I need help for a future turbo install
05-24-2009, 03:32 PM
#1
I need help for a future turbo install
Just like the title says I need help for doing a turbo install in the very near future. Why do I want to do it myself you ask? It's a pride thing and I also want to know the workings of my kit so WHEN something goes wrong I can deal with it and not have to return to a shop. My knowlege for the typical greddy turbo setup is very very limited. My problem is not that i can't read believe I have read as much and as my of the turbo threads as i can. I just simply do not understand the words. I know it's a pathetic excuse but I'm a picture and hands on guy. So here's some of the questions I have and a short description of my setup.
1) The turbo kit itself will be the greddy hybrid with a BNR upgrade.
1. what needs to be fixed/added as per the usual greddy faults since i'm going with the BNR turbo.
2. can i get away with the stock greddy couplers for a while or will the new turbo blow them fast
3.what do I need to get inorder to use the stock oil pan taps fittings and all that
4. air pump wtf am i doing here
5. i'm sure more will come to mind later
2) I'll be using the synchronic BOV
1. I know i have to recirc but can i buy a recirc kit or is this totally a fab job.
2. where do I recirc to? I think it's the actual intake pipe before the turbo itself if so does it matter where it's placed in distance.
3. where do I attach the vaccum line for the bov since it's recirc or does that matter
3)AEM for intake with MAF for the AP
1. I think this one is pretty straight forward
2. if the greddy coupler need to be upgraded what about the fittings for the aem
4)greddy profec B spec II boost controller
1. how hard is this thing to program for an amature like me.
2. where do the lines for this thing go, plumming that is.
5) injectors upgrade
1. I want to use the stocks but get them reworked for more flow so where can this be done. I'm not intrested in paying $130 for the blues for a minor increase in overall flow when I can get the current injectors increased for less $
2. why not get p1 and p2 done instead of just p2 - i think these are the right ones or is it p2 and the secondary's i forget right now so let me know which ones have to be worked and which need to be done for just an extra bit of safety.
6) ignition already done with mazsport solution.
7) turbo plugs
1. what plugs should i use for 350ish hp there seems to be a bit of debate on the 7 plugs so what else. I'm lookin for a definite safe plug no it might or might nots bottom out or work well considering detonation
8)i have other questions i'm sure and will add them if I get help.
1) The turbo kit itself will be the greddy hybrid with a BNR upgrade.
1. what needs to be fixed/added as per the usual greddy faults since i'm going with the BNR turbo.
2. can i get away with the stock greddy couplers for a while or will the new turbo blow them fast
3.what do I need to get inorder to use the stock oil pan taps fittings and all that
4. air pump wtf am i doing here
5. i'm sure more will come to mind later
2) I'll be using the synchronic BOV
1. I know i have to recirc but can i buy a recirc kit or is this totally a fab job.
2. where do I recirc to? I think it's the actual intake pipe before the turbo itself if so does it matter where it's placed in distance.
3. where do I attach the vaccum line for the bov since it's recirc or does that matter
3)AEM for intake with MAF for the AP
1. I think this one is pretty straight forward
2. if the greddy coupler need to be upgraded what about the fittings for the aem
4)greddy profec B spec II boost controller
1. how hard is this thing to program for an amature like me.
2. where do the lines for this thing go, plumming that is.
5) injectors upgrade
1. I want to use the stocks but get them reworked for more flow so where can this be done. I'm not intrested in paying $130 for the blues for a minor increase in overall flow when I can get the current injectors increased for less $
2. why not get p1 and p2 done instead of just p2 - i think these are the right ones or is it p2 and the secondary's i forget right now so let me know which ones have to be worked and which need to be done for just an extra bit of safety.
6) ignition already done with mazsport solution.
7) turbo plugs
1. what plugs should i use for 350ish hp there seems to be a bit of debate on the 7 plugs so what else. I'm lookin for a definite safe plug no it might or might nots bottom out or work well considering detonation
8)i have other questions i'm sure and will add them if I get help.
Last edited by Mr.&Mrs.Magic; 05-24-2009 at 04:31 PM.
05-24-2009, 05:19 PM
#2
aye carumba ! That's a lot of questions .
did you read my "getting the most out of your Greddy thread - a lot of your questions are answered in there .
