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Old 10-22-2009, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
The AFRs (as shown on that plot) are actually pretty good on the high-power pull.
The horsepower made is actually pretty much in line with what you would expect at that boost level so the dyno does not look too bad to me even if it was running a little rich
Old 10-22-2009, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Brettus
The horsepower made is actually pretty much in line with what you would expect at that boost level so the dyno does not look too bad to me even if it was running a little rich
i wish I had that power curve on my last dyno
Old 10-22-2009, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Why is this? CAT?
They couldn't just recalibrate?
I'd be pissed (and withholding payment) if my dyno operator had equipment like that.
Every dyno I've run has been this way.... I always assumed it was just due to the air mixing with the exhaust at the tailpipe.

Originally Posted by Brettus
The horsepower made is actually pretty much in line with what you would expect at that boost level so the dyno does not look too bad to me even if it was running a little rich
Running way rich!
Old 10-22-2009, 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Brettus
Before I capitulate completely can you at least do me one small favour . Tell me how much thread is left exposed on the actuator arm and if the lock nut is still in place .........

IE was the arm adjusted by BNR ?
im pretty curious about this too..im not able to get more than 5 psi out of mine on just the wastegate with no boost controller...but then again im not sure how accurate my electronic prosport boost gauge is **my wastegate actuator arm is closed all the way too..if i cant resolve mine i think i might get a pressure test done by a professional just to give me piece of mind i have no leak
Old 10-22-2009, 11:48 PM
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Hmm. Some might be up to a 1/2 point off, but most are dead on if you don't have a CAT.
Its hard to get outside air to reenter an exhaust that is pumping out at several hundred CFM.

Would you buy a ruler if the salesman told you that it is always exactly 1/8" off?
Old 10-22-2009, 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by gregs
im pretty curious about this too..im not able to get more than 5 psi out of mine on just the wastegate with no boost controller...but then again im not sure how accurate my electronic prosport boost gauge is **my wastegate actuator arm is closed all the way too..if i cant resolve mine i think i might get a pressure test done by a professional just to give me piece of mind i have no leak
how's the car feel at 5psi?
Old 10-22-2009, 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Hmm. Some might be up to a 1/2 point off, but most are dead on if you don't have a CAT.
Its hard to get outside air to reenter an exhaust that is pumping out at several hundred CFM.

Would you buy a ruler if the salesman told you that it is always exactly 1/8" off?
HAHA - I have worked around it..... but I would be curious to know the deal.
Old 10-22-2009, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 05rex8
how's the car feel at 5psi?
imo it feels very similar to my non upgraded greddy turbo kit before with spikes to 10 psi and falling off at 8 on my same prosport gauge ***minus the power loss in the upper rpm like the non upgraded greddy*** with the bnr turbo it feels like it makes good power above 8k no prob
Old 10-23-2009, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Kane
Every dyno I've run has been this way.... I always assumed it was just due to the air mixing with the exhaust at the tailpipe.



Running way rich!
So when I went to another place with a dynojet that same exact tune showed AFR's in 10's...then when Kane came up here to tune we discovered it was actually in the 8's because of the amount of fuel he had to remove.

So the debate was which dynojet had an accurate O2 reading...
Old 10-23-2009, 12:57 AM
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8's? How did you measure that?
Very few wide bands (short of the Horriba) can measure below 9:1.
The factory WBO2S only goes down to 11:1 (10.7:1 on some models).

BTW - you guys that are only seeing 6 PSI on the upgraded turbo have forgotten about flow again, haven't you?
Old 10-23-2009, 01:00 AM
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i dont think so i have jeff...care to school me??
Old 10-23-2009, 01:24 AM
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Flow is all that matters.
The BNR at 6 PSI may be flowing WAY more air than the GReddy at 9 PSI.
Look at your MAF numbers at peak boost.

Remember - if you could have ZERO boost, you would be really happy.
Old 10-23-2009, 01:30 AM
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***skooled***.....thanks jeff
Old 10-23-2009, 01:43 AM
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Flow is all that matters.
The BNR at 6 PSI may be flowing WAY more air than the GReddy at 9 PSI.
Look at your MAF numbers at peak boost.

