I can tell you that this turbo is ten times better than the stock greddy turbo. Kane did you get the logs I sent you. Son of a B*#%! the tune is getting better. Breaking the speed limit and then some

 

well if you have problems with the boost dropping off up top, just shorten that wastegate rod. It will give you more spring tension and the boost will go up. I have opened up that exhaust housing quite a bit to decrease back pressure and the turbine wheel is clipped for lower back pressure.

The boost fall off could be b/c the compressor wheel being too small. The engine was just using up all the air the turbo could flow and the boost would fall off.

Bryan

 

I'm wondering if clipping my turbine would be advantageous . What is the downside ?

 

Yeah I got it - I'll update it as soon as I PT and then eat dinner.

BTW - I stand corrected; apparently it is a clipped turbine... oops.

 

Slower spool... but if the issue is the cold side not keeping up - it won't matter on the boost fall off anyway.

 

Well as soon as the tune from Kane is 100% I will be able to turn up the boost on the controller, and let you guys know if I am able to boost all the way to redline. I would think with the wastegate being ported, it shouldnt be a problem.

 

that's what i thought - I'm not so keen on losing out at the bottom end

 

Well I can tell you that you cant even tell even if there is a slower spool. Turbo is just badass all around! I dont experience slower spool or "lag" to be where I am here waiting for the turbo to kick in...

 

Remember the Aerocharger link I sent you.... LOL


BY "lag" I mean MAYBE a few hundred RPM - MAYBE....

Nice thing about rotaries is that they will spin up almost anything.

 

Well to start off, your turbine housing and turbine wheel dictate spool, backpressure and boost charactoristics. When you port the wastegate, that keeps boost creep under control. Porting the wastegate will make the boost drop off worse b/c there is more area for the backpressure to push on. When you get to maxing out the compressor side, that will cause that same drop off symptom. The compressor side being so small is what I think causes the drop off. Mitsubishi turbine housings are a open volute design which actually has a problem with creep.

 

Just looked up for a definition of boost creep and got this :

Boost creep: When the boost rises past the set limit. This is often caused by a wastegate that cannot handle the exhaust flow.

This does seem to happen at lower rpm with my setup . If you set for say 10 psi at 6000rpm I'll get maybe 12psi for 500rpm or so when I nail it at 4000 . Then later past 6500 it would drop to 7-8 psi . That is why I did a 2 stage controller setup - works great .
I now get 7-8 psi low down ramping up to 9-10 at 6500 then 10-11 from 6500 to the redline .
The car is way more controllable than it used to be ....

 

My 323 GTX has a mitsubishi TD06 turbo on it but with a 50 trim compressor. The minimum boost I can run is 18 psi. So I set the low side of the boost controller at 18 and get the full benifit of the improved mid range TQ of the upped boost.

 

if you floor it at say 2500 rpm at what rpm do you reach 7 psi ?

 

I would wait till the car is tuned and the boost is turned up to answer that question. B/C who wants to run 7 psi? hehe

 

/\ good call

 

Ill tell you tonight. I am getting ready to go and datalog on my new map...

 

hmm, wonder if i'll be the first BNR turbo'd AT.

 

I think you are the 2nd with an AT. I would suggest doing a valve body upgrade to the trans to help the thing accept a little TQ :D.

 

it is strangely quiet in here .....................

 

I'll wait for Justin's feedback.

But other than the dyno guy shutting him down and jacking up my tune.... things are going well.

 

Yes sorry guys, I have been busy not to mention very disappointed with the guy running the dyno session. He claimed that my tune from Kane was far to lean according to his new sniffer on the dyno. So he went ahead and made changes, resulting in making it rich as ****. So looks like I have to go elsewhere and have Kane unscrew the tune that the guy made me.

Who says that pushing the boost past 7-8 psi is to much. I am soo pissed that he wouldnt let me because he didnt want the engine to blow...GAY!!! So I wasnt able to go past it 7-8 psi. Then not to mention the tune was shitty. So this wouldnt even be accurate representation of what the turbo can do...

The fact that Kane's tune was making more power than his tune all the way up to when he let off the gas shows that Kane's was superior.

Than I do an AP dyno pull with the 2 different maps and got this info:

Dyno guy: 315 hp
Kane's tune: 352 hp

Tell me which is better?

 

ap dyno is crap

did you actually get real data off the dyno?
what were your afr's in boost with kane's tune, and the dyno guy's tune?

 

The weird thing is when I have been datalogging with PPO2 we had it tuned to 11.2 but when it went on the dyno it read 12-13 in some places. The dyno guy's tune had it at 10-11. The dynojet was only about 3 weeks old.

The AP dyno reads about right. Because it said 315hp and the dyno said 278. So with Kane's 352 it should put it right now around 290-300 on the dyno at 7-8 pounds.

 

10 afr is unnecessary in boost
11.2 like you had is perfect

 

Thats why I dont understand why he felt that it was a bad tune. Then to top it off he wouldnt let me go turn up the boost on the boost controller. All I was able to do was the wastegate.