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-major-horsepower-upgrades-93/getting-most-out-your-greddy-turbo-without-breaking-bank-172542/
Don't be so sure the Mazsport ign will work - I have a blown motor due in part to that ign.
I'll try and answer some of the others later
did you read my "getting the most out of your Greddy thread - a lot of your questions are answered in there .
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-major-horsepower-upgrades-93/getting-most-out-your-greddy-turbo-without-breaking-bank-172542/
Don't be so sure the Mazsport ign will work - I have a blown motor due in part to that ign.
I'll try and answer some of the others later
Last edited by Brettus; 05-24-2009 at 05:27 PM.
05-24-2009, 05:34 PM
#3
Just like the title says I need help for doing a turbo install in the very near future. Why do I want to do it myself you ask? It's a pride thing and I also want to know the workings of my kit so WHEN something goes wrong I can deal with it and not have to return to a shop. My knowlege for the typical greddy turbo setup is very very limited. My problem is not that i can't read believe I have read as much and as my of the turbo threads as i can. I just simply do not understand the words. I know it's a pathetic excuse but I'm a picture and hands on guy. So here's some of the questions I have and a short description of my setup.
1) The turbo kit itself will be the greddy hybrid with a BNR upgrade.
1. what needs to be fixed/added as per the usual greddy faults since i'm going with the BNR turbo. (Just double check on the boost line gets tapped into the upgrade from BNR)
2. can i get away with the stock greddy couplers for a while or will the new turbo blow them fast (It will work right up until they don't.... should be ok for a while)
3.what do I need to get inorder to use the stock oil pan taps fittings and all that (the oil return line goes right into the stock pan)
4. air pump wtf am i doing here Lose it - and block off the downpipe connection5. i'm sure more will come to mind later
2) I'll be using the synchronic BOV
1. I know i have to recirc but can i buy a recirc kit or is this totally a fab job. (Have to weld a recirc fitting into the intake pipe as far from the MAF housing as you can.
2. where do I recirc to? I think it's the actual intake pipe before the turbo itself if so does it matter where it's placed in distance.
3. where do I attach the vaccum line for the bov since it's recirc or does that matter same as always
3)AEM for intake with MAF for the AP
1. I think this one is pretty straight forward
2. if the greddy coupler need to be upgraded what about the fittings for the aem
4)greddy profec B spec II boost controller
1. how hard is this thing to program for an amature like me.
2. where do the lines for this thing go, plumming that is.
Read Directions from Greddy - it shouldn't be hard.
5) injectors upgrade
1. I want to use the stocks but get them reworked for more flow so where can this be done. I'm not intrested in paying $130 for the blues for a minor increase in overall flow when I can get the current injectors increased for less $
2. why not get p1 and p2 done instead of just p2 - i think these are the right ones or is it p2 and the secondary's i forget right now so let me know which ones have to be worked and which need to be done for just an extra bit of safety.
Just makes tuning more fun. P1 and P2 are the ones
6) ignition already done with mazsport solution.
7) turbo plugs
1. what plugs should i use for 350ish hp there seems to be a bit of debate on the 7 plugs so what else. I'm lookin for a definite safe plug no it might or might nots bottom out or work well considering detonation - rx7 (one step colder)leading and rx8 trailing seems to work for me.
8)i have other questions i'm sure and will add them if I get help.
1) The turbo kit itself will be the greddy hybrid with a BNR upgrade.
1. what needs to be fixed/added as per the usual greddy faults since i'm going with the BNR turbo. (Just double check on the boost line gets tapped into the upgrade from BNR)
2. can i get away with the stock greddy couplers for a while or will the new turbo blow them fast (It will work right up until they don't.... should be ok for a while)
3.what do I need to get inorder to use the stock oil pan taps fittings and all that (the oil return line goes right into the stock pan)
4. air pump wtf am i doing here Lose it - and block off the downpipe connection5. i'm sure more will come to mind later
2) I'll be using the synchronic BOV
1. I know i have to recirc but can i buy a recirc kit or is this totally a fab job. (Have to weld a recirc fitting into the intake pipe as far from the MAF housing as you can.
2. where do I recirc to? I think it's the actual intake pipe before the turbo itself if so does it matter where it's placed in distance.
3. where do I attach the vaccum line for the bov since it's recirc or does that matter same as always
3)AEM for intake with MAF for the AP
1. I think this one is pretty straight forward
2. if the greddy coupler need to be upgraded what about the fittings for the aem
4)greddy profec B spec II boost controller
1. how hard is this thing to program for an amature like me.
