Mawnee's Custom Turbo build
05-19-2009, 10:05 PM
#26
If your goals are to get much above 350-rwhp or so you might want to consider a larger wastegate. 38mm is pretty small but it should suffice.
Also 2.5" manifold pipes are pretty big I would look at something with a 2" ID at largest.
You will also more than likely need custom radiator hoses as the manifold and downpipe will come very close to the hose and melt it or actually run where it lays.
Depending on your turbo/manifold/wastegate/downpipe placement you might want to move the AST, too
Getting the intake setup with the draw-thru MAF will be key otherwise your car will be untuneable with the COBB AP. Routing the intercooler charge piping and setting up the intake will make things cramp. You ideally want a 6" straight 3.5" ID pipe for the MAF.
Also the easiest way to get an oil supply for your turbo is to get a T-fitting and screw it inbetween the oil pressure sensor and run a hose to the turbo and return the oil to the oil pan with another fitting. Or you can put the T off an oil pedestal adapter plate.
Also 2.5" manifold pipes are pretty big I would look at something with a 2" ID at largest.
You will also more than likely need custom radiator hoses as the manifold and downpipe will come very close to the hose and melt it or actually run where it lays.
Depending on your turbo/manifold/wastegate/downpipe placement you might want to move the AST, too
Getting the intake setup with the draw-thru MAF will be key otherwise your car will be untuneable with the COBB AP. Routing the intercooler charge piping and setting up the intake will make things cramp. You ideally want a 6" straight 3.5" ID pipe for the MAF.
Also the easiest way to get an oil supply for your turbo is to get a T-fitting and screw it inbetween the oil pressure sensor and run a hose to the turbo and return the oil to the oil pan with another fitting. Or you can put the T off an oil pedestal adapter plate.
05-20-2009, 08:51 AM
#27
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so your basically piecing together your own turbo kit?
how do you know what all you need? i would love to turbo my car but i dont know anything about it...never done anything like that to a car. the most i have done was install a catback and intake all on my own on my rx8 (the only car that i have ever modded) i would love to start buying the pieces to put one together but i just dont know where to start.
where do you get the specs for the pipe diameter. aswell as what angles they need to be bended what needs welded together if any.
where do you get the parts of a turbo piece by piece i know i can get the BOV and others. sorry if this is really broad lol just figured id ask you since your doing this on your own
and i have been researching like crazy on turbos i printed of the pdf file of the greddy turbo install just to read how it was done i got pictures of all the parts included but its vague no part numbers or sizes.
if you dont mind helpin me out a little that would be cool
and if you would rather pm me instead of explaining it on the thread thats fine i dont wanna get away from the subject of your turbo thread
i really hope i dont get flammed for this lol im always so worried about asking questions on here because of that lol
dont wanna lose my street cred HAHA............................................jk
how do you know what all you need? i would love to turbo my car but i dont know anything about it...never done anything like that to a car. the most i have done was install a catback and intake all on my own on my rx8 (the only car that i have ever modded) i would love to start buying the pieces to put one together but i just dont know where to start.
where do you get the specs for the pipe diameter. aswell as what angles they need to be bended what needs welded together if any.
where do you get the parts of a turbo piece by piece i know i can get the BOV and others. sorry if this is really broad lol just figured id ask you since your doing this on your own
and i have been researching like crazy on turbos i printed of the pdf file of the greddy turbo install just to read how it was done i got pictures of all the parts included but its vague no part numbers or sizes.
if you dont mind helpin me out a little that would be cool
and if you would rather pm me instead of explaining it on the thread thats fine i dont wanna get away from the subject of your turbo thread
i really hope i dont get flammed for this lol im always so worried about asking questions on here because of that lol
dont wanna lose my street cred HAHA............................................jk
I did do a custom procharger setup on my last car(98 vette) though. That job entailed alot of modifactations to the car itself but the supercharger part was pretty easy since its just planning and cutting aluminum intercooling pipe.
