chrism

damn sorry to hear.....thank god we got the membership we do here!

SlideWayz

+1 on that.

usmc320

No problem. I stumbled across it a couple of years ago and have found it useful a few times.

slavearm

New Engine Ordered. Should be in CA next Wednesday or Thursday.

Got a pretty sweet deal. $2100 Shipped for an 06 motor with 15K miles and a 90 day warranty.

JER is going to do the install for me (with a little assistance from me). I was going to do it myself, but Linh made me an offer I could not refuse. So I will just be an assistant instead of the lead on the swap. After that, if someone wants to dissect my motor ( I will want the good parts back mind you ) I am open to that.

One thing I would like to learn, is if it is truely worth investing in some custom milled rotors to accept deeper apex seals like those used in the REW. When we pull my motor apart, it should be pretty apparent what the weak link in the seals was.

Crazy Shane out.

Jedi54

iTrader: (7)

time to update your siggy.

Razz1

Won't running too lean causing ping to change into major detonation be the root cause for the seals going out?

I thought I read several times that detonation will destroy the seals.

If this is true.... I would look at the tune more than I would look at the seals being the weak link.


But hey! it's your engine and you know it better than anyone else.

I like to see your condition disapear with the AP tune.

Then we will all know the truth.

Red Devil

?????????????

staticlag

So its still drivable, and still boosts, then are you sure that somethings wrong?

slavearm

First off it doesn't start, ran like crap, rattled, shakes like it is coming apart at the seams, the engine light flashes constantly, it stalls when you let off the gas, you can hear the difference when cranking, I could go on, but lets assume I am not a complete fooktard. The engine is toast.

Second, I know the tuning is the issue. California Gas is worse than I or my tuner thought, and I was not able to compensate enough.

The reason I am trying the AP, is because the cost is low enough that if it gets me better fuel economy, better idle, run even smoother than the intx, and makes it easier to pass smog, it doesn't seem like I have much to lose now does it? With a tune that is off for the fuel you are using, it doesn't matter what you use for management, you will blow a motor.

Lastly, I understand that the pre-ignition/detonation killed the seal. My point is, which seal went will kinda say which was the weakest in the set, or at the very least, which one is most likely to blow when your engine encounters PING.

I also had an 04 motor that I beat the crap out of even before the flash that made it add more oil to the injection scheme. I am sure that could not have been good for it either. So keep the bashing outta my thread. If anyone here would have a right to bash a tuner or piece of equipment it would be me, and since I am not, don't bash crap on my thread.

rotorocks

You know that our seals are made of 2 pieces, right? I can guarantee you that it broke the corner piece off the main part of the seal. Just like on mine. that piece is the weakest link on the Rx-8.
most likely all the blown motors that experienced some detonation will (sooner or later) break the seal in those places.
I almost want to buy your blown motor off of ya, and then rebuild it with 3mm single piece seals, or the ceramic (they are one piece too, if I am not mistaken) and that would make the renny virtually bulletproof. (not idiot proof off course, a massive ping will destroy the motor no matte what it is made of)
Too bad I got no mo money

rotorocks

Neither did mine, but they broke eventually, and you saw where
Although now that I have learned the APV "punch" factor with the
T70 turbo, I tend to think that that is what actually destroyed my motor. My tune wasn't set to compensate for all that extra airat 6500 rpm and above...

slavearm

Yah I was actually thinking of tearing down my old motor, and if the rotors were good, I was thinking about sending them off to Mazmart to have them machined to accept the REW apex seals which should hold up a little better than the 2 piece jobber.

Fanman

Maybe a set of ceramic 1 pieces on the old engine ?

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...light=Iannetti

slavearm

The problem with the old engine, is that there is most likely housing damage... and I will be honest with you... if this car ends up costing too much more, I am going to do a part out and buy the freaky deeky lotus elise or save up for a year or so and buy the GT-R.

slavearm

Man... you should have at least prefaced that with, "I think things are going to be better this time..." or "Stay the course, everything will be worked out." But nooooooooooooooooooo Mr. "I got dibs on the tranny!" had to come out this morning.