2. where do the lines for this thing go, plumming that is.
Read Directions from Greddy - it shouldn't be hard.
5) injectors upgrade
1. I want to use the stocks but get them reworked for more flow so where can this be done. I'm not intrested in paying $130 for the blues for a minor increase in overall flow when I can get the current injectors increased for less $
2. why not get p1 and p2 done instead of just p2 - i think these are the right ones or is it p2 and the secondary's i forget right now so let me know which ones have to be worked and which need to be done for just an extra bit of safety.
Just makes tuning more fun. P1 and P2 are the ones
6) ignition already done with mazsport solution.
7) turbo plugs
1. what plugs should i use for 350ish hp there seems to be a bit of debate on the 7 plugs so what else. I'm lookin for a definite safe plug no it might or might nots bottom out or work well considering detonation - rx7 (one step colder)leading and rx8 trailing seems to work for me.
8)i have other questions i'm sure and will add them if I get help.
Quick pass.... seriously read the greddy directions for the BC and the turbo kit before you do much of anything.
05-24-2009, 05:35 PM
#4
brettus-actually i've read yours fairly closely and i haven't seen any answers there. rember i'm a picture person.
why do you think the mazsport ign caused your failure? dwell?
Kane-I figured the directions would do but in my reading of the plumbing for the boost controller it seemed like it was to go somewhere else other than what the directions stated when used with the greddy kit.
why do you think the mazsport ign caused your failure? dwell?
Kane-I figured the directions would do but in my reading of the plumbing for the boost controller it seemed like it was to go somewhere else other than what the directions stated when used with the greddy kit.
Last edited by Mr.&Mrs.Magic; 05-24-2009 at 05:45 PM.
05-24-2009, 05:50 PM
#6
This is going to take a while LOL:
1) The turbo kit itself will be the greddy hybrid with a BNR upgrade.
1. what needs to be fixed/added as per the usual greddy faults since i'm going with the BNR turbo. You still need to plumb the w/g actuator to a 1/8" NTP port as close to the compressor discharge as possible, all other faults are mostly EManage related, read the fixes thread.
2. can i get away with the stock greddy couplers for a while or will the new turbo blow them fast If they are new, use them, if used, get new ones
3.what do I need to get inorder to use the stock oil pan taps fittings and all that No tapping, the GReddy kit comes with a fitting that replaces the drain plug in the pan, just use a wrench and put it in and connect your oil return hose to it
4. air pump wtf am i doing here Remove it and everything connected to it except the fuel pump resistor pack and barometer pressure sensor (both are connected to the air pump bracket
5. i'm sure more will come to mind later
2) I'll be using the synchronic BOV
1. I know i have to recirc but can i buy a recirc kit or is this totally a fab job. You will need a 1" aluminum piece of pipe and have it welded to the main suction (the long pipe that your AEM intake will connect to)
2. where do I recirc to? I think it's the actual intake pipe before the turbo itself if so does it matter where it's placed in distance. Read above
3. where do I attach the vaccum line for the bov since it's recirc or does that matter Recirc doesn't matter. Hook it up to the VFAD nipple like everything else, best vacuum source
3)AEM for intake with MAF for the AP
1. I think this one is pretty straight forward
2. if the greddy coupler need to be upgraded what about the fittings for the aem No they are new why upgrade those?
4)greddy profec B spec II boost controller
1. how hard is this thing to program for an amature like me. Not going to lie, the GReddy stuff is VERY hard to program when you're a newb (or even skilled). The setup is very odd and hard to master.
