Hey guys got a question for you all. Has anyone pushed the renesis motor n/a?
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Hey guys got a question for you all. Has anyone pushed the renesis motor n/a?
all the places i look, i see everyone using forced induction... which i love, but i also like the smoothness and feel of the n/a rotary. i want to tune the rotary but all i hear is that you can't get anything big. could the motor push 300-350 to the crank with no forced induction?
thanks.
thanks.
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i doubt ur gonna be able to get those kinda of numbers but u deff could get an inprovment witout goin turbo... just do some reasearch i mean i just put a intake and i can tell theres a pretty good improvment already
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yah, i just have a drop in k&n... got it for free.
i feel some improvement. i just found a thread that talks about n/a. im gunna read it put already the frist couple of post say that make n/a 220. which isn't bad, for a 1.3.
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20b n/a would be just heaven!
one of the reason why i want to know, im tired of people talking **** on the renesis. i know mazda built a great engine, and i want to prove to a lot of people that the engine can be tuned to high performance engine.
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You may get close to 300 with the 16x. The 20b will exceed 300 n/a. I think the Rolex cup car is around 420. May be wrong though
Last edited by Cattywampus; 08-24-2008 at 05:22 PM.
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all the places i look, i see everyone using forced induction... which i love, but i also like the smoothness and feel of the n/a rotary. i want to tune the rotary but all i hear is that you can't get anything big. could the motor push 300-350 to the crank with no forced induction?
thanks.
thanks.
I like N/A much better for some reason too. Some people just dont.
An intake might land you 5hp? You have a sensitive butt my friend
#11
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N/A is great if you can get the power you want out of it. However, the renesis has a peak potential of somewhere around the 260 HP (at the crank) mark. The only way to make more power on this engine is to force more air down it's gullet I'm afraid.
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I agree with everyone here, no way you'll see that kind of hp on an N/A Reni.
turbo it and you'll be all set.
turbo it and you'll be all set.
#14
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Well, if you reworked the intake and exhaust track, switched to custom lightweight higher compression rotors, upgraded most of your bearings, removed all the emissions equipment, and tuned to get your redline up to like 12k and raise your VE peak above 7k, you could conceivably do 300+ hp at the e-shaft. You would just need to find a way to make 160 ft lbs at 10,000 rpms. Then again, at that point, if you ever tried to drive the car in traffic, you'd probably shoot yourself.
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peripheral intake and exhaust plus a tune, (and built intakes/exhausts specifically for peak hp) might get you close to 300 IMO - but it really won't be a renesis anymore when you're done.
the rolex cars are closer to 450 i think (with a 20b PP).
FI lets you get the power without major (internal) engine mods. (even though some might be helpful)
[edit: oh hey- posts before me saying similar things when i refreshed. I didn't explicitly think of a substantial redline increase, even less practical than my suggestions?]
the rolex cars are closer to 450 i think (with a 20b PP).
FI lets you get the power without major (internal) engine mods. (even though some might be helpful)
[edit: oh hey- posts before me saying similar things when i refreshed. I didn't explicitly think of a substantial redline increase, even less practical than my suggestions?]
#16
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With all of those mods it wouldn't really be a renesis anymore
I think the most practical way to significantly increase HP N/A without throwing away everything but the rotor housings would be to look at increased red line, and what it would take to sustain a reasonable amount of torque at those higher RPMs. You'd have a big challenge on your hands in terms of the intake, and I don't think much can be done to improve the flow through the intake or exhaust ports themselves.
I think the most practical way to significantly increase HP N/A without throwing away everything but the rotor housings would be to look at increased red line, and what it would take to sustain a reasonable amount of torque at those higher RPMs. You'd have a big challenge on your hands in terms of the intake, and I don't think much can be done to improve the flow through the intake or exhaust ports themselves.
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^^^ and have a video camera handy
#19
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only if you pushed uphill
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Speedsource made 425 hp on their 3 rotor car while BK Motorsports was making 450 hp on the Courage. The reason for this was very good and purposely done. BK was running a closer ratio transmission and a higher redline than the Speedsource car. Speedsource purposely ran longer intake runners as a result. While they made less peak horsepower and at a slightly lower rpm limit, their powerband was broader and more suited to their gearing. Both engines were developed at the same time and place as each other.
There's far more to making power than just the engine itself. It's what you intend to do with it that really affects what it can and does do. There have been large bridgeported drag race engines that have topped 375 hp at over 10,500 rpm but their powerbands were VERY peaky.
There's far more to making power than just the engine itself. It's what you intend to do with it that really affects what it can and does do. There have been large bridgeported drag race engines that have topped 375 hp at over 10,500 rpm but their powerbands were VERY peaky.
#21
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Ray if your powerband keeps going up then you may actually want to think about fabbing up a new upper intake manifold that is longer to bring the peak back down. You should increase average power as well. "Should" being the key word.
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Did you port it yourself? I've heard rather disappointing results from early porting attempts on the renesis... that doesn't mean those people knew what they were doing though
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RG porting special