LoL understand. But in the end you will have a very unique car.
I will keep you posted.
OD

 

yeah, yeah, yeah

 

^ +1

 

lol
https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1309096617
https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1309096632
https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1309096632

maybe these will hold yall

 

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1309097064

i still have a lot of tidy up work to be done.

 

i have decided to go a different than oem injector route and I am waiting for witchhunters to finish their work on them and get them to me.
my ltft is 0.7
With my present tune and on a 98F day with just 60% humidity i have pulled over 300gram/sec with partial throttle only in second gear at 7K. Just enough to get the apv's kicked in.
a/f's only 11.5.
Hardest engine I have ever had to keep cool. I have actually gone to 205F at the top radiator hose on one of our 100F days while in traffic. The a/c kicks the coolant up about 10degres until the fans kick in.
My high speed fan came on once and I think it blew cobwebs out
Whatever Cam did it sure is getting the heat out of the inside of the engine

I cannot tell that the rx7 apex seals are in it--vacuum is very good (19)

 

How did you cut the grill out? In the past the SARX guys have used a big drill bit and drilled between the "mesh". It was alot faster then taking a dremel to it.

 

i just did it with a dremel and one of those plastic cutting bits--looks sorta like a drill bit--goes pretty quick and then you can cut flush to the edge.
I apologize to all because I really didnt want to post any pics until it was more purdy.

 

I just drilled 1/2" hole then cut the rest out with a stanley knife . OD , Thought you would have cut those out years ago ......

 

I found a large sanding disc used to grind the rear surface works best...you need to go slow so it doesn't melt, but the result looks a lot better than trying to Dremel or drill them out

 

excellent idea ...

 

Dang--that is a good idea--you could actually reduce how thick they are yet retain the oem look. Sweet Dan--thanks for posting that.

 

I just saw your underhood pics and I have to say, WOW.

With all your talk and ideas about IAT and cooling, you still have your air filter directly above the radiator and your battery blocking the radiator exit air flow. Put that battery in the trunk where it belongs and get that supercharger some cool, fresh air.

 

lol--dont judge a book by its cover?

If you look closely at the picture of the grill--you will see that I sloped the front support beam and opened up an area so a direct stream of air from the grill will supply that air filter and the coils under it ( that plate under the air filter is a heat shield from the radiator). It only gets about 5-8 degrees above ambient--even at low speed! I rerouted the ambient temp sensor to fit on the bottom side of the airfilter that gives me a read out of that temp on the lcd screen inside the cabin--lol. It is sort of like a stealth 350z air duct there. Plus no water concerns.
I didnt relocate the battery because I dont have a cooling problem.I dont like all that heat from the radiator being directed toward the front of the engine anyway. Dont forget I also have a small undertray spoiler to create a little low pressure area to help evacuate the engine bay heat. It seems to help a little.
Now if you have a vented hood that could be ducted to that airflow --that would be sweet.
My ect on a 100F day with about 50% humidity, a/c on, speeds less than 45mph and setting at redlights etc--never gets over 205F at the top radiator hose. Only my low speed fan ever turns on. On the interstate heck I am at 180F or lower--same day.
So for my enviroment/driving--I am good.

 

I wondered if you had something else going on there.




Cooling a side, a battery to trunk relocation is good for other reasons. Less weight if you go with a race battery, better for the better becaue of less heat plus better weight distribution. But you already knew all that.

The radiator air being directed at the front of the engine is a good thing. Yes it might be 200 degree air, but how hot is the motor, alternator, supercharger, fuel rail and block? If I was going to direct the air flow anywhere other then the ront of the motor, I would direct it to the exhaust manifold.

 

well--since the south is having multiple 100F days now and my stuck in traffic temps are approaching 210 I decided to install a small pusher fan on the a/c condenser.
I did that--its activated by a switch on the console.
AND IT WORKS.
I also increased the spacing very slightly between the condenser and the radiator.
Here's an example. When I go to work, i have to park in a parking garage that is 5 stories up. So its 1st gear all the way up. Usually if I enter at 190F the car is at 205 by the time I park and the low speed oem fan has activated. Well not anymore. Temp stayed at 190 with the fan activated.
Fan also is of use at speeds up to 50mph. I would assume that the fan is helping to redirect the air through the condenser/rad.
This works for low speed cooling + the a/c stay cooler

 

Good, practical stuff. I have had my coolant temps go up on a 5 degree day. I was stuck in rush hour and I could watch the temp cycle up to 208, down to 190 when the fan came on, up to 208, back down. Not enough airflw at 10 mph.

 

has anyone tried plumbing their oil coolers in parallel instead of the series set up the factory does?
Even though my coolant temps are well controlled, i would like to lower my oil temps just a little--its easy for this engine to get to 210 ( at the remote filter) on the street ithout going into boost.
Like I have said --this engine is harder on the coolant systems than all the others I have had.
So I am thinking by plumbing in parallel may be all I need.
It may be a real challange to do?

 

Just dump the stock oil coolers and adopt something bigger and keep them in "series".
Setrab, fluidyne, mih, racetech, ah fabrication all come to mind

 

that may be what I need to do old buddy.

 

I'm no expert about this subject but I have done a lot of reading about heat control for when I start adding power. From what I have learned, the oil coolers are more like oil temp regulators. It's job is to keep the temperature consistent not "cool" so to speak. So I do agree that lowering the oil temperature would be good, but I think the time and effort to do so would be too great. I bet if you could help hot air escape quicker (without increasing drag too much) you would see better performance without the engineering and redesign. What do you think? That was just my initial thought.

 

IDK OD it seems to me that the real problem with the stock set up is the internal thermostats and oil lines. I believe the stock coolers themselves are more then sufficient in size.

I am playing with the idea of using a oil-water heat exchanger. I really like that a guy could set it up to regulate the oil temps to closer match the water temps.

Someday when I have more time on my hands it is my plan route my system like this: hot oil line from block - 190* bypassing thermostat - stock oil coolers in series with thermostats removed - oil to water heat exchanger - back to bypassing thermostat - return.

 

I think that every guy with some form of power adding already enlarged the holes in the wheel well
Somebody has even gone to the extent to add a vent on the wheel arch to avoid creating a positive pressure area in the wheel well, like the 458 italia.

 

I have a friend that has a supercharged s2000 that runs a water/oil cooler. His oil temps are stable as his water temps.
I certainly see the advantages of one but i am not sure its the right thing for a rotary engine as the rotary uses the oil to cool more so than any recip? Our engine water cooling system is marginal at best and to place additional demand on it may not be the best thing to do? IDK?

Its my low speed ( street) temps that need the help. I havent tracked this engine---yet. So I cant speak for that need.....yet

So I am torn between increasing cooler size, replumbing to a parrellel system or simply adding a small puller fan to the drivers side?
The simplest is to add a small fan, so I may order a 6inch spal fan this week. They are pretty cheap and if it doesnt work I will not be out much time or money. If that doesnt work I will be getting a nascar type oil cooler for the drivers side and replumbing with better lines.
My little radiator accessory fan has worked out very well.
Stay tuned.

 

6.5 inch spal puller fan on the way to my house. I will install it on the drivers side.
You know with many experts saying that the oil should not be any higher that 210F going into the engine--- most everyone, I bet at one time or the other --are seeing higher temps than that?