I remember you sharing that Eric and it just so happens I have an AEM cone filter that i actually run
I just use the k&n to block the intake during storage/install.
You are right about the k&n and my car actually runs better with the paper filter--i have a short maf pipe and i think the aem filter helps to smooth the turbulence some.
Inclosed airbox will help an FI car?
I dont understand that one?

Lol Team--- havent been doing much backyard stuff huh?

I so much want to give this engine a little throttle--i can tell it is wanting to go. It revs so damn fast...........

 

Sucks man... I always Finish...

 

Heck sometimes its hard to get started!
OD

 

The purpose of this airbox in my book is to funnel fresh cool air into the motor in lieu of pickup much hotter engine bay air. The "enclosed" concept is to retain all this fresh air. if/when you record the IAT data you'll easily see this in the data. Also, you'll find at speed that the available air is much higher. I map based system sees this adding more fuel which means the engine is processing more air. BIG air funnel on the front end above the rad is a great location as you still get great water cooling. Try it. You'll like it. Gotta log the data to prove it though.

E

 

I did some tests in this aspect. A duct with a big mouth (usual delta shaped intake) gives a 0.2psi increase in intake pressure at 130km\h.

 

OD, what breakin strategy are you following?

 

interesting Eric and Bse. I have been measuring the air temps at the filter site and it is only approx 5F higher than ambient. Of course no pressure increase expected.
Looks like I may have a project to complete.

Conservative break in for me.
1K miles not above 4K rpms and no boost.
The next 500 miles very low boost and no higher than 6-7K rpms.
Using dino oil only for break in--using rotella diesel 15-40
I changed oil/filter after the first 30 mins of running and then at 3K

This engine is running higher temps than my other ones.
I will go to synthetic oil after break in and that usually reduces temps by approx 10F
OD

 

I know you really wanted to go with lower compression rotors. What was Cam's reasoning?

 

Didnt need it and the expense would have been much more.
He has faith in just staying low boost (7lbs or so) and the taller apex seals with a good balancing job.
If I wanted more HP then that would have been the way to go

 

My air intake modifications seems to be working--ambient temps this morning in Ga was 60F and the air temp on the air filter was 62F after 10 miles of driving in suburban/interstate traffic. Engine bay temperatures are also down. My increased cool airflow into the engine bay plus my undertray spoiler causing a low pressure area under the engine is helping, even at lower speeds.
I am pleased.

The engine is running great--vacuum readings increasing as the break in continues. Operating temps coming down a little. Cranking easier. I can tell already it loves 3nd/4th gear.
Getting the miles on it and then get a fresh tune.
Before the tune I do plan to remove my injectors and send them off for cleaning and balancing. I am tempted to build my own fuel injector cleaning set up.
OD

 

Good choice with the cleaning and balancing.

I got an extra set of injectors and will also pull mine and send them all in at one time to get the best possible matched sets before I start my tune.

 

I dont know how Cam did this but my oil pressure is soooo much better. I had the Mazmart oil pressure relief mod in my other engine and that is a great improvement over oem for sure.
But, on cold start with the mazmart one--it would peg my 100psi gauge for a little and the pressures would vary after warm up from idle of 30 (oil temps 200F) to 70 at 3K to 80-90 at 8K
Cams-- goes to 90 on cold start and after warm up down to 40-45 at idle and back up to 80 at 3 K and no higher ( although I am not going over 4K rpms at present)
It doesnt have as wide a range as my previous engine. there is more to this that just changing the relief valve?
Very nice!

 

300 miles on it --woo hoo!

 

That's all?

We need to change your username to old@ssdragger

 

^haha

 

Yep!Lol.
Youngest daughter graduated high school with honors last week and i was surrounded by seas of estrogen. I hardly couldnt get a dang thing done.
It will be broken in by this Sunday and the tuning will start.
I can already tell its a strong motor.
If my old skinny *** has any feeling left in it--just doing what i am doing now--it feels like 300whp is not going to be a problem at all.

 

http://www.racingbeat.com/mazda/perf...rcharging.html OD, you may like this info

 

nice read--thanks.
I am only boosting 6-7lbs with my set up. So it seems I am Ok basically.
I dont know what all Cam did to modify the oil system, but I can say by just monitoring it it is much better than any engine I have ever had.
Notice they never even mentioned a redline of 9K --no higher than 8.5K I have been right!! lol.

 

this is sure one sweet running engine and its raring to go.
I do have some support system work to do, and of course tuning.

I DONT KNOW WHAT CAM DID BUT THE COOLING SYSTEMS ARE EXTRACTING A GOOD DEAL MORE HEAT.
That is very interesting.

 

RotaryTherapy ... i just spent a full minute looking at your sig ... just wanted to throw that out there...

 

LMAO @ Stink

 

RT who are the girls in your sig? I too gaze at it for minutes at a time.

OD congrats on the engine sounds like a bad boy ya got there.

 

OD

I saw where you stated your FI A/F was 11.1 to 11.3 on the track under heavy load. I would pull those down to 10.9 if it were me for track use. I just spent 8 hours on the dyno w/ a TTA NASA FD. The difference in power between 11.3 and 10.9 is really a mute point in reguards to the safety it provides for 30 minute sessions at WOT, but then again I generally leave 10hp on the table for safety. Also it would be very beneficial for knock readings. Again one the reasons I am not a fan of using the stock ECU for boosted apps. ( I am not trying to start a discussion on this.)

When are you running again? The next local NASA event is at Hallett in Tulsa Oklahoma. I'll be there supporting the FD in TTA.

Good luck on the new setup. Balanced motors make a huge difference.

 

would you mind posting 4 times in a row ................................................pl ease !!!!!

 

Appreciate the data. Tuning this one is going to be complety different for me. I agree that riching up to a 10.9 may be a good idea for the high loads. The rotary seems to tolerate a wide range of a/f's ok.
I am also convinced after collecting some basic data that a post blower IAT will work much better than an algo rythym for the maf system.
So that has to be installed and scaled.
That means some a little machine work so I can install a water meth nozzle post iat.
This engine challanges the cooling system more than any other rotory engine I have had or seen. Thats a good thing, but it may envolve a little tweaking of my cooling systems.
I am on the fence about installing the 09 primary fuel injectors before I tune and I have some work to do on cooling the fuel rail. that thing gets HOT.
I also figue it is a good time to get a new o2 sensor as I already just replaced the maf.
It is going to be 100F ambient tomorrow here in Central Ga. I am getting a taste of what the arizona boys have to live with.