2. where do the lines for this thing go, plumming that is. VFAD Nipple again
5) injectors upgrade
1. I want to use the stocks but get them reworked for more flow so where can this be done. I'm not intrested in paying $130 for the blues for a minor increase in overall flow when I can get the current injectors increased for less $ Check KGParts.com they can rebuild your P2s for $50 bucks each
2. why not get p1 and p2 done instead of just p2 - i think these are the right ones or is it p2 and the secondary's i forget right now so let me know which ones have to be worked and which need to be done for just an extra bit of safety. Why not? Larger your primaries the worse your idle gets, because your P1s are the only injectors that fire at idle. The P2s can be brought on whenever there is high load or rpm making them ideal to upgrade
6) ignition already done with mazsport solution. dump it
7) turbo plugs
1. what plugs should i use for 350ish hp there seems to be a bit of debate on the 7 plugs so what else. I'm lookin for a definite safe plug no it might or might nots bottom out or work well considering detonation 350ish???!! You haven't even installed your turbo yet and you want 350rwhp?? It's good to set goals but hell dude set this one lower. 350 is still hard to achieve and makes your motor more prone to detonation. TRUST ME, 280-300rwhp will feel SCARY fast. Remember, you're coming from like what, 190-rwhp MAX? Don't get hung up on this number. That being said you can do NGK BUR9EQP FD trialing plug in the leading hole, OEM stock trailing work fine
8)i have other questions i'm sure and will add them if I get help.[/QUOTE]
I would also recommend you do more reading, maybe see if you can find a locally turbo'ed 8 and get a better grasp of this stuff. I mean I was nervous installing my turbo but I didn't have this many questions...so try and do some more reasearch too (I do know what's what you're doing here tho, and I commend you on it).
Going turbo isn't something to be taken likely, it can be an expensive mistake
1) The turbo kit itself will be the greddy hybrid with a BNR upgrade.
1. what needs to be fixed/added as per the usual greddy faults since i'm going with the BNR turbo. You still need to plumb the w/g actuator to a 1/8" NTP port as close to the compressor discharge as possible, all other faults are mostly EManage related, read the fixes thread.
2. can i get away with the stock greddy couplers for a while or will the new turbo blow them fast If they are new, use them, if used, get new ones
3.what do I need to get inorder to use the stock oil pan taps fittings and all that No tapping, the GReddy kit comes with a fitting that replaces the drain plug in the pan, just use a wrench and put it in and connect your oil return hose to it
4. air pump wtf am i doing here Remove it and everything connected to it except the fuel pump resistor pack and barometer pressure sensor (both are connected to the air pump bracket
5. i'm sure more will come to mind later
2) I'll be using the synchronic BOV
1. I know i have to recirc but can i buy a recirc kit or is this totally a fab job. You will need a 1" aluminum piece of pipe and have it welded to the main suction (the long pipe that your AEM intake will connect to)
2. where do I recirc to? I think it's the actual intake pipe before the turbo itself if so does it matter where it's placed in distance. Read above
3. where do I attach the vaccum line for the bov since it's recirc or does that matter Recirc doesn't matter. Hook it up to the VFAD nipple like everything else, best vacuum source
3)AEM for intake with MAF for the AP
1. I think this one is pretty straight forward
2. if the greddy coupler need to be upgraded what about the fittings for the aem No they are new why upgrade those?
4)greddy profec B spec II boost controller
1. how hard is this thing to program for an amature like me. Not going to lie, the GReddy stuff is VERY hard to program when you're a newb (or even skilled). The setup is very odd and hard to master.
2. where do the lines for this thing go, plumming that is. VFAD Nipple again
5) injectors upgrade
1. I want to use the stocks but get them reworked for more flow so where can this be done. I'm not intrested in paying $130 for the blues for a minor increase in overall flow when I can get the current injectors increased for less $ Check KGParts.com they can rebuild your P2s for $50 bucks each
2. why not get p1 and p2 done instead of just p2 - i think these are the right ones or is it p2 and the secondary's i forget right now so let me know which ones have to be worked and which need to be done for just an extra bit of safety. Why not? Larger your primaries the worse your idle gets, because your P1s are the only injectors that fire at idle. The P2s can be brought on whenever there is high load or rpm making them ideal to upgrade
6) ignition already done with mazsport solution. dump it
7) turbo plugs
1. what plugs should i use for 350ish hp there seems to be a bit of debate on the 7 plugs so what else. I'm lookin for a definite safe plug no it might or might nots bottom out or work well considering detonation 350ish???!! You haven't even installed your turbo yet and you want 350rwhp?? It's good to set goals but hell dude set this one lower. 350 is still hard to achieve and makes your motor more prone to detonation. TRUST ME, 280-300rwhp will feel SCARY fast. Remember, you're coming from like what, 190-rwhp MAX? Don't get hung up on this number. That being said you can do NGK BUR9EQP FD trialing plug in the leading hole, OEM stock trailing work fine
8)i have other questions i'm sure and will add them if I get help.[/QUOTE]
I would also recommend you do more reading, maybe see if you can find a locally turbo'ed 8 and get a better grasp of this stuff. I mean I was nervous installing my turbo but I didn't have this many questions...so try and do some more reasearch too (I do know what's what you're doing here tho, and I commend you on it).