As far as knowing what parts I need, thats easy....just poke around on the forced induction forums for a while and research. I've spent years surfing the forced induction section on the Corvette forums and now a couple here on rx8Club. I've been watching as people tested the first turbo setups to see what works and what doesnt. I've also kept my eye on what parts fail or need upgrading to reach certain horsepower goals. For the flanges, fittings and adapters I'm still not sure exactly what I need for all of those. I'm just waiting for the parts I know I need to arrive, then I'll figure out what attatches to those
I'll wait till I can assemble the entire turbo setup on my garage floor and am positive I have every bit, piece and fitting before I start taking my car apart to install it.Also get to know who the knowledgable guys on the forums are, they are great sources for info. For instance I contacted Bryan@BNR for a turbo recommendation after seeing the wealth of info and knowledge he passed out on the forums. Now he is building my turbo for me
Last edited by Mawnee; 05-30-2009 at 10:14 PM.
05-20-2009, 09:48 AM
#28
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If your goals are to get much above 350-rwhp or so you might want to consider a larger wastegate. 38mm is pretty small but it should suffice.
Also 2.5" manifold pipes are pretty big I would look at something with a 2" ID at largest.
You will also more than likely need custom radiator hoses as the manifold and downpipe will come very close to the hose and melt it or actually run where it lays.
Depending on your turbo/manifold/wastegate/downpipe placement you might want to move the AST, too
Getting the intake setup with the draw-thru MAF will be key otherwise your car will be untuneable with the COBB AP. Routing the intercooler charge piping and setting up the intake will make things cramp. You ideally want a 6" straight 3.5" ID pipe for the MAF.
Also the easiest way to get an oil supply for your turbo is to get a T-fitting and screw it inbetween the oil pressure sensor and run a hose to the turbo and return the oil to the oil pan with another fitting. Or you can put the T off an oil pedestal adapter plate.
Also 2.5" manifold pipes are pretty big I would look at something with a 2" ID at largest.
You will also more than likely need custom radiator hoses as the manifold and downpipe will come very close to the hose and melt it or actually run where it lays.
Depending on your turbo/manifold/wastegate/downpipe placement you might want to move the AST, too
Getting the intake setup with the draw-thru MAF will be key otherwise your car will be untuneable with the COBB AP. Routing the intercooler charge piping and setting up the intake will make things cramp. You ideally want a 6" straight 3.5" ID pipe for the MAF.
Also the easiest way to get an oil supply for your turbo is to get a T-fitting and screw it inbetween the oil pressure sensor and run a hose to the turbo and return the oil to the oil pan with another fitting. Or you can put the T off an oil pedestal adapter plate.
I have been pondering the same thing on the wastegate which is why I havent ordered it yet. Since my initial plans are to keep the power down around 300hp I think the 38mm would get the job done. But yea down the road when I want to push closer to 400 will be a bad time to get boost creep =/ I think if I do go with a 38mm I will be sure to mount it in a way that helps it flow(angled with manifold flow) to ensure I can max it out without creep.
Yep definitely going to reroute the radiator hoses, waiting until I nail down my hot side routing then I'll see whats in the way
Also since I"m going with a water cooled turbo, have to figure out that routing as well.For the intake I'm going to try to get at least 10" of straight 3.5" pipe on either side of the MAF. I've been flipping through all the posts dealing with the troubles the AP has tuning this kind of setup, so I'm going to do all I can to avoid issues.
Thanks for the oil feed suggestion. Do you know off hand what size and thread I'd need for that fitting ?
05-20-2009, 02:49 PM
#29
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Uhg, turns out my car isnt happy with my battery relocation. ABS and Skid warning lights are on on startup. Cant toggle Traction control on. And once I go down the road my power steering goes out and I get a warning light for that. 
Time to go through all my connections....
Edit- Well, I moved the battery back up front and still the same problem
Time to go through all my connections....Edit- Well, I moved the battery back up front and still the same problem
Last edited by Mawnee; 05-20-2009 at 03:39 PM.
05-20-2009, 09:20 PM
#30
For oil feed get a 3-way (2 female, 1 male) brass tee with 1/8" NTP ports. The male end will thread into the block on the oil pressure sensor side, the OEM oil press sensor will thread into the side female port, and then screw in a brass 1/8" NTP to -4an adapter into the top female port.
