway track that's close to where I live and the SC may start to add too much heat and kill the FI potential (and the motor)
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Gearsoft,
Cooling the charge is a matter of protection and power. I wouldn't run a kit w/ out it. The density of air has an inverse relationship to temp.... as temp is reduced, density increases, and other things being equal...a denser charge generates more power. So, charge cooling is good mitigation against engine killing detonation , and can sufficiently reduce IAT enough to increase HP by 10-15%.
Having gone thru the trouble of installing FI, turbo or SC, on my car, I would not run it w/out charge cooling of some sort, e.g. IC, or W/M. The more... the better.
- first to mitigate against the risk of detonation
- second to optimize the performance of the kit. For ex. if ~260 HP feels good, imagine ~300 HP.
Gearsoft,
Cooling the charge is a matter of protection and power. I wouldn't run a kit w/ out it. The density of air has an inverse relationship to temp.... as temp is reduced, density increases, and other things being equal...a denser charge generates more power. So, charge cooling is good mitigation against engine killing detonation , and can sufficiently reduce IAT enough to increase HP by 10-15%.
Having gone thru the trouble of installing FI, turbo or SC, on my car, I would not run it w/out charge cooling of some sort, e.g. IC, or W/M. The more... the better.
- first to mitigate against the risk of detonation
- second to optimize the performance of the kit. For ex. if ~260 HP feels good, imagine ~300 HP.
Really appreciate the feedback jcbrx8! So I'm thinking I'll start by adding W/M and put off the IC for later this year when I have to pull the SC off to get the 2 year smog done. Got any suggestions for a kit ? I'm looking at a Snow Water/Meth injection system, maybe a stage 1 to start with. Also, I'm reading that the injector needs to go on the boost side of the compressor. Looking at my SC kit I may just drill and tap into the SC output manifold and put the injector there or there is already a plugged nipple in that same manifold that I can just use the already tapped hole.
inject W/M here?
Let me know what you think or anyone else how wants to chime in.
something is better than nothing I suppose, but that barrel cooler seems a bit smallish to have much effect.
E85 fuel would likely be much more effective for engine protection and performance than that little thing, but a 35% fuel economy drop is quite a wallop when you’re lucky to get 15 mpg on gasoline At least it’s cheap if you have access to it.
I'm not going to run water/meth. There's been a few posts in this thread (good luck finding them but I read the whole damn thing) about the issue of water not fully evaporating in the charge and then when you turn the engine off, the water sits in the engine and can cause it to rust (a little bit, but it'll add up). You could add a switch to turn off the water injection manually, so a few miles from home you can turn it off and let any residual moisture clear out. But then you're running part time with no water, so you might as well just not run it at all.
I can't tell you I don't have any experience with this, but it makes sense to me and it worries me, so I'd rather not have it and just keep to an 8psi pulley and stay safe. Also, I hate putting holes in things and regretting it later and not being able to fix it.
The injection location sounds correct, but have no experience w/the kits. I concur w/Team E85 is another great alternative. I run an IC (cooling) and E85 mix, E30, (protection). Investigate all your options.
Also curious... what gauges do you have...what are you monitoring?
The injection location sounds correct, but have no experience w/the kits. I concur w/Team E85 is another great alternative. I run an IC (cooling) and E85 mix, E30, (protection). Investigate all your options.
Also curious... what gauges do you have...what are you monitoring?
E85 is not really an option for me since the nearest location is about 60 miles away.
For monitoring I have an afr meter connected to my Innovate Motorsports LC-2 and a Blitz boost controller. Been also using Torque to watch water and cat temps, running a super cat, and watching fuel trims to make sure the ecu isn't de-tuning the e-manage piggyback. Got to reset the ecu some times with the 20 pedal pump if the trims start moving up, but most of the time trims are good.
Any suggestions for other vitals I should be monitoring?
E85 is not really an option for me since the nearest location is about 60 miles away.
For monitoring I have an afr meter connected to my Innovate Motorsports LC-2 and a Blitz boost controller. Been also using Torque to watch water and cat temps, running a super cat, and watching fuel trims to make sure the ecu isn't de-tuning the e-manage piggyback. Got to reset the ecu some times with the 20 pedal pump if the trims start moving up, but most of the time trims are good.
Any suggestions for other vitals I should be monitoring?
In addition to afr, and boost...I run and recommend coolant, intake air, and oil temps w alarms a must. I check stft, ltft, and cat temp back at the house.
and watching fuel trims to make sure the ecu isn't de-tuning the e-manage piggyback. Got to reset the ecu some times with the 20 pedal pump if the trims start moving up, but most of the time trims are good.
You can solve this simply by adjusting the fueling at idle and cruise so it holds close to 14.7 without any trim.
03-13-2020, 12:10 AM
Well done. 
The more... the better.