Going turbo isn't something to be taken likely, it can be an expensive mistake
05-24-2009, 06:02 PM
#7
/\ yeah - 350hp is just a number . You will be surprised how quick this thing is at way less hp than that .....
Good idea to do it in steps so you can see what else needs doing to the car as you go . Also the driver needs major aclimatisation if you don't want to end up in the ditch ....
Good idea to do it in steps so you can see what else needs doing to the car as you go . Also the driver needs major aclimatisation if you don't want to end up in the ditch ....
05-24-2009, 06:04 PM
#8
damn thanks chickenwafer and 350 will not fill that fast to me i come from turbo bikes and a 400+hp rx7 a buddy of mine had so i know what power is trust me.
btw 350 is the end result maybe 6 mth after install without bumps.
more questions to you
BC and BOV both go to the vfad under the TB right? T fitting? i've read several times the bov goes to the vfad but why do i always see a vacuum line running along the fire wall or the strut brace.
btw 350 is the end result maybe 6 mth after install without bumps.
more questions to you
BC and BOV both go to the vfad under the TB right? T fitting? i've read several times the bov goes to the vfad but why do i always see a vacuum line running along the fire wall or the strut brace.
05-24-2009, 06:05 PM
#9
Exactly. My car as been settled right around 300-rwhp now for the past 10 months or so and I only run at higher boost a few times.....it's hard to watch gauges and the road when you're at 120mph in seconds
Magic- you will need a t-fitting. The VFAD has multiple sources that will be hooked up to it.
I also came from bikes (Had a GSXR-750, and a helped a friend build a 450-rwhp turbo Busa) so I know fast. But this is different. First it's a car, and it's yours! Watching gauges and such at high speed is difficult, trust me. The car will be outta control.
I just want to emphasize learn to drive the first first then gradually turn the boost up.
Magic- you will need a t-fitting. The VFAD has multiple sources that will be hooked up to it.
I also came from bikes (Had a GSXR-750, and a helped a friend build a 450-rwhp turbo Busa) so I know fast. But this is different. First it's a car, and it's yours! Watching gauges and such at high speed is difficult, trust me. The car will be outta control.
I just want to emphasize learn to drive the first first then gradually turn the boost up.
Last edited by chickenwafer; 05-24-2009 at 06:07 PM.
05-24-2009, 06:32 PM
#11
ok got the BC and BOV figued out. the vacuum tube running the fire wall is from the BC which connects via a Y and T fitting then to the UIM on mysql cars . That's whats had me confused all this time.
Last edited by Mr.&Mrs.Magic; 05-24-2009 at 06:48 PM.
05-24-2009, 06:34 PM
#12
Turbos blow!!
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To extend the answers above by Brettus and Chicken about the 350rwhp, I am running about 8psi around town with a nice tune from MM. I have yet to dyno but I feel I am somewhere in the 270rwhp range. I can tell you my car is quick and has the respect of a lot of higher hp cars that I hang out with. 350 is nice but try 270-280 first and I know you will be very happy and able to wait on that dream number.
05-24-2009, 06:37 PM
#13
To extend the answers above by Brettus and Chicken about the 350rwhp, I am running about 8psi around town with a nice tune from MM. I have yet to dyno but I feel I am somewhere in the 270rwhp range. I can tell you my car is quick and has the respect of a lot of higher hp cars that I hang out with. 350 is nice but try 270-280 first and I know you will be very happy and able to wait on that dream number.
look guys I in no way think i'm strapping this together and saying where the hell is my 350
Last edited by Mr.&Mrs.Magic; 05-24-2009 at 06:41 PM.
05-24-2009, 06:41 PM
#14
Turbos blow!!
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Get ya a tune that is good at about 7psi and run with that or run just the 5psi out of the box. I did for a while and it was still nice. I am running the same tune I have had for the last year. v1.0. My AFRs are solid and the car pulls like snot. Don't be so hung up on you needing a new tune for very small changes in your car.
05-24-2009, 06:43 PM
#15
Turbos blow!!