Then run a -4an ss oil feed hose to a -4an flare adapter with built in restrictor (0.35) into the turbo.
For cooling the CHRA you can use the throttle body coolant circuit. There is a port at the back right rear housing near the oil filter for the coolant and then the other end is near the thermostat. It's simply a 3/8" hose so just use a set of banjo bolts to 3/8" hose barbs for the coolant.
The top radiator hose will have to be moved or else your downpipe will have to be smaller or it will burn it. Moving the plastic AST is a good idea too.
Honestly running the charge piping is the most difficult, figuring out the angles and bends and pipe sizes, etc. Then, if that isn't hard enough, you need to do a straight section of giant 3.5" ID pipe for the MAF.
Then run a -4an ss oil feed hose to a -4an flare adapter with built in restrictor (0.35) into the turbo.
For cooling the CHRA you can use the throttle body coolant circuit. There is a port at the back right rear housing near the oil filter for the coolant and then the other end is near the thermostat. It's simply a 3/8" hose so just use a set of banjo bolts to 3/8" hose barbs for the coolant.
The top radiator hose will have to be moved or else your downpipe will have to be smaller or it will burn it. Moving the plastic AST is a good idea too.
Honestly running the charge piping is the most difficult, figuring out the angles and bends and pipe sizes, etc. Then, if that isn't hard enough, you need to do a straight section of giant 3.5" ID pipe for the MAF.
05-20-2009, 09:31 PM
#32
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For oil feed get a 3-way (2 female, 1 male) brass tee with 1/8" NTP ports. The male end will thread into the block on the oil pressure sensor side, the OEM oil press sensor will thread into the side female port, and then screw in a brass 1/8" NTP to -4an adapter into the top female port.
Then run a -4an ss oil feed hose to a -4an flare adapter with built in restrictor (0.35) into the turbo.
For cooling the CHRA you can use the throttle body coolant circuit. There is a port at the back right rear housing near the oil filter for the coolant and then the other end is near the thermostat. It's simply a 3/8" hose so just use a set of banjo bolts to 3/8" hose barbs for the coolant.
The top radiator hose will have to be moved or else your downpipe will have to be smaller or it will burn it. Moving the plastic AST is a good idea too.
Honestly running the charge piping is the most difficult, figuring out the angles and bends and pipe sizes, etc. Then, if that isn't hard enough, you need to do a straight section of giant 3.5" ID pipe for the MAF.
Then run a -4an ss oil feed hose to a -4an flare adapter with built in restrictor (0.35) into the turbo.
For cooling the CHRA you can use the throttle body coolant circuit. There is a port at the back right rear housing near the oil filter for the coolant and then the other end is near the thermostat. It's simply a 3/8" hose so just use a set of banjo bolts to 3/8" hose barbs for the coolant.
The top radiator hose will have to be moved or else your downpipe will have to be smaller or it will burn it. Moving the plastic AST is a good idea too.
Honestly running the charge piping is the most difficult, figuring out the angles and bends and pipe sizes, etc. Then, if that isn't hard enough, you need to do a straight section of giant 3.5" ID pipe for the MAF.
05-20-2009, 09:53 PM
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05-21-2009, 08:10 AM
#34
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Uhg, turns out my car isnt happy with my battery relocation. ABS and Skid warning lights are on on startup. Cant toggle Traction control on. And once I go down the road my power steering goes out and I get a warning light for that. Time to go through all my connections....
Edit- Well, I moved the battery back up front and still the same problem
Time to go through all my connections....Edit- Well, I moved the battery back up front and still the same problem
Key to On, but don't start the car
Rotate wheel completely CClockwise
Rotate wheel completely Clockwise
Center wheel
Key to Off
Turn on car, light should be gone and system should be working again
Thats from memory and my 8 is about 4 hours away with its manual so I can't check it for you atm
05-21-2009, 08:52 AM
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That happens everytime you disconnect power from your ECU I believe. If you look in the RX-8 Manual there is a procedure you have to follow to reactivate your TC. I believe it is:
Key to On, but don't start the car
Rotate wheel completely CClockwise
Rotate wheel completely Clockwise
Center wheel
Key to Off
Turn on car, light should be gone and system should be working again
Thats from memory and my 8 is about 4 hours away with its manual so I can't check it for you atm
Key to On, but don't start the car
Rotate wheel completely CClockwise
Rotate wheel completely Clockwise
Center wheel
Key to Off
Turn on car, light should be gone and system should be working again
Thats from memory and my 8 is about 4 hours away with its manual so I can't check it for you atm
Have a thread in tech help here :
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/abs-skid-control-power-steering-lights-174366/
05-21-2009, 03:50 PM
#36
You don't need a full 3.5" to the compressor, just a minimum 6" straight section of 3.5". You can transition and reduce after that.