Remember - if you could have ZERO boost, you would be really happy.
I was hoping my 4psi was all flow related but I dont think my exhaust is that good! lol!
Old 10-23-2009, 04:30 AM
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Has anyone looked at the Porsche variable bladed turbo design?
Old 10-23-2009, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
8's? How did you measure that?
Very few wide bands (short of the Horriba) can measure below 9:1.
The factory WBO2S only goes down to 11:1 (10.7:1 on some models).

BTW - you guys that are only seeing 6 PSI on the upgraded turbo have forgotten about flow again, haven't you?
MM,

We figured this out based on the fact that the DJ only was able to read 10.2 I believe. So with as much fuel that we had to remove to make it read in the 11's like we wanted to Kane said it was somewhere in the 8's. I cant remember what percent exactly it was. But it sure was running rich as hell.

Yes, time and time again I always see you pointing out the FLOW talk. I understand it. Thats why people cant make the assumption on HP solely X PSI vs X PSI on two different turbos. Because the flow characteristics are going to be different. Some turbos flow better than others...point taken.

Last edited by J.Cab; 10-23-2009 at 12:29 PM.
Old 10-23-2009, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
The BNR at 6 PSI may be flowing WAY more air than the GReddy at 9 PSI.
.
Whilst I understand what you are saying , the simple fact is that the BNR at 6 psi is going to make somewhere around 265whp (depending on tune etc)- I doubt very much that these guys will be happy with that .

Last edited by Brettus; 10-23-2009 at 01:22 PM.
Old 10-23-2009, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by J.Cab
MM,

We figured this out based on the fact that the DJ only was able to read 10.2 I believe. So with as much fuel that we had to remove to make it read in the 11's like we wanted to Kane said it was somewhere in the 8's. I cant remember what percent exactly it was. But it sure was running rich as hell.

Yes, time and time again I always see you pointing out the FLOW talk. I understand it. Thats why people cant make the assumption on HP solely X PSI vs X PSI on two different turbos. Because the flow characteristics are going to be different. Some turbos flow better than others...point taken.
LOLZ yeah - once the P2's came on; I had to take out about 25% of the fuel just to budge the AFR's off 10.

I had mine flow tested later on - they were "730" - but in actuality - they were 800cc.
Old 10-24-2009, 11:15 AM
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The stock wastegate is a 7 psi spring. After pressure drop through the intercooler and a little back pressure on the wastegate valve it gets 4-5 psi to the engine. After that you need a boost controller. If you want to see what the stock wastegate does, remove the boost source going to the wastegate. Keep an eye on the boost b/c it will climb very fast. If your car isn't tuned you don't need to try it. If your boost stays at 4-5 psi, either you have a boost leak or the wastegate is too weak to make more boost. If the boost climbs, then you just need a boost controller. Keep in mind that the more boost you run the more powerband you are going to have.

Bryan@BNR
Old 10-25-2009, 01:25 PM
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/\ Boost controller will only be of any use up to about 6500rpm - after that the increase in backpressure will overwhelm the wastegate and boost will drop away rapidly .
An rpm adjustable boost controller helps but does not completely solve the issue if you are pushing for max. HP .
Old 10-25-2009, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Bryan@BNR
The stock wastegate is a 7 psi spring. After pressure drop through the intercooler and a little back pressure on the wastegate valve it gets 4-5 psi to the engine. After that you need a boost controller. If you want to see what the stock wastegate does, remove the boost source going to the wastegate. Keep an eye on the boost b/c it will climb very fast. If your car isn't tuned you don't need to try it. If your boost stays at 4-5 psi, either you have a boost leak or the wastegate is too weak to make more boost. If the boost climbs, then you just need a boost controller. Keep in mind that the more boost you run the more powerband you are going to have.

Bryan@BNR
stop postwhoring, bryan. go and finish the turbo that i sent you.
Old 11-02-2009, 11:13 PM
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So, PhantomRX-8 & gregs did you guys get your cars sorted out?
Old 11-02-2009, 11:15 PM
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^^i havent yet..my car is at the body shop..should get it back by wed. once i have my car ill do some data logs and maybe just crank up the boost with my profec
Old 11-03-2009, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by gregs
^^i havent yet..my car is at the body shop..should get it back by wed. once i have my car ill do some data logs and maybe just crank up the boost with my profec
Let me know how it turns out when you crank up the boost! that will be your face when you do....

At least that was the look I received when I pulled an STI...
Old 11-03-2009, 12:10 AM
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lol, ill keep you posted!


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