Red Devil

I'm curious, what leads you to believe REW apex seals are stronger than Renesis?

And I think things are getting better and better with this vehicle, and the Renesis, can't see a reason to back out now unless you just really want a change of car.

slavearm

1 piece vs 2 piece. I think some things are better, but I think some things are worse. My belief comes from a professional rotary engine builder (someone you all probably know or should know). He told me through his agent if you are going to keep the turbo you should probably use the REW seals. Because I don't build 13Bs for a living, or tear the dead ones apart regularly, I tend to value the opinion of someone who does, and has done so for something like 30 years.

staticlag

At least were starting to learn the limits of the RX8.

Were you at 14psi when it happened? What AFRs did you usually run at that range?

slavearm

8.5-9PSI I usually was running 10.7-11.3, but you know temp, throttle position, pump features etc affect that.

staticlag

Ouch, that seriously sucks

Kind of freaks me out.

California gas sounds pretty crappy.

rotorocks

Slavearm, very likely it is the cumulative effect of running the FI, on the motor.
Looks like after around 20K many of Rennys turn belly up was it how much you put on the motor with the FI? Fanman, mine, someone else i have heard around the forums here, but i can't recall who. That ping you had might not have been the sound of detonation, but the sound from swallowing the apex, just because it was no longer up to the task.

SlideWayz

Add me to the list, Bro. My old sig was 'Sapphonica', and I think I coined the term 'Dead Renesis Club'.

IMHO, one of the biggest problems with the stand alone ECUs is that they don't 'chase' a tune the way a stock ECU can. That means on a given day variations in temp, humidity, barometric pressure, the frickin' phase of the moon, etc. can catastrophically bugger yer tune and grenade this lovely yet fragile engine.

This is my second blown engine. F#c!

The estimable CRH is parachuting down on Sunday to help me sort it out. When my first Renesis ate an apex seal, it sounded like a diesel and smelled worse. This time, it's just a lack of power and a 'dull' sound from the engine. Swapping out all the electrical bits didn't help.

I doubt it was bad gas that killed it since I'm dumping 2 gallons of ERC race gas into every tank of CA faux 91, and I don't get pings with 1 gallon mixed.

staticlag

Rotaries don't die, they only become faster

rotorocks

amen to that, bro.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Ok let me join in here. 1st of all if you are buying a motor from a engine finder company--make sure you get the vin number go to your dealership and have them run the mainataince record for that car---they can verify the miles on the engine at that time--believe you me they will advertise an engine as a 15K one when in fact it will have 50K on it--ask me how i know.
2nd accept the engine only after a compression test has been done--can be a stipulation on your contract. make sure your warrenty reads cash refund not will get you another engine.
3--- and best of all--if your car cranks ok and goes into boost---it may NOT be blown. Do a good double duty carbon cleaning on it---call Cam at Pettit racing and he will tell you the stories. The seals/springs may be just stuck/gummed up so bad that they allow a great deal of blowby and lost compression. It is worth a try and it is a cheap thing to do.
4- do compression test on your engine to find out which rotor is blown---if it is i will bet you it is the front rotor.
5- get your *** down to the auto parts store and buy a case of 20w/50 wgt oil and DONT RUN ANYTHING ELSE. There are reasons for this. I may tell you about them later
6- clean the leading sparkplug hole space between the end of the plug(you ARE running the rx 7 cold trailing barless plug arent you?) and the combustion chamber before you crank your new engine and everytime you take the plug out--it has sharp edges and a recess spot that is a haven for carbon buildups and detonation sites!
7- get your fuel injectors professionally cleaned and balanced--you will be surprised at their findings.
8- get a water meth kit! It's intake charge temps, certain weak spots in this engine and carbon that is causing most of the probs.(and crappy gas in some areas)
9- bigger seals will not help you---for the expense it is not worth it.
10- if your engine is blown--and you have 50K on the engine---most likely---but maybe not ---both housings are not useable and at least one rotor. it is cheaper to buy a low milage engine than it is to buy 2 housings and a new rotor.
Hate to tell you this but there is one on e bay for $1600---seems good.
If I can help give a holler
olddragger