My intake goes into a 3" filter, through a 3" pipe, transition to 3.5" aluminum 90-degree (ovaled out a little) to the K&N gen 1 MAF housing (3.5") to a 3.5-3" transition coupler that then necks down to a 2" pipe that twists and run thru the motor mount to the turbo. As you can tell it gets complicated but the MAF section is clean and straight.
That happens everytime you disconnect power from your ECU I believe. If you look in the RX-8 Manual there is a procedure you have to follow to reactivate your TC. I believe it is:
Key to On, but don't start the car
Rotate wheel completely CClockwise
Rotate wheel completely Clockwise
Center wheel
Key to Off
Turn on car, light should be gone and system should be working again
Thats from memory and my 8 is about 4 hours away with its manual so I can't check it for you atm
Key to On, but don't start the car
Rotate wheel completely CClockwise
Rotate wheel completely Clockwise
Center wheel
Key to Off
Turn on car, light should be gone and system should be working again
Thats from memory and my 8 is about 4 hours away with its manual so I can't check it for you atm
05-24-2009, 11:15 PM
#37
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A few more parts have arrived. All I'm missing now is my Turbo from Bryan, a wastegate and some various flanges and hoses.
Also bought another ECU to try to track down my electrical problems. If that doesnt solve it I'm gonna start running my own blasted electrical system for the car
*Reminder to self* Dont forget to reset your Accessport to stock before replacing the ECU!!
Also bought another ECU to try to track down my electrical problems. If that doesnt solve it I'm gonna start running my own blasted electrical system for the car
*Reminder to self* Dont forget to reset your Accessport to stock before replacing the ECU!!
05-25-2009, 09:52 AM
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05-25-2009, 08:27 PM
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05-27-2009, 09:35 PM
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Noob to the forum and the rotary world. I too am getting excited about a custom turbo setup, but I'm looking for help in the manifold section. I'm a seasoned tuner from back in my dsm days, took a 5yr vacation with an accord coupe for travel and work related junk, but now I'm less mobile and looking to mod me a 350ish HP car and this looks like a good one. This build however looks like it's already getting complicated for the builder, but I'm anxious to see how things pan out when the build begins. I'm shopping for my turbo essentials and for some reason can't find a turbo manifold sold separately..... Oh, '07 rx8 gt m6. The search for more info continues. Now to find the button to subscribe to this thread.
05-28-2009, 09:09 AM
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hmmm, figures as much. can find all the carbon fiber in the world for the 8, but ask for a simple even length tubular turbo manifold and u find something that looks like sewer distibution piping haning off the side of the engine lol... not even length at all, nor tubular, righteous or even gnarly.... i guess i dont want to be restricted to buying a "turbo kit" and only have a small range of turbos to use, then again a 100HP gain should be able to come from something as small as a t28 or a 16g.
whats the largest internally wastegated out these days? aside from custom built, is there a nice sized t3/t4 hybrid or .86 hot/.70ish compressor side t4 that might fit as a side mounted or mid mounted off the stock manifold with turbo flange adapter fitted?
being lazy and asking instead of doing the research myself due to me taking time to post to this thread in the middle of work lol...
Thanx for the input, i'm gonna subscribe to that turbo build thread by rotorocks. I'm liking how that is going and wondering if a "race header" fitted with a turbo flange might be a better option than stock for flow to the snail. That t4oe he;s working with has a huge turbine side and frankly think the 13b isnt enough to get that thing spooling quick enough. Then again i'm used to cranks cams and pistons displacement...
whats the largest internally wastegated out these days? aside from custom built, is there a nice sized t3/t4 hybrid or .86 hot/.70ish compressor side t4 that might fit as a side mounted or mid mounted off the stock manifold with turbo flange adapter fitted?
being lazy and asking instead of doing the research myself due to me taking time to post to this thread in the middle of work lol...
