Jesse A's GReddy Turbo Build
If it wasn't fuel, your car would not run at all. My old lady put diesel in her Jetta and that thing didn't run for a second. Could it have been fuel mixed with some type of particulates that clogged your fuel filter causing the fuel pump to strain to move fuel through it?
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SPOOLN8
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Yeah I'm not sure, I got through the top quarter of my tank just fine again from the dealership, now it is starting to do it again. The mechanic said to try and get through as much of that tank as possible then refill. He's saying it's water in the fuel and is boiling as it goes through the pump causing the pressure drop. I'm going I go buy some fuel dryer and see if that helps at all. They said of it doesn't stop doing it after this tank imi can bring it. Ack and they will check out the fuel pump again for free

So Iam thinking of installing the stock Greddy Kit without the Boost controller.
1) Even without the boost controller you can still weld a fitting just before the TB (and after the BOV) ? connect the waste gate to the welded new fitting, instead of what MM proposed?
2) And the BOV vacum connect to the line where the VFAD was, post TB. Put a T fiiting in this line for the boost gauge?
would that summ it up? Would really appreciate your help
I am bit lost with the vacuum lines. 
So Iam thinking of installing the stock Greddy Kit without the Boost controller.
1) Even without the boost controller you can still weld a fitting just before the TB (and after the BOV) ? connect the waste gate to the welded new fitting, instead of what MM proposed?
2) And the BOV vacum connect to the line where the VFAD was, post TB. Put a T fiiting in this line for the boost gauge?
would that summ it up? Would really appreciate your help

So Iam thinking of installing the stock Greddy Kit without the Boost controller.
1) Even without the boost controller you can still weld a fitting just before the TB (and after the BOV) ? connect the waste gate to the welded new fitting, instead of what MM proposed?
2) And the BOV vacum connect to the line where the VFAD was, post TB. Put a T fiiting in this line for the boost gauge?
would that summ it up? Would really appreciate your help
2/yep
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SPOOLN8
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Yes to both. Teeing into that nipple that is Pre TB and Post BOV will allow your wastegate to account for pressure losses throughout the IC and piping.
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SPOOLN8
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So I got these babies installed today after a fender roll. Unfortunately it poured rain the entire day so I couldn't get some cleaner pics with better lighting
. I'm super happy with fitment, they are the exact flush I was looking for! The darker lighting in these photo's don't do them the justice they deserve, on a nicer day I will get some nice GoPro shots. The place I got to roll my fenders applied a coat of rust protection on the fenders after rolling them so I can't wash the car for a few days..








Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; Jun 4, 2017 at 11:16 AM.
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No for some reason my image hosting site won't upload some of the photos off of my phone, just waiting to get back to my computer and upload from there.
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I'm not sure what you mean, are you looking at the post I made from before I rolled the fenders?
Thanks man! Hoping I can get some higher quality photos with my GoPro once I get back to Edmonton tonight and not in underground parking.
Thanks man! Hoping I can get some higher quality photos with my GoPro once I get back to Edmonton tonight and not in underground parking.
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Haha, oh yeah I agree, the brightness of the car makes it hard for the camera to contrast the black wheels; they look waaaay darker in the photos than in real life. I'm hoping my GoPro footage will help that out; will upload some more pics tonight.
Good news though, with these 255's and the +30mm offset I had my stock wheels loaded up in the back seat/trunk to haul them to a buddy's garage for storage; and my wife and myself in the car taking some pretty hard corners and I wasn't able to hear any rubbing at all; quite pleased with that. Suspension is all within factory specs; may have to attempt 265's for the next set of rubbers but that will be very, very tight without a slight camber adjustment.
Good news though, with these 255's and the +30mm offset I had my stock wheels loaded up in the back seat/trunk to haul them to a buddy's garage for storage; and my wife and myself in the car taking some pretty hard corners and I wasn't able to hear any rubbing at all; quite pleased with that. Suspension is all within factory specs; may have to attempt 265's for the next set of rubbers but that will be very, very tight without a slight camber adjustment.
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; Jun 6, 2017 at 08:53 AM.

Just wanted to double check everything. I have my header with the turbo already installed on the car. so hopefully my car will finally see some boost soon.
As my kit is used, previous owners drilled into the outlet pipe MazdaManiac style. And also i have to get a new C-6 pipe as the one i have is completely messed up.
1) If Running without the boost controller. I connect one vacuum line to the Waste gate actuator and the other end goes to the fitting on the outlet MM Style. it runs straight? nothing else connects to it?
2) I look on the greddy instructions and the c-6 pipe before the TB has a nipple for a vacuum line ? anything should go in there? I will be getting a new c-6 Pipe so would i be needing this nipple? As you guys answered before . Vfad goes into the BOV, and put a T fitting for the boost gauge.
Am i missing anything else on the turbo related vacuum lines?
1) and 2) are not connected by vacuum, since i am planning to run no boost controller?
Would highly appreciate your comments.
trying not to pollute Jesse's thread ................https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-maj...uff-up-211884/
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SPOOLN8
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Just wanted to double check everything. I have my header with the turbo already installed on the car. so hopefully my car will finally see some boost soon.
As my kit is used, previous owners drilled into the outlet pipe MazdaManiac style. And also i have to get a new C-6 pipe as the one i have is completely messed up.
1) If Running without the boost controller. I connect one vacuum line to the Waste gate actuator and the other end goes to the fitting on the outlet MM Style. it runs straight? nothing else connects to it?
2) I look on the greddy instructions and the c-6 pipe before the TB has a nipple for a vacuum line ? anything should go in there? I will be getting a new c-6 Pipe so would i be needing this nipple? As you guys answered before . Vfad goes into the BOV, and put a T fitting for the boost gauge.
Am i missing anything else on the turbo related vacuum lines?
1) and 2) are not connected by vacuum, since i am planning to run no boost controller?
Would highly appreciate your comments.
1. Running with no boost controller you need only one of those nipples (the one on C6 or the one on turbo oulet) and run a line from Wastegate actuator to one of them. My recommendation is running the line from Wastegate actuator to C6 nipple so the actuator gets it's signal after all the losses through the IC and piping.
2. I believe jet air hose goes to this nipple on C6, that is where I Tee'd my Wastegate signal to before I had an EBC and had the turbo outlet nipple capped. See Brett's link and Greddy instructions.
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; Jun 21, 2017 at 12:17 PM.
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Few pics with the vented hood installed again (don't mind the bugs, pics were taken after a 400km road trip). Going to analyze coolant temps in comparison to the stock hood and see how big of a difference it makes. So far it is noticeable especially when stopped in traffic.




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SPOOLN8
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So a sewer manhole cover jumped out at me and did this... It's an authentic MS polyurethane bumper. Please tell me it's repairable??
There are no pieces missing just the crack.


There are no pieces missing just the crack.


WOW, Not many rock chips on that front end, that is a guarantee that car is parked from Nov to March when the road gravelling starts. LOL
It looks really good I'm going to see it in person sometime.
It looks really good I'm going to see it in person sometime.
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SPOOLN8
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Yeah it only has one or two noticeable chips; pretty much anything you can see in these pics are just bugs/a bit of tar not paint chips.
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; Oct 22, 2017 at 09:30 PM.




That's my only problem with black wheels.