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That is what my engine bay looks like. Cut some of that hose on the recirc fitting if you want. I got annoyed by mine after a while.
05-24-2009, 06:50 PM
#16
where can this hose be purchased-bov recirc the blue one
Brettus care to call me a simple man and show me a pic of the location you refer to for the BC line in your fixes for surge
Brettus care to call me a simple man and show me a pic of the location you refer to for the BC line in your fixes for surge
Last edited by Mr.&Mrs.Magic; 05-24-2009 at 06:57 PM.
05-26-2009, 09:40 PM
#19
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Probably a stupid question but Im not into popping my engine so Im gonna ask anyway. Im in process of doing my install as we speak and Im kinda confused as to where all the hoses that I disconnected from the air box go? I see the hose yall are talking about that is on the throttle body for the VFAD that my BOV will be going too, even though it wont be recircd. But what about those 3 hoses that were on top of the accordian hose. Im going to be using the AEM intake. Do I just put them back on there or get rid of them? I was looking at Konigs install pics and he had capped all 3 nipples on the intake. Where do they go?? Lol!! Do I run a manual boost controller like an electric one?? Plug it into the nipple on the UIM and adjust off of that?? Thanks!
05-26-2009, 09:51 PM
#20
Probably a stupid question but Im not into popping my engine so Im gonna ask anyway. Im in process of doing my install as we speak and Im kinda confused as to where all the hoses that I disconnected from the air box go? I see the hose yall are talking about that is on the throttle body for the VFAD that my BOV will be going too, even though it wont be recircd. But what about those 3 hoses that were on top of the accordian hose. Im going to be using the AEM intake. Do I just put them back on there or get rid of them? I was looking at Konigs install pics and he had capped all 3 nipples on the intake. Where do they go?? Lol!! Do I run a manual boost controller like an electric one?? Plug it into the nipple on the UIM and adjust off of that?? Thanks!
05-26-2009, 09:59 PM
#21
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just answered same ? over here ... https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...2&postcount=19
05-27-2009, 04:42 PM
#23
Probably a stupid question but Im not into popping my engine so Im gonna ask anyway. Im in process of doing my install as we speak and Im kinda confused as to where all the hoses that I disconnected from the air box go? I see the hose yall are talking about that is on the throttle body for the VFAD that my BOV will be going too, even though it wont be recircd. But what about those 3 hoses that were on top of the accordian hose. Im going to be using the AEM intake. Do I just put them back on there or get rid of them? I was looking at Konigs install pics and he had capped all 3 nipples on the intake. Where do they go?? Lol!! Do I run a manual boost controller like an electric one?? Plug it into the nipple on the UIM and adjust off of that?? Thanks!
The hose that runs to the back of the engine under the UIM to the OMP spider block is your OMP air bleed, this needs to be hooked up to your intake like on the GReddy pipe, if you connect to your AEM you will need to extend the hose.
The hose that runs to a metal hard pipe to the lower bottom passenger side of the alternator in front of the UIM is the Jet Air hose and it needs to see vacuum and boost. The cheap way to do it is to connect to the intake pipe and put a check valve in it, but it's easier and better to drill and tap in a 1/8" NTP Hose barb fitting into your throttle body pipe and connect the hose to that hose barb.
05-27-2009, 04:54 PM
#24
The hose that runs to a metal hard pipe to the lower bottom passenger side of the alternator in front of the UIM is the Jet Air hose and it needs to see vacuum and boost. The cheap way to do it is to connect to the intake pipe and put a check valve in it, but it's easier and better to drill and tap in a 1/8" NTP Hose barb fitting into your throttle body pipe and connect the hose to that hose barb.
If your throttle plate is partially closed the inlet manifold will be under vacuum and your charge tube before the the throttle plate will be pressurised . You would then get pressurised air coming through the jet air outlet . What effect that is going to have I'm not sure but i can't imagine it being a good thing ....
Last edited by Brettus; 05-27-2009 at 04:56 PM.
05-27-2009, 05:11 PM
#25
If you have boost in your charge tube you have boost in your manifold, unless you are letting off the throttle, but then your BOV would vent....
Even then it just runs into the primaries and into the housing.
I do know my car runs better with it setup this way than with the check valve...call me crazy
Even then it just runs into the primaries and into the housing.
I do know my car runs better with it setup this way than with the check valve...call me crazy