Thanx for the input, i'm gonna subscribe to that turbo build thread by rotorocks. I'm liking how that is going and wondering if a "race header" fitted with a turbo flange might be a better option than stock for flow to the snail. That t4oe he;s working with has a huge turbine side and frankly think the 13b isnt enough to get that thing spooling quick enough. Then again i'm used to cranks cams and pistons displacement...
Last edited by helldmgd; 05-28-2009 at 09:27 AM. Reason: correction of reference
05-28-2009, 10:39 PM
#46
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Ordered my AEM wideband. Also recieved my muffler, a Borla XR-1 3"in/out striaght through. Cant wait to hear how that sounds. I ran Borla stingers on my vette which was essentially two of those mufflers and it sounded fantastic. I'll be putting it in my midepipe somewhere.
My new ECU is due to arrive tomorrow. I'll get that installed over the weekend, hopefully it will solve my electrical problems.
My new ECU is due to arrive tomorrow. I'll get that installed over the weekend, hopefully it will solve my electrical problems.
05-29-2009, 11:47 AM
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Ordered my Wastegate. No worries of creep here 
Went ahead and bought the Synapse 50mm fully adjustable V-band Wastegate. Will be nice to be able to adjust the wastegate rather than picking a spring and hoping it runs close to the selected boost level.
Went ahead and bought the Synapse 50mm fully adjustable V-band Wastegate. Will be nice to be able to adjust the wastegate rather than picking a spring and hoping it runs close to the selected boost level.
05-30-2009, 10:07 PM
#49
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My new ECM arrived, turns out you have to get the dealer to reprogram it for you to remove the immobilizer. I'll call the dealer on monday to see which would be cheaper, them chasing down my issue with my current ECM or reflashing my new one so I can start the car with it.
All the parts for my Turbo build are here or on the way, with the exception of the actual turbo and a couple flanges and fittings. So I present to you a special picture for Bryan@BNR
^Thats my kitty and Bryans picture of the 60-1 trim. Thats right, all original turbo cat! You saw it here first!
I'll call the dealer on monday to see which would be cheaper, them chasing down my issue with my current ECM or reflashing my new one so I can start the car with it.All the parts for my Turbo build are here or on the way, with the exception of the actual turbo and a couple flanges and fittings. So I present to you a special picture for Bryan@BNR
^Thats my kitty and Bryans picture of the 60-1 trim. Thats right, all original turbo cat! You saw it here first!
06-03-2009, 12:07 PM
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My wastegate and wideband have arrived. Very glad I decided to go with the Synchronic WG, its hugely adjustable which is going to give me alot of room to nail down exactly how my boost comes on as well as the level. Really looking forward to playing with it.
Still havent figured out my electrical problem, but for now I'm going to ignore it. Who needs fancy ABS and power steering anyway. The lack of a speedometer is a bit of a problem, but on the bright side my car has been stuck at 23k miles for two weeks now
Only missing my Turbo, flanges and oil/water lines. Also some of my 2.5" and 2" bends haven't arrived yet. Once all that gets here I'll start on the fabrication.
Talked to Bryan today, he hopes to have my turbo ready on Friday. Thanks again Bryan!
Once I have all the parts here I'll take some pictures of my "complete kit" before fabrication.
Still havent figured out my electrical problem, but for now I'm going to ignore it. Who needs fancy ABS and power steering anyway. The lack of a speedometer is a bit of a problem, but on the bright side my car has been stuck at 23k miles for two weeks now
Only missing my Turbo, flanges and oil/water lines. Also some of my 2.5" and 2" bends haven't arrived yet. Once all that gets here I'll start on the fabrication.
Talked to Bryan today, he hopes to have my turbo ready on Friday. Thanks again Bryan!
Once I have all the parts here I'll take some pictures of my "complete kit" before fabrication.
Last edited by Mawnee; 06-03-2009 at 12:28 PM.